KBRS22KGBT13 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

I followed the instructions for the installation of the icemaker and its connection to the house water supply.

I sealed the freezer with cardboard and duck tape and kept the door attached (I recycled all the cardboard after I was done). I didn't need to use the hair dryer to remove kinks from the gasket because I couldn't get to the repair for a week and the gasket was in good shape after I took it out of the box.

I almost installed the gasket without removing the plastic door liner (more the twenty small hex screws) but I'm glad I decided to remove it after all. When I removed the plastic liner half of the fiberglass insulation was consumed by a huge block of ice. All these years my freezer had been working harder and wasting more energy than necessary.

I removed all the insulation and replaced it with spray insulation which took longer to allow for the spray foam to cure. The reason I knew what I was doing was because all of you took the time to post your installation experiences. Thank you....

By the way, if you decide to remove the plastic liner for my model, it really helps if someone holds the liner while you attach the first few hex screws. Thank you wife. Also, I'm so glad I had a can of spray insulation in the garage so my wife wouldn't say "how many trips to Home Depot is going to take to finish the job"

Watch video. Very helpful, followed instructions went in fairly easy. Gasket deformed, used hair dryer could not get to set straight. WAIST of TIME and MONEY. I wouldn’t recommended buying one of these twisted gaskets, buy a new fridge which is what I’m doing tomorrow.

This is easy. Remove lower vent in front of frig to change timer. Unplug and put new one in. . . . 10 Min. To change the thermostat remove food, take off back panel, defrost ice with hairdryer and locate thermostat (to the right above coil) remove old thermostat from connectors and replace with new. One connector needs to be spliced cause it does not match. No problem just use old connector and splice and seal with shrink tubing to prevent moisture from connection. In jersey repair guy charges you 100. 00 Bucks to just walk in the door. . . Forget that. Works fine

First let me say the part arrived much faster than I anticipated! I was able to use the box (cardboard) the part came in to cover the freezer while the door was being worked on. I did not remove the door, but did remove all the screws that held the door inner part that the gasket fits around. Like another person wrote, my insulation in the door was frozen. I took that out and put new insulation in. I then fit the gasket around it and then screwed it back on. I have an electric screw driver and without the bit, it fit these hex screws perfectly, so I was able to unscrew and screw quickly.

Unfortunately, I realized the cause for the dripping was due to a faulty defrost thermostat. I'm guessing that part will arrive tomorrow. We did need a new gasket, however, so I don't regret it.

Took the ice maker out with three screws hving turned water off and unplugging fridge. Put a new one back in with the three screws. plugged fridge back in and turned water on. All done and everthing worked fine.

Ronald Stonis

Once I removed the contents of the freezer I found ice on the inside back panel Removing the panel I found ice on the cooling coils and the defrost thermostat was bulged out where the wires were attached.I removed the panel with the nutdriver as shown in the video. I removed the ice maker connection and removed the panel from the freezer section. I then had to manually defrost the area with a heat gun. The ice had actually covered the Defrost Thermostat - which was bulging where the wires were attached.. The defrosting took the majority of the repair time - the actual Defrost Thermostat replacement only took about 20 minutes once I could get to it. I spliced the wire with a crimping tool as discussed in the video. Once all was defrosted I reversed the operation.Overall, a very simple part change out. The video was extremely helpful - if nothing else to mentally prepare me for the task.

Talked to a bud who does this kind of work and he walked me thru the simple job. Also watched a you tube segment. Very easy job. Took off the front kick vent panel. Unscrewed the metal holder and unplugged old part, plugged new part in and put panel back on. Turned on unit and it is working like a charm. Got my fingers crossed just in case.

Removed the lower door, 4 screws, lay on flat surface. Working gently pull the seal back to get to the screws holding the seal. Save the screws to put the new seal back on.You may need someone to help hold the door when remounting it.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

I slid the bar into the end caps, then slid the end caps into the slots on the door. No tools were required. My fridge is old, and I was very pleased that I was able to find the part.

I removed the back cover in the freezer section by removing six screws. The entire coil, the thermostat and the lines were all iced over. I used a hairdryer to defrost everything. I removed the thermostat by uncoupling the connectors and unclipping it from the coil tubing. I found the thermostat was bulging and deformed. I jumped out the thermostat using an insulated clip lead. I taped it so it would not short to anything. I plugged the unit in, turned the unit to "1" and advanced the defrost timer to defrost. I could hear the water hissing on the coil. I ordered the thermostat. It arrived in 3 days. The new one had a different terminal. I cut off the matching one from the old part and used a scotch-lok to make the connection to the new part. I slapped it in, dressed the wires and replaced the cover. I noticed that when I advanced the timer after replacing the thermostat, it did not immediately come on. The thermostat has an operating temperature window. I checked it several days later and found no frost. Everything works great.

snapped the new ones on the aluminum bar and inserted into the freezer

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Water Intake valve for icemaker in Amana refrigerator
We found that the icemaker was not getting water due to a faulty intake valve. The original valve had a plastic coupling on the vinyl tube leaving the valve. The replacement valve had a quick connect coupling. Replacing the valve with the new part gave a significant leak. After discussion and viewing YouTube directions multiple times, the part was returned; and a new part was sent. It also leaked.
After searching, a video was found that dealt with the no-fail quick connect. The problem was not in the quick connect but in the tube from our refrigerator which had a spring inside the last five inches of the tube. This aided the prevention of a leak when the original plastic coupling had been installed.
SOLUTION: Removing the part of the tube with the spring using a clean cut allowed the quick connect to work preventing the leak. This needs to be mentioned in the how-to videos to save others having a problem. Also, these instructions with the part would be helpful.

The longer than usual repair times shown above were the result of the spring insert in the plastic water tube of the refrigerator. Nowhere in the how-to instructions were references made of either an insert in the tube or quick connect procedures.

We were well pleased with the support rendered by the PartSelect staff.