KBRS22KGBT3 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

remove parts that were not need installed water valve , ice maker unit and hooked up water supply tested and it works fine. got the parts really quick Thank You

I was told to order the run capacitor and the technician thought it would repair the refrigerator; but it did not. The appliance technician had to take the run capacitor off and install what he called a "hard start" and the refrigerator is operating right now.

The refrig seemed warm so I checked the temp of some liquid with a thermometer. Readings were above 60 degrees and I knew food would spoil soon. I vacuumed the dog fur off the cooling coils underneath the machine to see if that would help. Nope. I realized cold air from the freezer was not reaching the refrig. The fan was working but no cold air was coming out. I figured a blockage either in the air duct from the refrig or in the return duct to the freezer. I didn’t see any blockage in the refrig section. I took everything out of the freezer and removed the back wall. The cooling coils were completely frozen solid with frost. Being a frost free machine, I knew there were heaters that were controlled by a timer that melted this frost away periodically and that this cycle was no longer working. I found a schematic on the web, maybe your site, and educated myself on the heater circuit. The circuit consisted of a timer, thermostat near the coils, and a cal rod heater all wired in series. The timer was easy to get to and being a mechanical device I figured it must be the culprit. I ordered one online. I checked its operation and it worked fine. Realizing time was short, I hot wired the cal rod around the thermostat and rotated the timer to its heat position. The frost melted quickly and I put the freezer back together and ordered a thermostat. I canceled the timer order. When it arrived, I installed the new thermostat and it has worked fine for the past month. A little colder than usual as I don’t yet have the settings back to where they were. I have checked the operation of the old thermostat. It’s supposed to close at 30 degrees and open at 45. I have done a continuity check on it by putting it in the freezer, letting it cool down, take it out, let it warm up and it seems to work fine. So I have doubts if I really solved the problem. Wire connections were tight and not corroded. Maybe the timer was hung up on debris that I freed by cycling it. I don’t think this is the end of the story.

removed cover in back of freezer and observed that defrost cycle seemed to happen too often. In comparing the existing part # with the factory part, I determined that possibly the wrong part was installed previously. (it had a 6 hr cooling cycle with a 45 min defrost...spec said I should be 8 hr cool & 20 min defrost) I did research on applianceguru.com... well worth the 5 bucks! I ordered a timer & thermostat & purchased a special refrigerator brush to clean the coils on the bottom. Cleaned the coils, replaced the parts in about 15 minutes and WA-LA! the freezer started getting really cold, but the fridge wouldn't get below 55. but it FELT cold! I swapped thermometers with the freezer & found out the thermometer was faulty!!! I now have the cool control backed down to 5/7 & freezer to 6/7. temps are freeze 0 and cool 40. works better than since we bought home 5 yrs ago! research & troubleshooting took a bit of time, but by the time I ordered parts I felt very comfortable I had the right parts. All said, cost me about 40 bucks instead of probably $200 from tech... schematics from partselect.com were very helpful as well!!

Removed timer kit (this was the second time for this part)/ replaced - this is a fairly simple job and take 5 minutes. The defrost thermostat take about 10 minutes to get to and take out the old one, replacement is a 2 minute job, unplug and replace, the longest part of this job is getting the back of the freezer off and then replaced, but it is fairly simple to do. Total time to diagnose about 15 minutes, replacement parts arrived in 2 business days, replacement time 15 - 18 minutes total. Recommend getting the thermostat and timer together. The first time this happened, only order the timer but I think the problem was the thermostat all along and the time seemed to be operating but when it came on every eight hours it tripped the circuit breaker Not sure which was really the problem, but all working fine now.

At first I thought the fan motor was vibrating the back panel of the freezer. Nope! It was the evaporator motor itself, with worn out bearings creating an off balance fan. Most of the time was spent on removing and replacing the frozen food before getting at the back panel to expose the fan. It was good to find and toss out a few treasures we had forgotten about down there. It's good to have someone with long arms for this job, as the fan is on the back of the freezer, and you are sitting on the floor to begin with. Thanks PartSelect.

