KSRA22KKWH01 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!

Removed the top bracket (3 5/16 size hexhead bolts)
Lifted door free of the bottom cam and hinge socket
(after, of course removing the items from the door shelves!)
removed one bolt holding the lower came to the cabinet.
Pried the cam loose, replaced with new and re-bolted
removed one bolt from cam on door - unable to remove cam until I removed the guard bracket (two more bolts)
worked the plastic cam from the door by twisting it and pulling the socket from it's hole.
Slipped the new cam into the socket hole, aligned the bolt hole and bolted it tight.
Aligned the top cam to the bottom cam as I replaced the door. Re-attached the top bracket.
All bolts were 5/16
Door now works perfectly again.

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

Fit in perfectly. Slid out the old one, replaced with the new one. Very easy. Very satisfied with the transaction.

The refrigerator would make loud sounds humming sounds periodically. The bearings were going out on the evaporator motor. Emptied the freezer side of fridge. Unplugged unit. Took shroud off (6 screws). Removed the three wire clips. Pulled fan off shaft. Carefully pushed plastic strap to remove motor. Replaced with new motor. Carefully attached strap to hold motor. This seems very fragile so be very carefull to attach properly and not break. Reverse the rest and done in less than 15 minutes. 30 minutes cleaning the fridge.

It took 2 minutes to search and find the correct part for half the price of the original part that I had inquired about.

I was first reluctant to start poking around, as I am limited in my handyman skills. However, not wanting to spend a lot of money, I decided to get my hands dirty. I quickly identifed the problem being the run capacitor and overload protector. I then identified the parts I needed to order using partselect.com and looked at user stories. I was confident this would work. Ordered the parts (YOU NEED TO ORDER TWO PARTS!) and began replacement. However, one of the prongs that the part connects to, broke in half. I was able to fashion a copper sheath to serve a conductor and to my amazement it worked. Had that hiccup not occurred, this would have been a mighty easy fix. Everything about this site helped and defintely gave me a "Tim the Toolman Taylor" boost of confidence.

Searched my issue on the internet then chose part select to see if bi-metal thermostat was available and it was so I ordered part which was under $30.00 incl. shipping. I then went to You Tube to watch how to replace the part but most importantly to find out where it was located and degree of difficulty. Replacement was rather simple and it fixed our 22 year old fridge. I must add that when I looked up the part it also told you what percent of the time that particular item actually fixed the problem based on others experience. I thought that was neat info. as I felt better about ordering something that may or may not fix my problem. Thank you,

The compressor immediately started when I plugged the refrigerator back in. Around 24 hours later the freezer compartment was at 0 degrees, and the refrigerator was at 35 degrees.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

I followed the instructions of other people on this website. First, removing the plastic guard that covered the wires leading to the diffuser. Then I removed the screw that held in the diffuser. I should have done this next part first--it would have ben easier! Anyway, next I removed the plastic cover at the back-top of the freezer. It looks like it guides air into the freezer. After that, there is another plastic air guide, that connects into the diffuser. I had to pull this out. There was no screw. I did use a flat head to wedge in, and pop it out. Then I just popped out the old diffuser and disconnected the wires. To install the new diffuser I just reversed all these directions. I took about 30 minutes. If I had had more experience with this sort of thing, I could have done it in 10. My fridge is now perfect! I used a thermometer to test.

Removed old switch and installed new - but did not solve problem

I added an icemaker kit. Everything I needed was in the kit. The refrigerator was presetup for an icemaker it was just never added. The only problem I had was that the holes for attaching the water solenoid were not pre drilled so I had to drill them myself and use sheet metal screws. The icemaker is working great.

Unplug, then on the freezer side, remove the drawers, then remove the screws holding the sheet metal cover, remove the rails (for the drawer) that interfere with removing the sheet metal cover. pull the wires off the motor. There is a big plastic piece that holds a small plastic piece that holds the motor. Remove the plastic piece that holds the motor/fan (you might be able to swap the motor by removing the little plastic piece that holds the motor, or you can remove the bigger piece and then remove the small piece that holds the motor). Pull the fan blade off (to reuse), swap the motor. NOTE - the new motor wire terminals may be on the opposite side of the motor vs. the old motor - that is not a problem - there is plenty of room for the wires. After the motor is installed put the fan blade back on, reinstall the removed plastic pieces in the back of the refrigerator. Now, I'd suggest a quick test. Make sure the new motor works and the fan blows before you button it up. Once you know it works, power it off, and put the sheet metal cover back on, reinstall the basket brackets, put the baskets back in place, close the door, and turn it back on.

1. Put pieces of wood under door to support it.
2. Unscrew three screws holding door hinge.
3. Disconnect water line.
4. Unscrew screw holding each cam. One to door and one to hinge.
5 Replace cams.
6. Retrieve plate with threaded holes behind frame that the hinge attaches to.
7. Use thin philips screwdriver through the hinge bracket, shim, frame and screw plate to align it for the other two screws.
8. Replace all three hinge screws.
9. Connect water line fitting.
10. Remove wood for door support.
11. Check door for smooth movement and strong pressure when closed.