25331434100 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

simply replaced the pieces directly. It was very easy.
The different parts are easily deciphered and reassembled.

I had to loosen the screw holding the mounting block and increase the hole size to fit the screw on refrigerator

My upper and bottom air diffuser was missing.
Purchased both air diffuser and placed it.

pulled back panel to get at evap fan motor cut wires to remove reinstalled hooked up wires

I watch the video on your site and this make iit very easy to do. That repair that tooks me 40 minutes.

Removed panel over the motor in the freezer department. Removed screws holding the motor in, unplug wires. Reversed process to install motor.

Very easy process. Watch the YouTube video, it goes step by step for the repair. The part was $33, shipping was $6. Take your time and fix it yourself or pay $500 for a new refrigerator.

I tested the components in the refrigerator defrost function. I used digital multimeter and checked for continuity. Defrost thermostat must 32 degrees or lower.

removed the back panel of the freezer and unplugged the connector for the Motor. Removed the air diffuser, then removed the fan blade. Removed the 2 screws holding the motor to the bracket. Disconnected the old wire harness and installed the new one. Put the fan blade onto the new motor and installed the motor onto the bracket. Put the air diffuser back on, plugged the motor back in and fastened the back panel. Plugged the refrigerator into the outlet and tested, OK!

I cut wires from bad thermostat and removed it . Stripped wires and crimped connectors on new thermostat and wires from old thermostat. Used heat gun to seal sleeves over connectors. Very helpful video from this site Thanks, you will be my go to parts supplier from now on!!!!!!!!!!!!

Unplugged refrigerator. Emptied freezer and removed ice maker and cover, need to unplug fan. Defrosted coils with hot water. Cut wires to thermostat as close to it ad possible to leave extra wire in case of an error. Stripped wire in new thermostat and put in shrink plastic then the wire crimp connector joining both light blue wires making sure wires were in before crimping them. Repeated with other dark blue wire. After used the heat gun to shrink the protective white tubing. The only thing i found not satisfying was tge tubing. It was too wide and too small. When i shrunk it did not cover the whole connector and was loose. I had to use a glue gun to cover both ends of each wire connector. Hope this helps other users.

Use the rubber brushing to fill the gap.

This is super easy. You just pop the old supports off vertically, pull the bar off of the broken one(s), replace them with the new one(s), then pop the whole thing back onto the door of the fridge by pushing down on both sides.

A little research told me the hum plus no cooling was either the compressor or the relay. I ordered the new relay and put it in but it didn't fix the problem. I ended up having to buy a new fridge, but it was worth the $30 gamble to see if I could fix it on the cheap and it saved me the money a service call would've cost. Pretty easy installation, just in a tight space on my model.

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.