KBLA20ELSS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.

Based on other feedback, it sounded like a bad valve. I ordered it from Part Select and received it the next day. I am in NO WAY handy, but it took about 5 min to change using the instructions. Not bad considering I spent $33 on the part and I was quoted $280 by the authorized repair center.

To remove freezer door, push white tabs, inside rail toward back, remove door and rails as one unit. Unscrew plastic rail support on one side, remove ice maker, then back panel. Cut off thermostat, strip old leads, match colors, twist copper wires together, then crimp on new part using connectors provided. Reassemble, hardest part was figuring out how to remove freezer door. Check for continuity between heater lead and white terminal of icemaker plug just to make sure the heater is good while everything is apart.

I called the installer of my filter unit and he told me that often, thhe fridge filter is the problem. Like magic it worked

I carefully took the clear plastic piece out of the top of the refrigerator. I removed two screws, unsnapped the white plastic cover and unplugged the old defrost timer and plugged in the new one. I then replaced everything in reverse order.

The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.

Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/heater. Replace with new. Reassemble.

Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .

Could not figure out why this was happening suddenly. Then remembered I had recently changed the lid to one I had stored for over two years in the garage. They had sent me a replacement lid when the unit was less than a year old because the origianl had a crack in the clear section. Noticed it seemed a little warped. Thought I would replace it to see if that solved the
problem.
We had to replace the side panel of the draawer because the warped lid had broken the peg off of one side. I didn't want that to happen again.
The new lid did the job....This company is the only one I will use in the future for my appliances. Very easy to find parts and the pricing was better.

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.

First I removed the existing copper ice maker line and then installed a plastic line. I then tried the appliance, with no change. I then removed and replace the primary water valve and then tested that as well. There was no change in the outcome. So I removed and replaced the secondary water valve and tested that as well and I noticed a significant change in water pressure, and in volume.

Remover rear cover at bottom of refrigerator. The replacement run capacitor was the same as the original one. The replacement Overload Relay Combination was slightly different. It plugged onto the compressor the same, but the connector where the power came in from the wiring harness was different. I had to cut off the original connector from the wiring harness, and then splice in new connectors onto those two wires which I could then attach to the replacement Overload Relay Combination. Fortunately the connectors I needed were fairly common and I had those available. After that it worked. My suspicion is that the Run Capacitor was fine, and it was just the Overload Relay Combination that failed. Replacing the capacitor without replacing the Overload Relay Combination did not fix the problem.

1. removed both bottom crisper drawers
2. removed glass shelf under crisper drawers
3. removed shelf support pieces
4. removeded snack drawer
5. removed left slide rail using phillips screwdriver (2 screws)
6. removed LH end cap using socket wrench (3 screws)
7. attached new LH end cap
8. attached slide rail
9. installed glas shelf supports
10. installed glas shelf
11. install bottom crisper drawers
12. install snack drawer
13. install snack drawer top

total time was less than 15 minutes

you need to take the deli drawer out, make sure your flat head screw driver is large enough for the head of the screw as screwing into the plastic is a bit difficult. Other than that there are 2 screws and its pretty easy.

Removed the three screws that held part, lifted and removed old part and replaced with new piece.
Couldn't have been easier. Saved me the $100 the repair man quoted me. Cannot believe it was so easy and the
part was soooo affordable! Thank you very much for the speedy delivery. It came within days of my order.
I will use your service again for sure!
Thank you!
Allyn Rosenzweig