59673504200 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The video was a great help. I was able to replace gaskets on both doors with out taking them off and no tools were needed.
One of the refrigerator doors has a plate that closes with the door that makes replacing the gasket questionable but I was able to do it with no problem.

1. Turn your water OFF and pull the refrigerator out from the wall so you can access the back.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you can gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.

I did a few tests with the old ice maker and determined that it was the ice maker itself that was faulty. The replacement part I ordered exceeded my expectations in the time it took to get the part. I reused the arm, wire harness and clamps from the old icemaker. Then it was a simple install into the bottom freezer compartment, turning on the water supply and bingo...lots of ice cubes.

Followed the video on parts page. I was worried I would brake the cover but learned from the video the right way to remove the front plate. I found the video very informing. Thank you for saving me a service call and the part cost was minimal compared to a new refrigerator .

Removed screw under ice maker. Tilted ice maker up to remove unit from upper two screws. Disconnected plug at rear of freezer. Attached wiring harness, baler arm and cover from old to new ice maker. Reinstalled in reverse order. Had ice within one hour. Very easy fix.

I got on the web blog and saw a conversation on here that sounded just like the problems i have been having with my unit. After reading every thing about it i ordered the part needed and installed it. I let the fridge thaw out over night and started it up the next morning. Its been two month since i installed the part and it is working great!!!

I unhooked the wire harness from the ref. and took out three screws and pulled the old unit out. I than changed a few parts from the old icemaker to the new and reattached the new ice maker to the ref. and plugged the wire back in. everything is working fine. No problems. Also I was very happy with the ordering process. Thank you!!

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Unscrew filter. Screw on filter bypass

.screw held in the center of the rail,pull it out,slide the rail up off the support brackets on the door,unplug the old one & plug in the new one,slide on, & replace the screw! That Easy

I did some research online, and was sure that it was the evaporator fan motor that was not working. So I paid more for overnight shipping than I did for the fan motor to have it over-nighted. I removed the botttom freezer door by simply pulling out and lifting it up. I then removed the wire shelf by pulling it straight out. Removed the ice maker by removing the three screws that held it in place . Disconnected the the wire harness, and pulled it out. Then I popped off the plastic vent at the top of the freezer's interior rear cover. Removed the rear cover by removing the four or so screws holding it on to expose the evap fan motor and the freezer coil. Careful, the fins are fragile and sharp. I inspected the fan motor and it seemed to be working fine. I unplugged the fridge and plugged it back in. It went through a defrost cycle and I put it all back together again. Cranked the frige unit up to 7, and was able to lower the freezer to 4. It's been working ever since. Eventually I was able to lower the fridge back down to 6. Long of the short is I paid $60 for nothing.

I followed Isako From Burlingame CA's step by step instructions above and completed the replacement/repair in a snap.

Removed the door and replaced the broken door closure bushing. I had courteous help and responce from Parts Select people. Excelent turn around time on parts delivery.

First, I took out the glass tray along with the two slide out compartments that are part of that assembly. Then I used a small socket set to take out the three screws that hold the part in place and along with the part a plastic connector comes out with it that adjusts the temp of the bin area. Line up the holes on the slider and two screws come out that hold the slider to the part. Disconnet the plastic piece in the back that adjusts are flow (press down plastic holders) Reattach the slider, snap the plastic piece on the back and reassemble. Sounds complicated but once you are in there, its self explanatory.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked