KBRS22KGBT3 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!

I think spent more time removing the frozen food and cleaning the bottom of the freezer compartment than actually changing the fan.

it came in one well constructed assembly, fan motor and bracket - an exact match for the existing part. I did not have an ice maker to remove so the steps were pretty simple.

1) Remove ice cube tray holder
2) Remove about 8 screws that hold the condenser cover plate
3) Remove two screws that hold the bracket (fan is attached to bracket)
4) Pull bracket away and remove two green ground wire tabs
5) Remove power connector
6) Clip wire ties from bracket that hold power cable
7) Remove old part
8) Reverse procedure

The old part had some built in wire tie holders that held the power cable away from the fan. I had no problem using a normal wire tie to tie it out of the way. You can probably just fed it around without a wire tie and achieve the same results.

All in all a real easy job. I'd say the job was easier than replacing a door knob, but harder than putting on new wiper blades.

Should be no problem for someone with average handy man skills.

After unplugging the appliance I needed to thaw a large ice buildup off the evaporator cover panel before I could even remove the panel. The freezer being on the lower part of the appliance has the evaporator mounted vertically and it was 100% encapsulated in rock hard ice. It took over an hour to thaw the ice and collect all the water with a shop vacuum, since the condensate pan began to overflow.
One thawed, I checked all wiring for good connection, checked heater, defrost thermostat, timer unit with multimeter. The defrost thermostat checked out fine after putting it into another freezer for a 15 minute cooldown, but I noticed a crack in the seal and suspected internal moisture and decided to replace that part. A simple plug in of two leads to the new part after clipping it to the evaporator, replacement of the panel, and the appliance was up and running problem free.
A workbench disection of the old part confirmed my assessment, it had internal rust and water and had failed causing the defrost cycle failure.

At first I thought the fan motor was vibrating the back panel of the freezer. Nope! It was the evaporator motor itself, with worn out bearings creating an off balance fan. Most of the time was spent on removing and replacing the frozen food before getting at the back panel to expose the fan. It was good to find and toss out a few treasures we had forgotten about down there. It's good to have someone with long arms for this job, as the fan is on the back of the freezer, and you are sitting on the floor to begin with. Thanks PartSelect.

removed cover in back of freezer and observed that defrost cycle seemed to happen too often. In comparing the existing part # with the factory part, I determined that possibly the wrong part was installed previously. (it had a 6 hr cooling cycle with a 45 min defrost...spec said I should be 8 hr cool & 20 min defrost) I did research on applianceguru.com... well worth the 5 bucks! I ordered a timer & thermostat & purchased a special refrigerator brush to clean the coils on the bottom. Cleaned the coils, replaced the parts in about 15 minutes and WA-LA! the freezer started getting really cold, but the fridge wouldn't get below 55. but it FELT cold! I swapped thermometers with the freezer & found out the thermometer was faulty!!! I now have the cool control backed down to 5/7 & freezer to 6/7. temps are freeze 0 and cool 40. works better than since we bought home 5 yrs ago! research & troubleshooting took a bit of time, but by the time I ordered parts I felt very comfortable I had the right parts. All said, cost me about 40 bucks instead of probably $200 from tech... schematics from partselect.com were very helpful as well!!

Removed timer kit (this was the second time for this part)/ replaced - this is a fairly simple job and take 5 minutes. The defrost thermostat take about 10 minutes to get to and take out the old one, replacement is a 2 minute job, unplug and replace, the longest part of this job is getting the back of the freezer off and then replaced, but it is fairly simple to do. Total time to diagnose about 15 minutes, replacement parts arrived in 2 business days, replacement time 15 - 18 minutes total. Recommend getting the thermostat and timer together. The first time this happened, only order the timer but I think the problem was the thermostat all along and the time seemed to be operating but when it came on every eight hours it tripped the circuit breaker Not sure which was really the problem, but all working fine now.

I removed the ice maker with 3 screws after having shut off the water. I tried getting the part locally but thought it was a bit much. Of course after having had ordered the wrong part, PS51041 and having it over nighted here and paying the return shipping I would have saved money getting it locally. When I finally got the right part I used the power cable and level lever off the old maker and reinstalled the ice maker in just a few minutes with a nut driver and screwdriver. Thurning on the water in about and hour it started making ice. When ordering online make sure you can get a large enough diagram to see what you are getting. If you can't ,call their phone number ant talk to a live person.

Most difficult part was finding where they hid the defrost timer. (it is in the left front under the fridge behind the kick panel.) just unscrew the two fastener screws from the front, tilt fridge up on one side, slide timer bracket back and remove. Unplug and remove timer from metal bracket. Replace timer and remount bracket.

Our refrigerator is about 29 years old. We were told once that a gasket repair would cost more than a new fridge. Not so. It cost about $230 for both the fridge and freezer gasket. We had some rust that had developed from not replacing them sooner around some of the screws. They had to be cut out and replaced with the next size up to hold well. We cleaned everything thoroughly including behind the door compartments. We took those off the door. The guy in the video doesn’t do that. We replaced our freezer insulation also as it had gotten wet and was completely frozen. Overall, it took much longer because of our neglect over the years and believing someone when they said to just buy a new refrigerator. We love this one again, as much as we did when we bought it. The gaskets fit perfectly and after taping the doors shut overnight, they seal extremely well. We are very pleased.

Remove 3 screws, took top hinge out, fz door and inserted shim...done.

The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

I followed the directions that came with the new part. Thank you for making it so easy. You sent me everything I needed to make the repair.

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.