KBRS22KGBT3 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Started with internet searches then began with removal of wall plate at back of freezer, pulled power cord first. Found evaporator coil completely frozen over.Went back to internet and searched possible causes. It seemed to me that the auto defrost system may not be functioning properly so I considered possible causes. Defrost thermostat, defrost timer, or possibility heater itself. I chose to go with simple stuff first and thought heater would have a better relibility characteristic. Went to Parts select got part numbers and was able to find part locations on the appliance. So far so good, and knock on wood! Thanks Parts select I spent $50 bucks instead of $1000.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires... Put a thermometer in a glass of water & now runs at 38 degrees.

I have a side by side Amana fridge about 12 years old. One day I noticed everything was not cold anymore. I checked the temp with my infrared thermometer and it was about 70 in the top of the fridge, 40-50 in the bottom, and freezer was the same! So after pulling out the two baskets in the bottom of the freezer and the side rails that hold the baskets, I used a 1/4 nut driver to remove the back lower panel. After looking at the electrical schematic on the back of the fridge, I jumpered around the defrost thermostat, a little cylinder with two wires coming out of it. Bingo, the fan turned on. Well after a few days of running fine with it jumpered my new one arrived. I never really tested my old one with a meter so I did that and it tested fine, so I plugged the old one back in and it worked fine for a few days. Then one day I noticed that fan wasn't running again so I just put the new one in. I had to cut one of the connectors off as it was female instead of male and crimp cap it together, but besides that it went fine. So after connecting it I noticed the fan motor was buzzing but not spinning. I wiggled wires around and determined the connector going into the fan motor had to be a certain way to make the connection. I unplugged it, it wasn't corroded or anything but if pulled down on, it would not make connection. So pulling up on the connector proved that it would make good connection, so a ziptie keeping the wires tight in the up direction proved to be the solution. I'm pretty sure my old defrost thermostat was not the problem. So that's my story. Hope it helped.

Used information on internet as to how to check and repair unit. Due to high cost to have repair come to let me know it was broken, being handy with repairs, I took it upon myself to check the timer and therm, ordered the parts from this site , got them within 5 days, took about 40 minutes to use simple tools to remove and replace the timer and therm, used hair dryer to defrost coil unit and turned unit on, lit has been working well since then, about 2 weeks since repair. Saved lots on repair/labor cost and parts cost. Well satisfied, will use this product company again. I WAS AMAZED HOW EASY REPAIR WAS, WIFE HAPPY NOW!

It was easy after it was apparent that the run capacitor was plugged into the compressor. This was determined from a parts diagram of the actual model refrigerator. The part was the same but the location on the video was wrong. A large screwdriver was used to unplug the capacitor from the compressor. The temperature range of the refrigerator is still too wide but it's colder.

I replaced the run capacitor wich is located near the compressor, i first turned power off to fridge than remuved capacitor checked for continuity and the capacitor was the problem thanks

Water Intake valve for icemaker in Amana refrigerator
We found that the icemaker was not getting water due to a faulty intake valve. The original valve had a plastic coupling on the vinyl tube leaving the valve. The replacement valve had a quick connect coupling. Replacing the valve with the new part gave a significant leak. After discussion and viewing YouTube directions multiple times, the part was returned; and a new part was sent. It also leaked.
After searching, a video was found that dealt with the no-fail quick connect. The problem was not in the quick connect but in the tube from our refrigerator which had a spring inside the last five inches of the tube. This aided the prevention of a leak when the original plastic coupling had been installed.
SOLUTION: Removing the part of the tube with the spring using a clean cut allowed the quick connect to work preventing the leak. This needs to be mentioned in the how-to videos to save others having a problem. Also, these instructions with the part would be helpful.

The longer than usual repair times shown above were the result of the spring insert in the plastic water tube of the refrigerator. Nowhere in the how-to instructions were references made of either an insert in the tube or quick connect procedures.

We were well pleased with the support rendered by the PartSelect staff.

I sealed the freezer with cardboard and duck tape and kept the door attached (I recycled all the cardboard after I was done). I didn't need to use the hair dryer to remove kinks from the gasket because I couldn't get to the repair for a week and the gasket was in good shape after I took it out of the box.

I almost installed the gasket without removing the plastic door liner (more the twenty small hex screws) but I'm glad I decided to remove it after all. When I removed the plastic liner half of the fiberglass insulation was consumed by a huge block of ice. All these years my freezer had been working harder and wasting more energy than necessary.

I removed all the insulation and replaced it with spray insulation which took longer to allow for the spray foam to cure. The reason I knew what I was doing was because all of you took the time to post your installation experiences. Thank you....

By the way, if you decide to remove the plastic liner for my model, it really helps if someone holds the liner while you attach the first few hex screws. Thank you wife. Also, I'm so glad I had a can of spray insulation in the garage so my wife wouldn't say "how many trips to Home Depot is going to take to finish the job"

Watched the video you posted with the part and getting the gasket to fit like he did was not as easy as he made it look. Took me a few hours and before I was done the lights went out from a power failure but I was able to finish because the drill was battery operated. I may have saved money doing it myself but not time.

Removed refrigerator door. Removed 3 screws. Replaced old ice maker with new ice maker. Put in 3 screws. Ice maker working great.

I removed the back cover in the freezer section by removing six screws. The entire coil, the thermostat and the lines were all iced over. I used a hairdryer to defrost everything. I removed the thermostat by uncoupling the connectors and unclipping it from the coil tubing. I found the thermostat was bulging and deformed. I jumped out the thermostat using an insulated clip lead. I taped it so it would not short to anything. I plugged the unit in, turned the unit to "1" and advanced the defrost timer to defrost. I could hear the water hissing on the coil. I ordered the thermostat. It arrived in 3 days. The new one had a different terminal. I cut off the matching one from the old part and used a scotch-lok to make the connection to the new part. I slapped it in, dressed the wires and replaced the cover. I noticed that when I advanced the timer after replacing the thermostat, it did not immediately come on. The thermostat has an operating temperature window. I checked it several days later and found no frost. Everything works great.

snapped the new ones on the aluminum bar and inserted into the freezer

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Needed ice maker bucket for extra fridge. Part came the next day, and worked perfectly.

Once I removed the contents of the freezer I found ice on the inside back panel Removing the panel I found ice on the cooling coils and the defrost thermostat was bulged out where the wires were attached.I removed the panel with the nutdriver as shown in the video. I removed the ice maker connection and removed the panel from the freezer section. I then had to manually defrost the area with a heat gun. The ice had actually covered the Defrost Thermostat - which was bulging where the wires were attached.. The defrosting took the majority of the repair time - the actual Defrost Thermostat replacement only took about 20 minutes once I could get to it. I spliced the wire with a crimping tool as discussed in the video. Once all was defrosted I reversed the operation.Overall, a very simple part change out. The video was extremely helpful - if nothing else to mentally prepare me for the task.