KTRS21KDBL04 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Once I determined easier access to the fan motor, I removed the three fan motor screws that held the motor on place. After removing the motor I remove the fan blade assembly held by one nut and reattached to the new motor. I then reattached the new motor with 3 new screws which were provide and reattached the power cord with the cord clip and began reassembling the icemaker housing, then moved the unit back in place which was installed under counter. I could do this repair in less than 45 minutes now that I have done it once. I saved several hundred $ from the original estimate and the parts were delivered in 2 days after I ordered online. This is definitely a DIY project!!

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

Removed items and defrosted freezer. I then removed metal shelves, ice maker, bottom sliding tray and false bottom, freezer back, and light bulb with wire track. Cut wires to defrost thermostat and spliced in new thermostat. Reassembled shelves, back, etc., in reverse order. Old thermostat tested "open" in hot and cold water with Ohm meter tester.

First I entered my model #, then picked the symptom, then went with the odds when presented with the likely suspects. The run capacitor, and bi-metal defrost timer had the highest % of guilt. Most of the time was spent defrosting the coils with a hair dryer. The run capacitor took 3 minutes to remove and replace. I snipped out the old defrost timer and used butt connectors to wire up the new one. The old timer flunked the continuity test when placed in salted ice water. The freezer/fridge runs like new, for about $66. The run capacitor was probably ok but I left the new one in, being too lazy to send it back. "Part Select" was a great partner in helping to fix my machine.

We followed de video that made it very clear to us. Thank you! It's been working great since...

1. Unplug the refrigerator. 2. Remove the back cover at the bottom of the refrigerator. 3. Remove the two screws holding the vertical black bracket the fan is mounted to. This allows the bracket to move easily. The bracket does not have to be removed. 4. Removed the four screws holding the fan bracket to the vertical bracket. 5. Unplug the power connector from the fan motor. 6. Remove the entire fan bracket assembly from the refrigerator. 7. Remove the 4 screws holding the fan motor to the fan motor bracket and unmount the fan motor. 8. Remove the nut holding the fan blade to the fan motor and remove the fan blade. 9. Reverse the process, mounting the fan blade to the new motor, screw the motor to the bracket, screw the bracket to the vertical bracket, screw the vertical bracket to the refrigerator and plug the power connector back into the motor. I did not have to use any of the extra mounting hardware or electrical hardware provided with the kit. It might be a good idea to purchase a new fan blade with the motor kit, the fan blade can get pretty grungy. I cleaned the fan blade with some degreaser before remounting it.

First I called my friend Robert in Kissimmee, Fl to have an idea regarding the problem because I had never serviced a fridge before. Then he suggested that I check with PartSelect on the Web. Then PartSelect repair videos showed me everything. I followed step-by-step but the problem persisted. I finally realized that the airflow conduit between the freezer and the fridge was clogged with ice. I then proceeded to remove the ice underneath the coil on the aluminum cover and Bingo. The problem was in fact the ice. Well, I only spent $33 dollars for the non-necessary Bimetal Defrost Thermostat. I learned a great deal from that repair.

After watching the video it was a snap. Defrosting the freezer took the longest time. I used a hair dryer to melt the ice. Once the freezer compartment was clear of ice the removal and installation were a step by step procedure which the video showed in detail. It's been about a week since I installed the bimetal defrost thermostat and it seems to be working like new. Sure glad I researched this problem on the internet instead of calling a very expensive repairman! Thanks partselect. Com!!!

Pulled up part select video on u-tube. Followed instructions on dissambly of top freezer and found condensor freezing up blocking air from refrigerator. Checked timer to make sure it was good. Next checked continuity on heater to make sure it was good. Last checked bi-metal thermostat for continuity while cold. Found Bi-metal part to be defective (also rubber in top of was popped up which is a sign of a bad part). Simply ordered new part from Part Select, received in 2 days and replaced Bi-metal and melted ice with hair dryer and reassembled freezer. While waiting on part you can still use refrigerator by melting ice so air can get to refrigerator. I put a towel in bottom of freezer to catch water. Greg W. in Ga.

Looked up the refrigerator model number, found parts break down and ordered wheel assy...thought it was the wrong but wheel size was right...read the instructions (good thing) and found out you had to slide entire bottom panel out 1/2 inch to access a hidden pin...did as the instructions said, slid out the bottom panel, found pin as advertised, removed pin, broken part fell out, replaced the wheel assembly, repinned, slid the bottom panel in (a bit more harder than getting it out), replaced all screws and was completed in about 40 -50 minutes. Good thing it came with instructions!!

This problem can be caused by 3 different part failures. Timer, thermostat or heater. After contacting a service repair shop I was told that most often it is the thermostat. The cost of the repair would be at least $115. To much for an old refer. So I ordered the part from Partselect for $33. and put it in myself. Step1 cut the power to the refer. Step2 remove ice maker if you have one. Step3 remove base and back panels in the freezer. Step4 the coils were badly frozen so I used a hair dryer to thaw it out. Would have waited a long time for it to thaw out otherwise. Step5 The thermostat is clipped on to copper tubing next to the coils. Unclip it and cut the wires close to the thermostat. Strip the wires and wire nut the new thermostat. Clip it back on to the copper tubing. Put it all back together and start it up. It's over a week know and no problems. Note: We have whirlpool appliances that are over 16 years old. I have repaired the washer, oven, and now the refer with parts from Partselect. Good company. Always received the correct part within about 3 days from ordering. If you are able to do the work yourself you can save big bucks and keep your appliances running longer. Good Luck

Pulled refrigerator away fom wall. Removed cardboard cover at back bottom to reveal fan motor.The space available to remove the motor from the bracket is very limited, so smaller hands will be a plus! Tried to get a nut wrench on motor but there was hardly enough room. Finally was able to use a socket set to remove bolts. I would suggest you spray a solvent on the motor mount bolts and seat them in the new motor first. It was near to impossible to get them started in the mount, without seating them first. The electrical clip that connects to the motor fit on the new motor, so I did not have to splice any wiring. This made the job a little easier. Finally, replaced cardboard cover and moved refrigerator back against the wall. .

I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.

followed the video instruction from part select web site

Over a period of weeks I watched my fridge grand to a halt. It was...saddening. I felt helpless, there was nothing I could do and I wasn't prepared to pull in a repairman. Upon it's departure from being affective (broke) I made up my mind to purchase a new one!! Flash-forward five minutes n the internet ...motivator by high costs, I altered my thinking and visited You Tube for a fix-it video. After a quick search I came across a clip that took me to the heart of the problem. It was THAT easy. Wow!! I followed the instructions and quickly learned the failure had to do with a small, light weight fan that's role was to pull heat from the condenser--it had ceased to work. While waiting for the part, I let a small fan blow on the condenser to dissipate the heat. The fridge roared to life!! Like a charm!! When the new fan body arrived I placed the blade from the old fan on it and installed it (the fan did not come with bolts and the holes were not threaded) using sheet metal screws. It immediately came started performing again and has been doing a superb job ever since. I easily saved $800 in costs going this route!!