KBRS22KGBL3 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Pretty simple really after reading online some other owners' experiences. This is a bottom freezer unit. Remove the ice maker, the tray slides, and the back cover of the freezer box. In my case I had to thaw it out with a hair dryer as the cover was frozen in place. I checked the old 'stat and found it was bad; I temporarily wired the leads together until the new 'stat arrived. It does allow the refrigerator to warm up during a defrost cycle but it beats de-icing it twice.The defrost 'stat is clipped over the refrigerant line in the upper right corner of the box. Resistance was 65k ohms and wouldn't close on low temp (tested by clipping it to an exposed refrigerant line in another upright freezer) but there was no obvious damage. The one lead on the replacement 'stat has the wrong connector so you have to cut off the original lead from the old unit and splice it on the wrong lead on the new one. I used an epoxy sealed heat shrink type butt splice. Reassemble and let it run. One word of warning: be careful tightening any screws as they will strip easily

Unplugged the refridgerator and cleared out the freezer section. Removed the panel at the back of the freezer(six 1/4 in screws )with a nutdriver and two screws on the evap.fan cover.

Moved the panel to one side and removed the wiring off the evap.fan assembly.

Then removed and installed the new assembly, re-attached the wiring and replaced the back panel and fan cover.
The assemble was identical to the one being replaced.

Total time about 25 minutes.

Easy but time consuming. I followed the excellent video instructions on this site and read through all the user comments before starting. I am a handy 65 year old woman who did this alone. I put the gasket in the dryer for 15 minutes then laid it flat for 24 hours before starting. I used a kitchen spatula to release the failed gasket and the plastic panel from the freezer door. The old freezer gasket allowed moisture into the insulation behind the plastic panel on the inside of the freezer door. The insulation inside was frozen solid and took several hours to defrost before I could continue, so prepare for down time by unloading your freezer. I used spray foam insulation after removing the old insulation and cleaning the plastic panel. The foam expands 2x so don't overfill the crevices or you will have to carve it out later like I did. It's really messy so wear gloves and protect surfaces. Putting it back together is easy. I used a heat gun to smooth out the kinks in the gasket and used the spatula to slide the gasket in place. I learned the hard way that there are 4 oval shaped openings on the plastic panel (one on each side) that should be screwed in first to align the panel correctly before screwing in the rest of the screws. My 25+ old fridge is running like new again! It's quieter and the blower isn't running as often. Very happy.

Refrigerator door was removed and placed on a set of "horses". Fastners were loosened about 3/4 thread length. Old gasket removed. New one installed. It was necessary to use a "hair dryer" to take out shipping kninks.
Used a piece of 1 1/2 inch sheet styrofoam to seal the door
opening during the process so as not requiring emptying the
unit.

The freezer door was a bit more difficult. This one was done in place. The Styrofoam sheet was cut down and fit in this opening as mentioned above. Inner door panel was removed to reveal heavy ice build up inside door. This was allow to melt and removed along with the fiberglass insulation. New fiberglass insulation was installed and the door reassembled.

In general everything went quite smoothly. Fit on both gaskets was really good.

Loosen bolts, remove gasket. Replace gaskets then tighten bolts.
The gaskets new were very out of shape when they were delivered this made it very difficult to put them back on. Even after warming them up with the hair dryer.

First time refridgerator repair, I was lucky this was not that bad of a job.

Removed food from freezer, took off ice maker by removing three screws, removed back panel by removing six screws. Once the back panel was removed, the fan assembly could be viewed while powered up. It was not spinning and air was not moving above or below the fan. I removed the electrical connections by hand (with the 'fridge powered down) and removed the fan assembly by removing the two screws adhering it to the back of the freezer section. I replaced the fan assembly and had some difficulty because the new unit shipped by partselect had the electrical connections on the opposite side than the original assembly. The wires were barely long enough so I was able to make the connections and subsequently attached everythng in the same manner it was removed and the fridge works great.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

The repair went very well. Once the sockethead cap screws were taken out of the seal and the ripped seal was removed, the door panel separated from the door itself allowing me to see that ice had already been forming within the insulation. I was fortunate to have decided to replace the seal when I did or further damage would have occurred. After thoroughly cleaning the refrigerator and freezer I replaced the seal using a hair dryer as suggested to tighten the seal into place. Everything is working as it should once again.

first thing i thought was the condenser was plugged so pulled out and cleaned with shop vacum backwards so it became a blower not a vacum cleaned it good and put together. wife noticed cracking noise inside freezer. took all freezer food and shelfs out. took 1/4 inch hex nut screws out and found complete condenser solid ice. did some research on internet and found parts select stories. i buy passed thermostate and hooked heating coils direct which then thawed condenser. checked timer by turning of and it worked fine until i got part and installed.

First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!

I first removed the icemaker pump and filler tube fron the back of the refrigerator by using an adjustable wrench and pliers. (very simple connection) I went ahead and replaced both items at that time.

Next I opened the bottom freezer and removed the top wire tray and ice container. I removed the bottom nut from the ice maker, pulled the electrical plug lose from the freezer connection. I then just lifted the ice maker upward and off the two screws on the side wall and out it came!

I had a little trouble with the filler tube as it came into the freezer. I had to go back and forth to the back of the refrigerator and freezer a couple of times adjusting the tube, so it woiuld clear the inside freezer wall.

This was a very minor problem. I feel like if I had followed the instructions and made sure the tube came through before attaching the icemaker it would have worked like a charm!

What I really liked, was everything was in the box for the job.

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

It was easy. I followed the video that was on the item page, and the installation went really smooth. Remember to heat the gasket up before installing.

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!