10672002013 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

By sliding athin screwdriver blade down the side of the old switch the expasion prong that hold the switch in place was compressed enough to allow the switch to come out easlily. Plugged in new swithc and snapped in place. Plugged the refrigerator back in and light has worked great sense!

Since there were no instructions, I was a tad hesitant but dove in. I was just replacing the right end cap, not the left. Removed the involved shelf as well as the two drawers above. Undid the three screws involved and carefully removed the slide rail end cap as well as a part in the back that was attached. That was the hairy part. It took a bit of time to remove it since everything seems so brittle but I was careful and got the assembly out without breaking anything. Also had to remove the slide rail and humidity control. Nothing to removing and replacing the slide rail. You just have to put it back correctly oriented. This was easy. I just looked at the one on the left, which I hadn't removed. Most time consuming part was cleaning things that were normally inaccessible, before re-installing.

The video was a great help. I was able to replace gaskets on both doors with out taking them off and no tools were needed.
One of the refrigerator doors has a plate that closes with the door that makes replacing the gasket questionable but I was able to do it with no problem.

1. Turn your water OFF and pull the refrigerator out from the wall so you can access the back.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you can gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.

Ordered the part. When came in I took it out of the box and slid the two end posts into the provided holes. Lid fixed in less than 5 minutes. Part came in on the third day because I ordered on Friday afternoon.

Hardest part is access to the icemaker itself. Once I removed the freezer door (bottom drawer freezer), and got the sliding basket out, it was a 10 minute job. Make sure you start the upper screws first, the icemaker will hang there while you adjust, connect the harness, and tighten. Make sure you are ready before you close the door, it will start making ice as soon as the door is closed.

I did not unplug the refrigerator. Your choice on this. Take a close look at the existing icemaker, how the wires are routed and what the water spout looks like as it relates to the icemaker. Small flat-blade screwdriver will help in unlocking tabs on the icemaker plug. Go ahead and unplug it. Of the three screws that secure the icemaker, two are impossible to see without holding a mirror in your third hand. Completely remove the bottom screw (by feel). Don't drop it, like I did. Have no idea where it went. Loosen the top two screws but do not remove. Icemaker will lift off of the top two screws when you push it up. With old icemaker out of the way, plug in the new icemaker. Be careful to properly align the water spout into the new icemaker as you hook it on the two top screws. When everything looks good, tighten the two top screws. Replace the bottom screw, if you didn't lose it. My icemaker is doing fine without a bottom screw. It should make some ice within an hour, or so. Mine did.

Awesome! Couldn't ask for it any better. I watched the video from Partselect multiple time and was just as easy as they said it would be. It took me longer to watch the video four times than it did for me to install it. I have a habit of 10 minute projects turning into a couple hours and this took about 10 minutes. Thanks.

We snapped the new one on correctly this time.

Used a deep well 1/4" nut driver. Loosen 4 screws on inside of door and slip it up and off rack. Remove 2 screws on bottom of ice maker. Loosen top 2. Slip up of screws, unplug ice maker and remove.

I contacted partselct to see if I could get the end caps with new hinges to correct the problem. My customer service contact was very professional and a huge help in helping me select the correct parts. When the parts arrived I was amazed they were genuine whirlpool parts, fit perfectly, and were easy to install. I have other parts to order and will use partselct again. I appreciate everything they did for me to solve this problem.

Remove rail and removed broken black plastic spring mechanism with new one and then replace rail.

The part came the next day, very quick. The wrong size ended up in box we recieved. The part # we ordered was correct, just a mix up in the packaging process. I called and the customer service dept. had a new correct crisper pan delivered to my door two days later. Even with the mix up it was very fast and a good price compared to other sites. I would order again in the future.

Unscrew filter. Screw on filter bypass

It was easy to replace the start and run capacitors. But did not fix my problem, also replaced the evaporator fan still not fixed. Pulled refrigerator out of RV and ordered a new one.