After unplugging the appliance I needed to thaw a large ice buildup off the evaporator cover panel before I could even remove the panel. The freezer being on the lower part of the appliance has the evaporator mounted vertically and it was 100% encapsulated in rock hard ice. It took over an hour to thaw the ice and collect all the water with a shop vacuum, since the condensate pan began to overflow.
One thawed, I checked all wiring for good connection, checked heater, defrost thermostat, timer unit with multimeter. The defrost thermostat checked out fine after putting it into another freezer for a 15 minute cooldown, but I noticed a crack in the seal and suspected internal moisture and decided to replace that part. A simple plug in of two leads to the new part after clipping it to the evaporator, replacement of the panel, and the appliance was up and running problem free.
A workbench disection of the old part confirmed my assessment, it had internal rust and water and had failed causing the defrost cycle failure.

Most difficult part was finding where they hid the defrost timer. (it is in the left front under the fridge behind the kick panel.) just unscrew the two fastener screws from the front, tilt fridge up on one side, slide timer bracket back and remove. Unplug and remove timer from metal bracket. Replace timer and remount bracket.

unPLUGED THE REF. FIRST..I removed the ice maker, then i removed 6 screws that was holding the panel covering the fan assy. body and houseing on. then i removed the panel. after removing the panel i removed 2 screws that was holding the fan assy. on, removed the electrical wireing, then i reinstalled the electrical wireing, reinstalled the fan assy. replaced the panel cover,reinstalled the ice maker
pluged the unit back in and away she go

I left the new seal out in the sun to warm up, while it was warming up I took the door off of the fridge and laid it flat. I removed all of screws holding the plastic shelves in place, removed the old gasget fitted the new one and reinstalled the door.

first I took the inside freezer panel off. Pulled off the deformed gasket. I noted how it was attached to the door. I then took the new gasket and placed it on the panel and reattached the panel to the freezer door. The screws are small and can get easily misplaced. Use a recepticle to hold the screws, it does make the job much easier. I also used a power drill which made the job move along nicely. Easy as pie. Thanks. I know where to get my parts in the future.

I took the cover off of the evaperator in the back of the freezer compartment and thawed the ice out with a heat gun. I then replaced the bimetal defrost timer I did have to change one connection as it would not plug into the harness.
I found the Defrost timer in the front of the refrigerator behind the filter cover at the bottom. Just one screw and a quick plug in and everything is working wonderfully. no more icing up

I removed the ice maker with 3 screws after having shut off the water. I tried getting the part locally but thought it was a bit much. Of course after having had ordered the wrong part, PS51041 and having it over nighted here and paying the return shipping I would have saved money getting it locally. When I finally got the right part I used the power cable and level lever off the old maker and reinstalled the ice maker in just a few minutes with a nut driver and screwdriver. Thurning on the water in about and hour it started making ice. When ordering online make sure you can get a large enough diagram to see what you are getting. If you can't ,call their phone number ant talk to a live person.

Our refrigerator is about 29 years old. We were told once that a gasket repair would cost more than a new fridge. Not so. It cost about $230 for both the fridge and freezer gasket. We had some rust that had developed from not replacing them sooner around some of the screws. They had to be cut out and replaced with the next size up to hold well. We cleaned everything thoroughly including behind the door compartments. We took those off the door. The guy in the video doesn’t do that. We replaced our freezer insulation also as it had gotten wet and was completely frozen. Overall, it took much longer because of our neglect over the years and believing someone when they said to just buy a new refrigerator. We love this one again, as much as we did when we bought it. The gaskets fit perfectly and after taping the doors shut overnight, they seal extremely well. We are very pleased.

Followed the video instruction and it was fairly easy to install. Let the gaskets sit for a day to reshape itself. Started by loosening the screws then removal of the gasket was done. The only hard part was to align the Gasket evenly. Not removing the doors made the install a little more difficult for alignment.