59673503200 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

I removed the 5/16 inch hex head nuts holding the rear access panel where the power cord was connected. Once removed, I released the Molex plug and ground wire. I connected the new cord, screwed in the ground and installed the rear panel. Having the exact OEM part made the job quick and easy.

You just take the old door bin out by sliding it up and replace with the new bin by sliding it down in the door.

There was little or almost nothing to change out the End Cap, two screws on the End Cap and two screws on slide. It took longer to removed and replace the two drawers and shelve than it did to replace the End Cap. The part I ordered was exactly what I needed.

I followed Isako From Burlingame CA's step by step instructions above and completed the replacement/repair in a snap.

Unscrew filter. Screw on filter bypass

I did some research online, and was sure that it was the evaporator fan motor that was not working. So I paid more for overnight shipping than I did for the fan motor to have it over-nighted. I removed the botttom freezer door by simply pulling out and lifting it up. I then removed the wire shelf by pulling it straight out. Removed the ice maker by removing the three screws that held it in place . Disconnected the the wire harness, and pulled it out. Then I popped off the plastic vent at the top of the freezer's interior rear cover. Removed the rear cover by removing the four or so screws holding it on to expose the evap fan motor and the freezer coil. Careful, the fins are fragile and sharp. I inspected the fan motor and it seemed to be working fine. I unplugged the fridge and plugged it back in. It went through a defrost cycle and I put it all back together again. Cranked the frige unit up to 7, and was able to lower the freezer to 4. It's been working ever since. Eventually I was able to lower the fridge back down to 6. Long of the short is I paid $60 for nothing.

I opened up the back panel, and with a multimeter found that the compressor was not getting power. The voltage stopped at the connection socket and run capacitor. Unplugged the fridge and discharged the capacitor, CAREFULLY removed these parts and replaced them. Fridge works now. The repair guy gave me an estimate of $900, but with partselect, I fixed my fridge for $63 including overnight shipping.

Remember to unplug the fridge before removing the back panel, and vacuum any dust and dirt before you work. The power to the compressor is at WALL OUTLET LEVELS and can cause serious injury or death. Please be careful and wear proper protective equipment. The repair may extremely simple, but that does not mean you should be careless.

Honestly, so simple . Removed the fruit / veggie drawers, glass shelf and the supports for that shelf. Couple of screws and nuts and it was off. As stated before... the most "thought goes into attaching the linkage for the temp adjustment on the right side . GREAT opportunity to CLEAN the up the fridge a bit!! Parts Select made this such a no brainer. Their Customer Service was really an added bonus!!

I was getting small sections of ice and a snow like build - up around the freezer door. I thought that the door was not sealing tight enough and that the cold air was leaking out. The original door gasket appeared to not have any flexibility anymore and was getting hard. I ordered a new door gasket from PartsSelect. When the gasket arrived it was in a large enough box and that saved me some time as the gasket was not "crushed" to the point where there were a lot of kinks in the gasket. I used a hair dryer on low to warm the gasket and stretch it out some. The freezer door required me loosening four small screws and lifting the door off. I placed the door on an old blanket so not to scratch the finish. It was easy to remove the old gasket and after doing so I cleaned the track where the new gasket was to go with isopropyl alcohol, Once cleaned, I placed the gasket over the channel in the door where the old gasket had been and started installing the new gasket. I started at the corners and you can feel the gasket snap into place. Once the four corners were done I started at the top and installed the gasket the rest of the way. You can feel it snap into place. as you work your way around the gasket channel. Once the gasket was in place I placed the door on the four small grooves where the door had been and tightened up the screws. I made sure that no white from the inside of the freezer door was showing after the gasket was in place and that the gasket had some "spring" to it. The door was back on, the gasket was tight and it appeared to be a good seal. Around 12 hours later I checked the freezer and there was no more ice or "snow" on the edges of the freezer. While the gasket was not inexpensive, it is a genuine OEM piece, and the gasket is a lot cheaper than a new refrigerator!
I hope this was helpful...

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Receive the parts. Review the video. Thought I can do this got down to the screw and I didn’t have is a ratchet small enough to remove the screw so I had to call D.O.C appliances to do the install Michael was here less than 15 minutes

proped up frig, loosened screws, cut pin, installed rooler w/ new pin, rounded pin end, reistalled, lowered frig...everyone happy, thanks again partselect.

First, I shut off the water going to the refrigerator, then removed the ice bin. Then I loosened the two screws on the top of the ice maker (the one toward the front was a little tricky, since you can't see it at all), then removed the screw that fastens the lower bracket to the side of the frig. Then I lifted up on it slightly to remove it from the two upper screws, then unplugged the wiring harness from the side of the refrigerator and lifted the whole unit out of the frig.

I then removed the plastic cover on the front of the ice maker, pressed on the tab to remove the wiring harness from the old ice maker, and installed it on the new ice maker. I then removed the metal arm from the old ice maker and installed it on the new unit as well. The last part that I moved from the old ice maker to the new one was the lower bracket, as the bracket on the new ice maker was bent during shipping.

Once those parts were swapped, I put the plastic cover on the new ice maker, plugged the wiring harness back into the side of the frig, routed the fill tube into the back on the ice maker assembly, and set the unit back on the two upper screws. I then put the screw back in the lower bracket, tightened the two upper screws, and then put the ice bin back in and turned the water back on. After a couple of hours, I threw out the first couple of batches of ice and it is now working as it had in the past.

I also noticed, when looking at the old ice maker, that the black plastic coating was coming off the ice cube tray, so it was a good time to be replacing it anyway. Overall, a very easy job (I was prepared for swearing, parts being slightly off, etc.) and it would have been a shame to have paid someone to do it.