59655659500 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.

1 - Look at the schematic for the "Fountain" on Partselect.com
2 -Order the ice chute door and seal (seal is rubber and eventually it will stop sealing - while you are in there go ahead and change it)
3 - Unplug the refrigerator then remove the sump tray by pulling it straight out from the door
4 - Unscrew the two screws hidden behind the sump tray - hold the dispenser front housing in place so it doesn't drop downward - after removing the two screws slide the dispenser front housing downward while pressing it against the refrigerator door - there are two clips on the back of the housing that hold it against the refrigerator door
5 - Gently pull the dispenser front housing out of the refrigerator door an inch or two - you will be able to see the electrical connections between the dispenser front housing and the refrigerator.
6 - Continue pulling out the dispenser front housing until you can reach the multi-wire connector on the left - the connector is held together by a clip on the bottom center - squeeze the clip at the end closest to the wires to release it - gently pull the connector off
7 - In the center of the back of the dispenser front housing is a black plastic box (the limit switch) - again, gently pull it away from the two clips holing it on
8 - Set the dispenser front housing aside
9 - Slip the water hose out of the clips holding to to the chute
10 - Unscrew the three screws holding the chute to the door (two on the left and one on the upper right - Slide the chute out of the door
11 - Hold the door hinge so you don't accidentally break it (personal experience) and unclip the top then the bottom of the ice cube door from the hinge (the ice chute seal and ice chute door insulation are attached to the ice cube door - take all three out at the same time)
12 - Slip the ice chute seal off of the ice cube door - pull the ice chute door insulation out of the ice cube door
13 - Put the ice chute door insulation into the new ice chute door - Slip the ice chute seal onto the ice cube door (the schematic will give you the proper orientation for all of the parts)
14 - Again holding the door hinge - slip the two "L" shaped clips onto the bottom of the ice chute door - rotate the ice chute door assembly and snap (gently) the two side clips into place over the opening in the door hinge
15 - Breath a breath of relief if you didn't break anything
16 - Slide the chute assembly over the white pin on the lower right of the refrigerator opening that accepts the chute
17 - Replace the three screws that hold the chute assembly to the door - replace the water line
18 - Clip the limit switch onto the back of the dispenser front housing
19 - run the multi-wire connector behind the water line - connect it to the back of the dispenser front housing
20 - Slip the wires back into the clips along the sides of the opening in the refrigerate door
21 - Rest the dispenser front housing on the bottom of the door opening - it must fit flush to the door (top, bottom and sides) - Slide it gently upward until it stops - replace the two screws at the bottom rear of the dispenser front housing - slide the sump tray back in place
22 - Plug in the refrigerator
23 - Dispense ice cubes into a high ball glass and enjoy a job well done

On the back of the refrigerator, I unscrewed and removed the lower-right panel. As I peeled the insulation off the panel, the insulation would disintegrate, so I used a vacuum-cleaner hose to remove most of the insulation. I removed the remaining adhesive with my fingers. I peeled the backing off the new insulation, and stuck it to the panel.

I had ordered two pieces of insulation, hoping to also replace the insulation behind the compressor, but removing the compressor was complicated and risky, so I returned the second piece of insulation.

By sliding athin screwdriver blade down the side of the old switch the expasion prong that hold the switch in place was compressed enough to allow the switch to come out easlily. Plugged in new swithc and snapped in place. Plugged the refrigerator back in and light has worked great sense!

Followed the video and installed the new Jazz board. The board cam in 1 piece which had to be separated into two pieces, but the scored area on the board made it less intimidating. At the same time I replaced the two incandescent lamps in the refrigerator area with LED lamps. Getting the housing for the control board apart was the most difficult part, installing the replacement board was a breeze.

My son (who does HVAC, but not appliance repair) did some investigating by taking front and back panels off and determined that the evaporator coil was freezing over because the defrost wire was not heating up. He and his girlfriend did some real-time internet searching for diagnostic info because NO control diagram was included with the refrigerator. He determined the problem was most likely the electronic control board. Ordered and installed a new board and the refrigerator is back to working fine. Took about 2 hours to diagnose the problem and 1/4 hour to actually install the control board. Kind of disappointing that this control board failed when the refrigerator was less that 4 years old.

First I removed the back cover then removed 3 nuts holding the motor. Next I removed the two wires. Next I attached new connectors to the wires and installed the new motor and everything worked perfect!

Service and shipping were fantastic! I would definitely use Partselect again!

I have replaced the circuit board, the condenser fan motor but the unit still will not feeze correctly. The bottom of the unit freezes but just barely cools the rest of the freezer and ice box. Have you got any other advice that might help. This is a side by side unit. What else could be the problem. It seems that the fan is not working correctly or it is stuck in defrost mode. The coils where the fan is seem to be icing up but it will not let the fan work. THanks for your help, David Wilson

1 screw remove assembly. Unplug cable harness and remove old cover and wire arm. Replace cover and wire arm and attach wire harness on assembly end. Re attach using screw removed in first step. Plug in wire harness. Making ice within 30 minutes.

