10655122700 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

After spending $250 on repair by calling appliance repair professional who changed relay in the fridge, the problem was not solved. I had to manually turn the switch off and on again to make sure my fridge would maintain its temperature. I read some similar problems on this web site, watched instalation video and decided to give it a try. Part came in very quick and it took me (female) 45 minutes to install the new part and refregirator worked like a champ. I would never call professional again until I try fixing the problem myself.

took the auger off and baffle replaced the baffle put every thing back together installed back to the freezer tried it out it dont work have to tear into the the motor which works the auger to see if anything else is broke.

The repair video was a great help in this specific repair and matched my refrigerator model exactly. The only issue was an apparent design change in the thermostat that I received. The location of the electrical leads has changed. It might be worth mentioning this in the video. Polarity is not an issue in this case, but if it was, it would be worth noting in the video. So far the refrigerator has been operating normally.

My fridge was not cooling properly as I would have to tap the thermostat at times to get it to kick on again. Ordered the temperature control thermostat from this site t and watched video on how to install. Not hard at all and did it in under an hour. Fridge is working like new..

Searched my issue on the internet then chose part select to see if bi-metal thermostat was available and it was so I ordered part which was under $30.00 incl. shipping. I then went to You Tube to watch how to replace the part but most importantly to find out where it was located and degree of difficulty. Replacement was rather simple and it fixed our 22 year old fridge. I must add that when I looked up the part it also told you what percent of the time that particular item actually fixed the problem based on others experience. I thought that was neat info. as I felt better about ordering something that may or may not fix my problem. Thank you,

The Ice maker unit had to be removed and the shaft had to also be removed, which required dis-assembling the motor drive. The thickness of the shaft and the bearing fill cup prevents it from simply pushing it in place. Other than that I have Ice.

Removed old thermostat and replaced with new one. The video link in the shipping email was great - really detailed even though it was a simple fix.

Emptied door of food jars etc. Used socked on top plate. Removed door and placed on a flat surface. Used socket to take out cam on the bottom of the door. Replaced worn cam. Replaced nylon sleeve on the top of the refrigerator door with needle nose pliers. Placed door in the bootom slot with the new cam in place. Placed top plate in the new nylon sleeve on the door. Replaced screws with socket wrench.

The refrigerator would make loud sounds humming sounds periodically. The bearings were going out on the evaporator motor. Emptied the freezer side of fridge. Unplugged unit. Took shroud off (6 screws). Removed the three wire clips. Pulled fan off shaft. Carefully pushed plastic strap to remove motor. Replaced with new motor. Carefully attached strap to hold motor. This seems very fragile so be very carefull to attach properly and not break. Reverse the rest and done in less than 15 minutes. 30 minutes cleaning the fridge.

the piece fit perfectly and delivery was within a couple days. very satisfied.

Detached the broken ice guide by expandong the opening bewteen the tabs with my hands. Installed the new ice guide and pressed into place. Took about 3 minutes.

I followed the procedures that others described that had the same problem,very handy

First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!

1. Put pieces of wood under door to support it.
2. Unscrew three screws holding door hinge.
3. Disconnect water line.
4. Unscrew screw holding each cam. One to door and one to hinge.
5 Replace cams.
6. Retrieve plate with threaded holes behind frame that the hinge attaches to.
7. Use thin philips screwdriver through the hinge bracket, shim, frame and screw plate to align it for the other two screws.
8. Replace all three hinge screws.
9. Connect water line fitting.
10. Remove wood for door support.
11. Check door for smooth movement and strong pressure when closed.

Starting at the bottom, with a flat blade screwdriver pry the front cover off the opening. Unplug the wire connector from the back, remove the cover plate holding the switches and light socket by pushing out on the plastic clips on each side. Use something like a bungie cord to hold it up out of the way. Carefully unsnap the clear plastic ice shoot from the push arm, next carefully unsnap the cover door from the push arm. Clean anything that needs cleaning (CLR works great on hard water deposits)
Install everything in reverse order, the cover door first, ice shoot next, switch plate, plug in the wire connector and snap the outside cover in place.