59679519012 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

It was a very simple operation and was done in no time.

Doing it myself saved me at least $100.00 or more.

I was very happy and satisfied with the part and how doing it myself saved me a lot of time and money.

(1) Slide out appliance and remove power source. (2) Removed lower access cover on rear of refrigerator. (3) Disconnected plug to the condenser fan motor. (4) remove blades by pulling gently forward (5) remove mounting hardware holding the fan motor (3 screws) (6) motor is now free and new motor can be installed

The digital display numbers (0= off and 7=coldest setting) controlled by the ECB would continually be replaced by straight lines, and the refrigerator would stop cooling. I tried unplugging it for a while. After plugging it in again, it worked (the digital display came on, I set it to "4" and it reached the proper temp), but the problem occurred again the following day, and then it stopped cooling entirely. I ordered the ECB, and it arrived in 3 business days. I watched the installation instruction video, took my time, double-checked the vid a few times to make sure I was doing it correctly, and replaced the ECB by myself in less than an hour. The refrigerator has been running without problems for 3 weeks now. My fridge had a different light bulb configuration than the one in the video, but everything else was the same, and it was a simple repair.

I broke the left side end cap the holds the pantry door on.
I search the internet for the part and happened to run across part select. I order the part and received the part with in 3 business days. It took less than 30 minutes to replace the end cap.

The great reviews help me with my choice to order the part from part select. I will order parts from them again.

Thanks for helping me fix my fridge.

I ordered a right & left gasket but when they arrived there was no indication of which was the right or left one...so I just had to guess...I easily lifted the old gasket away from the door & removed. Then starting at the top began inserting the portion that goes into the groove with the help of the table knife, continuing down both sides..then sat on a stool to push the bottom section into place...Had to go back over several areas to reseat but finally closed the door to hopefully set the gasket..Drank some hot tea, then removed the left gasket & began the process all over...The extra flaps ended up on the left side of the door so I may have to remove this side and reposition...I'll check it in a few..then will blow all with a warm setting of the low dryer to continue helping the molding process..

I replaced the control board first. The freezer back panel frosted up and the refrigerator warmed up again. Then I force (short option vs long) defrosted the refrigerator. However, a few days later the defrost issue came back again. Force defrost no longer worked, though likely due to a severe ice build up behind the freezer panel. I ordered the wire harness. I took off the freezer door (loosen four screws only), removed the tray rails, ice maker, thermostat housing and vent mounted on the freezer panel. The rails and the vent are a bit tricky to remove since no directions exist. I then removed the fan above the coils and then removed the wire harness. Installing the new harness is easy except that I had to modify one of the ground connections for it to mount properly. I tested the unit for 72 hours. The defrost cycle eventually kicked in (dripping onto a pan and sizzling sound). I then reinstalled all parts. No frost build up. Good to go!

I searched the internet for the correct part and reviewed the instructions on the internet. Upon ordering the correct part I was provided a link to a video that walked me through step by step. The very first thing I did was unplug the refrigerator.I then located the control board located in the housing in the ceiling of the refrigerator. Using a screwdriver I was able to carefully separate the housing from the refrigerator ceiling . Unplugged the housing and then had to separate the plastic housing to locate the control board. Ran into a little difficulty at first separating the plastic tabs but with a screwdriver carefully pried the tabs. Once completely open is where the control board was. More plastic tabs holding the control board in place. Carefully separated the board from the tabs. The were two plugs that needed to be separated from the board. Used a screwdriver to get the plugs separated.The new board you had to bend carefully at a joint so the board became two pieces. Snapped the boards in place. Plugged the board in two spots. Put the housing together and put the housing in place in the refrigerator. Plugged the refrigerator in. All lights came on and then had to program the board. The instructions were spit on. The code is located inside the fridge were the model tag is. Programmed correctly. Word of advice read the directions a few times you can't go wrong. So far it's day 7 after I installed the board and no ice building up. According to the internet the control board controls the defrost function on my model. Very happy. I'm still watching the freezer but I'm pretty sure I fixed my matter. Thanks for sending the right part and the video. Repair went well. Just take your time and go easy because everything involved is plastic. I didn't want to break any tabs I had to deal with.

Followed the video and installed the new Jazz board. The board cam in 1 piece which had to be separated into two pieces, but the scored area on the board made it less intimidating. At the same time I replaced the two incandescent lamps in the refrigerator area with LED lamps. Getting the housing for the control board apart was the most difficult part, installing the replacement board was a breeze.

Loosen 4 screws remove door wipe off frost pull old gasket out of slot push in new gasket instal door that was it. No help need.

Took off old cover 3 screws...removed metal track and 2 other plastic sliding bars for air flow..put on new cover and carefully put back deli cover on plastic pins..easy fix...lousy design by maytag again! Thanks to PartSelect easy and prompt service and delivery!

After removing the shelves and drawers to gain access to the End Cap unit. I removed the screws and detached the unit which was a little tricky without any actual drawing details. After removing the unit I had to undo the plastic temperature control arm without breaking same. I then transferred the shelve draw slide and reconnected the control arm assembly to the new End Cap unit . At that point it was a simple installation, the drawer works better then new. Note: I did find some loose packing material behind the End Cap assembly unit that might have caused the failure of the drawer and door mechanism during its original factory fabrication. Other than that the project was a complete success. Dick S.

take out two nut driver screws remove piece, take off track two philips head screws. transfer temp control rod, really easy then put track back on and install piece. probable took as long to remove the two veg crispers and glass top. this is a very easy fix. i did notice that the pin on the original was about 3/8 of an inch forward so flapper door did not quite line up and im sure caused the pin to snap off. the replacement part, the pin is exactly the same position as the other side. i believe the original was defective from the mfgr.

This took 30 seconds. Lift out shelf glass, remove broken pieces, snap new part into place.

Awesome! Couldn't ask for it any better. I watched the video from Partselect multiple time and was just as easy as they said it would be. It took me longer to watch the video four times than it did for me to install it. I have a habit of 10 minute projects turning into a couple hours and this took about 10 minutes. Thanks.

There was little or almost nothing to change out the End Cap, two screws on the End Cap and two screws on slide. It took longer to removed and replace the two drawers and shelve than it did to replace the End Cap. The part I ordered was exactly what I needed.