Well folks I put up with an ice burg all summer when I really should have took the time to fix it. You know how it goes though. You get so busy you just put it off.
Well don't put this one off because this is just how easy it went.
I came home one evening and wanted to make a drink to relax but that big glob of ice was there waiting for me. I took a crewdriver and beat it down so I could pull the catch basin out. Having looked it over for a minute I grabed a nut driver and took three of the screws out that held it in. I unpluged the wire and bingo it was out. Maybe five min. had elasped.
After taking the unit out I notice how the non stick surface was coming off of the tray and that explains the black pieces that were getting into my ice.
Getting the model number off the back of the fridge and writing it down I went to my trusty lap top and did a quick search for a ice maker for my Jenn Air refrigeraton and blamo...! Part Select came up and I put the part number in their search engine and bingo again there it was, my part.
One quick order and in three days it was right there by my door when I got home.
Now i'm so excited. I went into the house and didn't even chage out of my dress clothes. Within five minutes it was in. Now I just had to wait for the timer to do it's thing and sure enough, I awoke the next morning to a whole tray of beautiful ice cubes. Wow no more ice burgs.
The moral of my story is I spent so much time hacking out that glob of ice and for fifteen minutes of my time, I could have been siping on cold ones by the pool but now old man winter is pressing down on me and I guess a lesson learned was a lesson earned. Fix it!

remove front grill. with pry bar and wooden block, elevate side with broken wheel and insert wooden block behind assemble from the exterior bottom. With roller wheel assemble lose from the wooden block remove front elevator screw from the front frame. next remove cotter pin with the pliers and pull assemble pin. next elevate assemble out. drill out axle on the crimp side insert from the hardware store one 5/16 x 21/2 bolt with nut and new wheel. reinsert assemble in the reverse order. Remove wooden block and adjust height of wheel. replace grill. job complete. good job

We came home from a long vacation to discover a warm refrigerator with its contents in various stages of decay.

Turning the freezer thermostat to its warmest setting then back to cold generated clicks, and after a few tries the compressor started and cooled the refrigerator to its normal cold temperatures. But… later the compressor again failed to start, and everything warmed back up again. With persistence and turning the thermostat up and down several times a day, we could keep the fridge cold.

It was time to order parts. We needed a new start relay and capacitor for the compressor. For our Amana ARB2214CW a start relay (WP12555902) and capacitor (WP65889-4) were listed on the first page of the Partselect parts list for my refrigerator. I ordered them, received them, removed the old capacitor and start relay (which rattled when shaken). and prepared to install my new parts. The new start relay did not match the old. The old start relay fit my wiring which had a single plug with two small female spade connectors in the plug. The new start relay required wiring with two separate female spade connectors; one the normal size and one larger. Phone calls to Partselect and to Westinghouse shed no light on the discrepancy. On the second page of the Partselect parts list was a combination of a start relay and a capacitor (W10613606) that matched my electrical connector. I could see the connection in the photograph. I ordered it and it fit. Easy peazy. That fixed the compressor start problem. Every time the freezer thermostat clicked on, the compressor started. Success.

But… from our troubleshooting we now had a thermometer the freezer, and it was obvious that the temperature difference between the cold point where the thermostat turned the compressor off and the warm point where the thermostat restarted the compressor was much too wide. In addition, the knob was hard to turn and was sticky as it turned. Oiling it fixed the sticky knob problem but not the wide temperature difference problem. I ordered a new freezer thermostat (WP67003000), received it, installed it, and all is now fine with my refrigerator. The new thermostat was physically a little different from the original, but it fit and worked.

I returned the first compressor start relay and capacitor and received a refund including the shipping charge.

Diconnecting the hoses was a pain as there are no instructions. Draw a diagram of each hose and color of the connectors or better take a picture before starting. Make sure the water is off, have a bowl & towels ready to mop up the water that runs out of the hoses. You have to push each hose in along with the little top hat connector that the hose runs thru. With both pushed in, hold the top hat connector down and pull the hose up and out. I could not reconnect without a leak on the hose that has a spring in it if I slipped the hose thru the white bracket. I ran the hose outside of the bracket and it went right in with no leak.

I did a few tests with the old ice maker and determined that it was the ice maker itself that was faulty. The replacement part I ordered exceeded my expectations in the time it took to get the part. I reused the arm, wire harness and clamps from the old icemaker. Then it was a simple install into the bottom freezer compartment, turning on the water supply and bingo...lots of ice cubes.

Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.