KBFC42FSS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Replaced the cap no tools needed

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the On/Off button at the top to turn off internal power. Open the freezer door and move the icemaker switch on the right side freezer wall to "off".

To get access to the icemaker, first remove a hinged plastic door that mounts to the ceiling of the freezer compartment by two hex screws. Remove the screws and the door so you can work with the icemaker without interference.

The icemaker assembly will slide out once the wireharness has been disconnected. To disconnet the wire harness, a while plastic shield has to be removed from the right side of the icemaker, just behind the water inlet.
Locate a hex screw on the bottom right rear of the icemaker and remove it with a socket wrench. Then the plastic cover can be pulled off.

Slide the icemaker out enough so you can get your fingers on the plug connector. It takes some effort to pull the plug connectors apart. Once unplugged the whole icemaker assembly can be removed.

The motor module is located on the left side and is protected by a white cover. This cover is not attached so it can be pulled off to reveal the motor module.

Remove 3 screws from the outside of the motor module and the module can be pulled out of the housing. Insert the new motor module. The module turns the shaft of the ice srapper arm. the shaft has a D shape which mates with the hole in the motor module so you may have to roatate the scrapper arm until the shaft shape matches up with the hole shape in the motor module.

Once the motor module is seated, replace the 3 screws and push the white cover back on.

Position the icemaker so you can reconnect the wireharness plug connectors. Once connected you can push the icemaker asembly back into the grooves of shelf rail. Reattach the while protector shield which covers up the wire harness plugs.

Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the power button to turn internal power back on. Move the icemaker switch on the right wall of the freezer to the "on" position and close the door.

The icemaker should start making ice within 2 hours.

The repair was simple.

I first did a diagnosis of the optical cuircuits and found them good. The tray heated up and when resetting the moor controller, the water cyccled to fill the tray so the only other thing it could be was the motor controller.

removed the service door for the ice maker
I removed the wire protectore screw and shroud
pulled the icemaker unit out and unplugged the unit
removed the motor controller end cap
unscrewed 3 screws holding the motor controller
removed and replaced the motor controller. ensured that all wire harness connector poiints were solid
reverse the above instructions and in 5 hours I was getting ice again!

$90 turned out to be a savings from the $250 it would have cost to have someone come out and look at the fridge.

I highly recommend to anyone who can read and use a screwdriver to perform this repair if you have diagnosed this as the root of your problem!

Repair was real easy, I had to remove several screws in the bottom of the icemaker module housing. The unit slide out with no problem there was a wire assembly that hat to be disconnected but this did not present a problem. The old module came out real easy after removing 4 screws and the replacement was not a problem to but in.

i followed the online instructions on how to take the icemaker apart, which were very easy to follow. Once the new part arrived it plugged right in and a few steps later it was back together. within the hour we were hearing the sound of ice dropping into the tray. thanks for all the help this definitely saved us money and hopefully we get many more years out of this icemaker.

Originally I took the module off and found that a small plastic part had broken. Both pieces were still there, so I super glued them together and reassembled the unit. It worked great for a couple months. I realized it needed a more permanent fix, so I found the model # and looked up the part. That was very easy on your website. I ordered the part expecting it to take 4-7 days. It was at my house in two days! 15 minutes later I was makin' ice, and makin' my wife happy. Thank you for an all around great experience. I'll definitely buy from you again.

I removed the icemaker. One screw at the bottom and then unplug the electric. Remove the old motor from the face that has 3 screws holding it. Put the new motor in. A very simple job. I now have a full ice bin by the next morning.

The holder is held in place with two screws. Once you have it unscrewed you can snap the old sockets out and replace them.

Ordered new sockets and presto, the lights work again.
They just snapped into the holder and the holder went up with two screws.
HINT: I did take a photo of the 4 electrical connectors AND labeled each one with a Sharpie 1, 2, 3, and 4 from left to right.

Removed old filter and tried to install new filter according to instructions. Was unable to rotate new filter so I could not complete repair.

Removed the one screw holding the unit in place in the freezer and pulled it out. Removed the 3 screws that hold the motor in place on the ice maker. Replaced the motor unit, replaced the 3 screws, and re-installed the ice maker.
Sears wanted $170 for labor for the 10 minute job, plus $130 for the part, which I got here for $65.

Replaced the control of the ice maker assembly.

The bearing & cup assembly was broken and the gears in the drive assy were stripped. Unfortunately I couldn't find anywhere to buy the gears without buying the entire motor assy with the gear box already on it. Cost was up to $85 with shipping but at least it now works fine.

To repair: a 1/4 nut driver will take off screw below ice maker and all you need to do is loosen the 2 screws above the ice maker then push it upward slightly and it will slide off the top 2 screws. Then pull the power connector off from behind the ice maker at the side of the refridge. Then pull straight out and it will slide off the water fill tube. Now with unit out of refridge I took the cover off the front of the ice maker and removed the 3 philip screws. I then pulled the motor/gear assy off from the chassis of the ice maker. I then had to remove the 2 philip screws on the chassis (under the motor/gear assy) to remove the cube maker/element from the chassis. This allowed me to remove the rotating cube spatula bar to replace the filler cup/bearing assy. Then I reinstalled the spatula bar and the 2 philip scews on the chassis to the cube maker/element assy. I then installed the new motor/gear assy to the chassis and installed the 3 remaining philip screws. Put the cover back on the ice maker and inserted assy back into the refridge by first reattaching the power connector and then sliding backward onto the water fill tube and then slipping over the top of the 2 top screws on the refridge. Then I installed the screw below the ice maker and tightened all 3. Presto - repair done in 30 minutes and perfect cubes were spitting out within the hour.

Used u-tube video to review steps in making repair. Wires shorter than described but after looking at replacement sockets difference was clear.

I just removed the unit and replaced the mold/'heater with the new one and re-installed. It was very easy and didn't have to turn off the refer. or empty the frozen food.
However , there were not instruction that came with the mold/heater unit. I had no problem but other do-in-uselfers may need some basic instructons
Jim