KBRS22KGBL4 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

There were no instructions with the new gasket which made the job difficult. After great difficulty I called an appliance store and learned that the gasket should be soaked for several minutes in very hot water to make it pliable and easier to install. Also, the plastic insert that the gasket fits into should only be loosened and not removed when inserting the gasket. Lastly, the door should be removed and placed on a table to allow leverage to be applied. Installing it while still on the door is almost impossible.

carefully

1- Remove food from freezer and store in ice chest
2- Turn off refrigerator
3- Remove freezer drawers, 2 drawers, no fastener
4- Remove freezer slide out drawer front , 2 screws
5- Remove ice cube tray holder, 2 screws
6- De-ice back panel with hair dryer / blower
7- Remove back panel in freezer, 8 screws
8- Defrost refrig coil with hair dryer / blower
9- Unplug Bimetal Thermostat, 2 wires, orang / brn
10- Remove Bimetal Thermostat from coil, 1 clip
11- Install new Bimetal Thermostat
12- Re-assemble, reverse order

Started with internet searches then began with removal of wall plate at back of freezer, pulled power cord first. Found evaporator coil completely frozen over.Went back to internet and searched possible causes. It seemed to me that the auto defrost system may not be functioning properly so I considered possible causes. Defrost thermostat, defrost timer, or possibility heater itself. I chose to go with simple stuff first and thought heater would have a better relibility characteristic. Went to Parts select got part numbers and was able to find part locations on the appliance. So far so good, and knock on wood! Thanks Parts select I spent $50 bucks instead of $1000.

Watched the video you posted with the part and getting the gasket to fit like he did was not as easy as he made it look. Took me a few hours and before I was done the lights went out from a power failure but I was able to finish because the drill was battery operated. I may have saved money doing it myself but not time.

Removed refrigerator door. Removed 3 screws. Replaced old ice maker with new ice maker. Put in 3 screws. Ice maker working great.

Removed the lower door, 4 screws, lay on flat surface. Working gently pull the seal back to get to the screws holding the seal. Save the screws to put the new seal back on.You may need someone to help hold the door when remounting it.

Removed the cover to the timer, 2 nut screws. Easy. Then emptied freezer, and took off back plate with nut driver. Replaced thermostat. 2 wire plugs that were easy to complete. Left back off, let thermostat normalize temperature, then switched to defrost setting. Worked like a charm.

remove ice maker vent and back piece. Unclip defrost thermostat and unplug. Plug new thermostat in and clip to element, reattach back piece, vent and ice maker. Is a tight fit getting icemaker out, there are 3 screws 2 on top and one on bottom.

Used information on internet as to how to check and repair unit. Due to high cost to have repair come to let me know it was broken, being handy with repairs, I took it upon myself to check the timer and therm, ordered the parts from this site , got them within 5 days, took about 40 minutes to use simple tools to remove and replace the timer and therm, used hair dryer to defrost coil unit and turned unit on, lit has been working well since then, about 2 weeks since repair. Saved lots on repair/labor cost and parts cost. Well satisfied, will use this product company again. I WAS AMAZED HOW EASY REPAIR WAS, WIFE HAPPY NOW!

It was easy after it was apparent that the run capacitor was plugged into the compressor. This was determined from a parts diagram of the actual model refrigerator. The part was the same but the location on the video was wrong. A large screwdriver was used to unplug the capacitor from the compressor. The temperature range of the refrigerator is still too wide but it's colder.

I replaced the run capacitor wich is located near the compressor, i first turned power off to fridge than remuved capacitor checked for continuity and the capacitor was the problem thanks

Our refrigerator was no longer emitting cold air and clicking every 5 minutes in what sounded like a "starter" click and then a few minutes later an ending/"shutoff" click. Nothing else would happen between the clicks and we could still hear the freezer fan running in the freezer.

Frequent clicks meant that the starter relay was broken and that the condenser was not failing to start thus failing to cool.

I found very useful videos showing this process on Youtube but here are instructions:

Unplug the refrigerator and open up the back panel on the bottom. The condenser is a black round metal sphere in the center. To the right is the condenser coil which is a flat coil. Attached on the left side of the condenser is a plastic casing with wires coming out from the bottom, that is the relay housing.

Pull the plastic casing off, it is held by a metal clamp. Underneath the plastic casing is the relay. it is attached to the condenser with a straight long pin.

Pull the relay straight out, away from the condenser. You may use a flathead for leverage but I used some elbow grease and slowly wiggled it out.

Look at the relay. For my Admiral, the relay has a little headpiece that sits on the relay and connects to the pin. Otherwise you will have pulled out the relay piece and there will be wires connecting to terminals on the relay.

Remove the wires connecting to the terminals, noting which wires connect to which terminals. Take a picture on your phone if you need to. You may want to use pliers to maintain the terminal connectors on the wires and it may take some elbow grease.

Once all the wires are disconnected from the old relay, discard the old relay. You will know if it's faulty if you shake it and it sounds like it's full of broken glass. A new relay will not make that sound.

Connect the wire connectors to the new relay in the correct terminals.

Reconnect the new relay to the condenser by pushing it back onto the pin all the way.

Replace the plastic cover with the metal clamp.

Clean the dust off the condenser coils while you have the chance.

Replace the back panel and plug in the refrigerator. You should not hear any more clicking and you should feel the air from the freezer become cooler pretty quickly.

Took the ice maker out with three screws hving turned water off and unplugging fridge. Put a new one back in with the three screws. plugged fridge back in and turned water on. All done and everthing worked fine.

Ronald Stonis

Once I removed the contents of the freezer I found ice on the inside back panel Removing the panel I found ice on the cooling coils and the defrost thermostat was bulged out where the wires were attached.I removed the panel with the nutdriver as shown in the video. I removed the ice maker connection and removed the panel from the freezer section. I then had to manually defrost the area with a heat gun. The ice had actually covered the Defrost Thermostat - which was bulging where the wires were attached.. The defrosting took the majority of the repair time - the actual Defrost Thermostat replacement only took about 20 minutes once I could get to it. I spliced the wire with a crimping tool as discussed in the video. Once all was defrosted I reversed the operation.Overall, a very simple part change out. The video was extremely helpful - if nothing else to mentally prepare me for the task.