KFIS20XVMS3 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.

The replacement part provided was not an exact replacement. The part did not include a water reservoir. Instead, it had a 25 ft long water line that ran from the water filter to the water connection behind the fridge. The long water line was difficult to deal with, did not fit easily into the space provided for the water reservoir, and is coiled up behind my fridge. The part did work, but I'm unhappy with not having the resevoir.

Removed old gasket by carefully pulling it out of the retaining groove. Installed the new gasket starting the corners first and then seating the upper and lower straight portion gently in the retainer groove. Total time for installation was at most 5 minutes. After a week no ice or frost has been found along the bottom of door or freezer. Note: the new gasket came in a small box for shipping purposes and the new gasket was twisted in a v for this purpose. Upon arrival, I laid it out flat on table overnight so it could cool to room temperature and straighten. I would recomend this procedure for a perfect installation.

Unlug refrig or turn off refrig from its control panel On/OFF switch.
For ease of work remove freezer shelve directly below the ice maker. Remove four screws from the bottom of the ice maker assembly, three that secure the ice maker and the other that holds a plastice shroud in place over the ice maker's power plug.
The ice maker is now ready to be removed; it will slide forward by pushing up on left and right side of the ice maker's mounting slide rails. Once the ice maker is moved forward it is easier to disconnect its power plug (depress a locking tab on the side of the connector and pull connector apart and remove ice maker assembly.
Remove and replace motor module by removing three screws and and replace with new unit.
Reverse ice maker removal proceure for installation. Once installation is completed turn on Power to Refrig, Ice making should begin after a few hours.

Took out the old and installed the new.. The fit was perfect.

Once I realized the High voltage Board was bad I ordered the new High voltage board from Parts Select, the part was in stock and was delivered to my house in two days, I opened the box, and the instructions were very clear how to install the new high voltage board and program the board with the code for my refrigerator. There are also videos on You Tube on how to program the code on the refrigerator in case you have difficulty. In all, the problem was fixed and the refrigerator was up and running. Thank You Parts Select.

Replaced filter and the water started to flow like the Nile River and the ice maker came back to life.

The troubleshooting time takes about 20 to 30 minutes. After checking out the solenoid (valve water), the water line, and the electronic board (emitter/receiver) are working fine. The only thing left is the ice module. I called Partselect and talked to a sale rep to make sure I get the right part, and the lady was so helpful by sendind the picture of the part so I can review before ordering it. I received the part in 3 days ( normal shipping) and did the folowings:
1) Unplugged the power cord from refrigerator.
2) Removed the ice module by removed a 1/4" screw from under the right side of the icemaker that retains the icemaker and a “U” plastic clamp and then pull out the whole unit it from the track.
3) Unplugged the cable connected to the ice maker.
4) Using the phillips screw driver to remove the 3 screws. Carefully pulled out the ice module and installed the new ice module.
5) Put the ice maker back to the freezer, plug the cable back to the ice maker and put the clamp and tighten the nut.
6) Plugged the power cable back to the wall.

The first ice I got in an hour and a full bucket of ice in less than 24 hours. I spent less than $80 for the whole thing. Thank you so much Partselect for the great service and the stories posted, it really helped me to get it done.

1. Remove all drawers {3}, shelves {glass 1}, shelf support {1}. 2. Remove two {2} screws from End Cap. 3. Carefully remove End Cap and drawer temperature control part on the back wall keeping them aligned as installed. The part on the back wall swings out so that the tab on the left end of the piece may be withdrawn from the securing slot (hole). The two parts should be carefully removed while keeping the two parts at a right angle the way they are installed. The reason for this caution follows. 4. On the back side of both parts are plastic pieces that, I believe, can be easily broken if you are not aware. The pieces are connected together at the right angle. They are the control arms for the temperature control -- on right side End Cap only -- the left side doesn't have them or the rear part on the back wall. 5. The pieces must be disconnected and removed. You must examine and ponder how they are held in place and hooked together in order to disconnect and remove them without damaging them. The same advice is applicable to reinstalling the pieces in the new part -- End Cap. 6. After reassembled and keeping the two parts at a right angle, insert the tab on the left end of the back wall part into the slot (hole) and swing the two parts back into position. 7. Replace the screws. 8. Done, reinstall the shelf, shelf support, and the drawers. NOTE: I ordered the two screws but they were not needed.

First, make sure you have the correct part. I had trouble with mine, at first, until I realized that I had received the wrong part... it was same shape but larger. To begin, remove both fruit/vegetable drawers. Remove deli drawer. Remove deli drawer glass panel with both supports. Remove 3, 1/4" hex screws that attach end-cap. Disengage temp control slide and arm from end-cap by carefully moving parts in the direction where they will disengage. Remove temp control slide from end-cap. Now that end-cap is out, remove 2 screws that hold metal drawer slide to end-cap. Attach drawer slide to new end-cap. Attach temp contol slide and connect the plastic arm. Attach end-cap to refrigerator. Replace glass shelf, supports and drawers. Done.

Replaced the left side endcap for the drawer. Three screws and it popped out. Easy process once I actually looked at it. Drawer cover now works as designed. Replaced inline water filter. Not problem there.

Replacing the part itself was easy, but getting the spring in position before installing the Yoke/Pad was a bit difficult. I had to insert the spring on the Yoke/Pad tab, then retract the spring (which was difficult) prior to putting the Yoke/Pad into place on the dispenser assembly. This requires force and would be very easy to bend or break the Yoke/Pad tab. I'm not sure if there is some trick to retract the spring and keep it retracted during the Yoke/Pad installation.

The repair was very simple, you just remove the existing part that is held in place by two holes in the lid and insert the new lid. very easy.

Unscrew filter. Screw on filter bypass

Since it wasn't possible to squeeze the seal in between the door groove and the bar which closes the gap between the two doors, I cut the seal side in half and snaked it in from the top and the bottom. Since the cut is behind the bar when the door is closed there is no compromise in getting a good seal around the door. Note there was no apparent way to easily remove this bar.