KFIS27CXMS5 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!

Changed the ice and Water filter, works great...

Turn off the water to the unit. Disconnect the plug on wiring from the old valve.
They always recommend you disconnect the electric (unplug) the unit while doing this work.
Disconnect the water lines from the old valve by pushing the water line slightly into the flange on the valve, it releases the line from the flange.
Hold the flange rim against the valve seat and pull, you may have to jiggle the water line a little while pulling to remove it.
Push the water lines into the ports on the new valve, turn on the water and check for leaks.
If no leaks, plug the wire connections onto the new valve, reconnect it to the unit and turn the power back on.

Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.

Popped out broken switch with blunt flat edged instrument. Disconnected switch from unit . Plugged new piece in and reinserted into side panel of refrigerator. Very easy.

Followed directions on filter unit

I received the wrong part - had to pay returnin shipped and restock fee. Lost out on dealing with this company. Went to Whirlpool site and got correct light for my refrigerator

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!

The installation video for condenser fan motor helped a lot to know how to disconnect the old fan motor and connect the new one. So easy just know how to remove and put back the fan gently, observe carefully where is the center and the connector position; 15 min after everything was done and the unit works well to date.

Just plugged it in

The Condenser Fan Motor was already removed due to searching for the problem. The new fan motor looked different from the original but I felt very comfortable that Part Select had sent me the new part showing original part number changing numbers over the years. Simply placed the fan blades onto the new motor lined up 2 of the holes placed screws and tightened then plugged the wire ribbon into the Condensor Fan Motor, plugged in the Refridgerator and it worked beautifully.

The instruction video on the Part Select Web Site made it so incredibly easy to install. Installation took under 3 minutes!

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

I watched a YouTube video real quick to see what I had to do and got to the job at hand. I removed the old gasket by pulling it out of the track and bring it around the front of the drawer. I wiped down the entire area where the new one would go and started inserting it into the groove, making sure it went in completely in on the bottom. I was done in less than 15 minutes. Super easy! This fixed the issue and the freezer door closes fully.

Checked Video online. Had to remove the 2 snap on track/gear covers. Pry out the gear with screwdriver and the gear bearing unit. Align the flat side of the bearing unit and snap in. Position the cut teeth on the gear to match original and snap into the bearing. Insert the connecting rod into the long shaft gear and then push back into the short shaft gear. The video said to remove the drawer front but I did not and don't see that it necessary.

Switched the drain out using the video tutorial
Fixed the problem
Have had no more drain issues