25344399404 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I had removed the housing that the drum was in and taken the screws out to get to the broken drum. I removed it there was a set of 6 blades that crushed the ice that had to go back on the same order when I removed these I put them on a piece of wire in the order they came off (so I would get them back I the correct order). Then I reversed the order and reassembled it in the opposite direction . It was fairly easy to do. I'm a 68 year old disabled woman so if I could do it I'm sure you could to. Good luck. It cost me $14.00 if I had bought the whole assembly it would have been $150.00. So it was well worth my time and effort.

This is the second time I've had to replace the crisper cover, so I had that step mastered. As before, I took the glass from broken crisper cover and dropped it into new cover in seconds. Had to use a screwdriver to pry old crisper supports from the walls of the fridge. This was the only hassle. Popped new supports in, replaced crisper covers, and slid crisper drawers back into place. From now on, I'll have to be more careful about how much weight I put into crispers.

I followed the video tutorial published here. The step I altered was setting the shrink wrap; I did not have a heat gun to safely shrink it, so I folded it tightly onto itself and wrapped it in electrical tape. No more frost buildup.

Took off Door on Refr. and unscrewed Doorstop,
removed doorstop with broken Bearing and replaced with new Parts. Took about 20 Minutes
including reattaching Door. A 10 year old can do it.

Consult the exploded view of the Ice Container on this site. A likely cause the end plate (17) is worn. This plate connects the rotating corkscrew to the final plastic worm that pushes the ice into the crusher and thence to your waiting glass. The worm alone will not do the trick. To replace this plate, you need to take out all of the screws you can see, including the one that holds the spring for the crusher select bar.. First, the front cover, then the plate, and finally, locking ring from the worm and the black housing for the crusher. Now you can remove the whole worm assembly. Using a cloth or rubber insulator to protect it, unscrew the end screw and slide off the crusher teeth. Store on the table as a unit to facilitate re-assembly. Slide off the old bar and worm, put them back, and re-assemble. Takes a little dexterity to get the crusher select bar back, but not hard. Easy job.

Removed the plastic water tubes cover with a nut driver. Disconnected water hoses. Dropped control box assembly with nut driver. Removed old filter base with phillips screwdriver. Assembly opposite.

Took drawers out by removing 2 screws on top of rail near front, then popped black plastic cover off in lower right inside cabinet...sensor just un plugged and new one plugged in easily...did not fix problem though...display set at 34 but bottom drawer reads about 40 at best and upper drawer reads around 55...dont think the 3 little fans inside on back wall have been running

pulled out the old assy and replace with the new one.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

We had to unhook & remove icemaker several times, thaw it out & reinstall, it would work for a day or two then overflow. Bought the new ice marker, replace it and it works great....

Not too bad, remove the water and ice bezel (3 philips screws) then remove the dispenser unit another 3-4 philips screws. Remove water line from dispenser unit (remember this as the water tube re-insertion is the complicated part) I did not remove anything other then components listed above. Seals and inner door stay intact. Replaceing the actuator and arm was easy. two small philips will free the actuator and arm. Disconnect the two wire harness (black and red) NOTE- there are two sets of black and red wire harnesses that plug in next to each other. One is for the ice dispenser and the other for the water. putting it back together is as easy as taking it apart. However the water line has no play, no slack at all so when reinserting it, the space between the dispenser unit and the door itself is limited. Put the tip of the hose down into the hole you removed it from, hold the dispenser still and use a pair of long needle nose pliers to push (feed) the hose down into the hole. Make sure it comes out the other side by about 1/4 inch to insure it is in and stable. reinstall the unit and bezel. Most of my time was spent feeding the short water tube back in place. You will see just how much room there is between the dispenser and the door before you pull the water tube from the unit. In this case you can judge if it will be too complicated for you before you go any further.

Remove the bottom freezer drawer. Remove back metal evaporator panel. Wire in new defrost terminationT-stat. Reassemble evap panel. Good to go.

My son and I did it together. I was able to copy and paste the parts diagram on your website and we were able to go step by step following that diagram.We first shut the power to the refrigerator.We then removed the tray and the pad with buttons on the exterior of the fridge. We then unsnapped the electrical plug and were able to tilt the casing that holds the actuator. We removed the old one, and snapped the new one into place.We plugged it in and then proceeded to replace everything. Voila....we now have water again, all for the price of the part...Great!!!

I ordered a new shelf and I put in, less than minute

We replaced the damper, but it didn't fix the problem. We then purchased and replaced the thermistor. (We had previously replaced the defrost thermostat). The refrigerator side is now cooling better, but not enough. The damper doesn't seem to be opening. So we have now unplugged the damper and left the opening between the refrigerator propped open and the refrigerator side is now cool enough. (We had previously tried keeping the damper open before we replaced the thermistor and the refrigerator didn't cool off. So the thermistor did fix something, but the damper doesn't seem to have been the problem).