59679519012 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

After removing the shelves and drawers to gain access to the End Cap unit. I removed the screws and detached the unit which was a little tricky without any actual drawing details. After removing the unit I had to undo the plastic temperature control arm without breaking same. I then transferred the shelve draw slide and reconnected the control arm assembly to the new End Cap unit . At that point it was a simple installation, the drawer works better then new. Note: I did find some loose packing material behind the End Cap assembly unit that might have caused the failure of the drawer and door mechanism during its original factory fabrication. Other than that the project was a complete success. Dick S.

My son (who does HVAC, but not appliance repair) did some investigating by taking front and back panels off and determined that the evaporator coil was freezing over because the defrost wire was not heating up. He and his girlfriend did some real-time internet searching for diagnostic info because NO control diagram was included with the refrigerator. He determined the problem was most likely the electronic control board. Ordered and installed a new board and the refrigerator is back to working fine. Took about 2 hours to diagnose the problem and 1/4 hour to actually install the control board. Kind of disappointing that this control board failed when the refrigerator was less that 4 years old.

The video was a great help. I was able to replace gaskets on both doors with out taking them off and no tools were needed.
One of the refrigerator doors has a plate that closes with the door that makes replacing the gasket questionable but I was able to do it with no problem.

There was little or almost nothing to change out the End Cap, two screws on the End Cap and two screws on slide. It took longer to removed and replace the two drawers and shelve than it did to replace the End Cap. The part I ordered was exactly what I needed.

Pop off vent cover remove 2 screws removed cover housing and foam. Removed damper by unclipping tabs on left and right side of control lift up and out. Unplugged power wires reinstalled in reverse order.

The old gasket peeled out easily. No tools needed. The replacement gasket fit right in the groove. I did not need to immerse the gasket in warm water or use a hair dryer. Nifty trick: once the new gasket is in place, close the freezer door. Run your finger in the center groove of the gasket, which will push the magnet against the fridge. Leave the door closed for an hour. The gasket has then assumed a perfect fit and will continue to fit perfectly.

Top bottom then sides took about 15 min

Followed your instructions: gasket came coiled in the box and was slightly curled up. Both left & right side of gasket were linked. Followed your instructions to properly restore the shape. Pulling the old gasket off and installing the new one took just a few minutes

Easy fix, it's right in the back of the fridge under a cover that just clips in, a piece of foam, and two screws. The hardest part is getting the clips free without breaking them. After replacement it's silent instead of making a grinding noise regularly.

Awesome! Couldn't ask for it any better. I watched the video from Partselect multiple time and was just as easy as they said it would be. It took me longer to watch the video four times than it did for me to install it. I have a habit of 10 minute projects turning into a couple hours and this took about 10 minutes. Thanks.

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

Just pulled the old one off with fingers, and pressed the new one in place.

.screw held in the center of the rail,pull it out,slide the rail up off the support brackets on the door,unplug the old one & plug in the new one,slide on, & replace the screw! That Easy

Very simple--Just remove all drawers, remove old end cap, remove slider from old end cap and put on new one. Screw on new end cap and replace drawers. Took about 10 minutes.

First, I took out the glass tray along with the two slide out compartments that are part of that assembly. Then I used a small socket set to take out the three screws that hold the part in place and along with the part a plastic connector comes out with it that adjusts the temp of the bin area. Line up the holes on the slider and two screws come out that hold the slider to the part. Disconnet the plastic piece in the back that adjusts are flow (press down plastic holders) Reattach the slider, snap the plastic piece on the back and reassemble. Sounds complicated but once you are in there, its self explanatory.