2535569940N Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I shut the water off under the sink and removed the back piece on the refrigerator, unscrewed the water valve, cut the ends off each plastic hose and reinserted into the new water valve. Then rescrewed the water line into the new water valve and turned on the water. Unfortunately, I was not able to get water out of the door and the ice maker still doesn't make ice. While this was an easy procedure, it didn't help me. I'm not sure I needed to replace the water valve.

I found that getting the water/ice dispenser back in place was the hardest part because the water hose is so short. I finally threaded a stiff wire up into the hose and guided it through the dispenser opening. The rest was pretty much routine.

Pulled the drip tray out of the ice/water dispenser.
Removed 3 screws, pulled up the beauty ring.
Removed 3 more screws, pulled out the circuit board, and plastic plate that it is installed in.
Removed screws that hold the actuator in place. Unplugged and removed broken actuator, installed new actuator, installed hold down screws. Plugged in actuator. Installed beauty and other parts in reverse of removal. Would probably recommend removing door handle on the dispenser side. Would make installing one of the screws much easier. But you have to remove 2 small hex screws to remove handle.

A plastic guide rail broke after the meat keeper drawer was left open and the refrigerator door was shut on the drawer, this has happened a few times over the last 6 years. We chose to change out both rails at the same time. We removed the meatkeeper drawer, then the shelf above as the rails are attached to the shelf. We removed the rails (one screw on each side. When the new rails came in, we replaced them with the screws. Super easy!

Went the typical route of part replacement since I don't own an ohm meter...pull and replace one part at a time. Started with the cheaper parts first, replaced the freezer fan for $40, same problem. Replaced the defrost heater element for $40, same problem. Replaced the thermostat $15 and controller board $150 at same time, bingo problem solved. Had to defrost with the hair dryer each time, biggest pain. Had an issue finding a Utube that showed the water filter system and thermistor removal for this model, otherwise straightforward, but not a 30 minute job.

Unplugged fridge from outlet. Removed rear panel on freezer side. Removed defrost thermostat from tube and cut wires. Installed new thermostat by matching color coded wires and crimping with supplied connectors and snap back on tube. Reinstalled panel and shelving.

Silly me. It couldn't possibly be the filter because it's worked for the last 9 months with no problems. Decided to replace the water filter base first. Repair was easy. I saw someone had trouble removing tubes from old base and I gave it a couple of tries to no avail so decided to cut the lines instead. Made it even easier. After repair, water continued to leak. So, replaced the filter itself and voila - leak fixed. Make sure you check the filter first. My mistake turned a $40 - 10 second repair into a $100 - 20 minute repair. Good Luck!

Unscrewed screw holding plastic clip on right hand top hinge. Unfasten two lags screws holding right hand top hinge. Lift door off bottom hinge. (Do not unfastened bottom hinge) Remove old plastic bearing and replace with new. Repeat aforementioned instructions in reverse order. DOG EASY.

First I removed two screws per rail and removed the old rails. I replaced with the new rails and used a nutdriver to secure in place. This was extremely easy and I fell like my fridge is brand new again.
You can do it!!!

Fantastic!
Sent in a brief description of problem and model number. Reply and description of other customers experiences guided us to the exact problem.
We ordered the part on Friday and it was here on Tuesday.
I prepared the freezer compartment for the removal of the old motor and on Sunday husband installed new Evaporator Fan Motor.

It works and is cooling like it did when it was new.

This has been a great experience as all repairmen wanted at least 60.00 to just come out and determine what the problem was. I can only imagine what the final bill would have been.

This was easy and inexpensive.

Thanks for all the help.

I removed the back cover and removed the clip holding the compressor- run capacitor and start relay. I replaced these 2 components and clean the dust from the frig., and from the bottom of the floor. I replaced the back cover ; Loss about $300 worth of meat when when the frig. failed. Then I thought that, during these turbulent times, there are many which don't have a refrigerator or any meat to place in it, The refrigerator is "running" normal again.

No problem, I Just pushed the plastic pin to the old support studs into the frig wall using a small screw driver and hammer and with pliers pulled the studs out to the wall of the frig being careful not to damage the wall. Then with pliers {needle nose} pulled the plastic pin out of the wall. Pushed the new support studs in the hole and tapped the plastic pin with a small hammer into the support stud. Replaced crisper drawer cover and glass shelf. Easy fix

removed ice maker box and disassembled crusher unit on front of box and installed new housing.

Followed instructions from others on the blog. Shut off water and electricity to the refrigerator. Removed the cardboard plate. Removed the old water valve. Cut the compression valves off and inserted the tubes into the new water valve. Attached the water valve bracket to the fridge. Tightened copper water supply.Turned on the water - no leaks. Plugged the fridge in. Tried the water and ice in the door. No leaks - everything worked perfectly. THANK YOU PARTS SELECT!

First I loosened the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...re-installed the new icemaker first attaching the wires and then fitting over the screw holders and tightened the screws. That was it!