59657006600 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Instructions were great five minutes to remove and replace fan....Thank You............ saved big money

Took ice tray out, removed plastic decorative cover, remove the four nuts under the cover, slide out the ice auger assembly as one piece. do not take auger assembly apart. I repaired mine once, difficult without a schematic picture, many parts, replaced everything back into the new ice bucket. Easy job!

Removed ice container, replaced end cap that holds Auger shaft that connects to shaft that turns the Auger. End cap plastic nubs wear where it makes contact to the turning stub. Removing a few screws on the front of ice container allows the Auger shaft to slide forward and away from the end cap. Maneuver end cap from shaft, replace using same maneuver and that is it.
Pretty easy, even for a novice like me. A $6.00 end cap verses the whole assembly at around $70.00
I'm pleased.......

The Ice maker unit had to be removed and the shaft had to also be removed, which required dis-assembling the motor drive. The thickness of the shaft and the bearing fill cup prevents it from simply pushing it in place. Other than that I have Ice.

The water valve for the ice maker / front water dispenser was relatively simple to repace. I never used these platic type of connectors to for the platic water tubing, but read a couple articles on how they work - I'm glad I did. To remove the tubing, you have to press the platic rings toward the valve, then the tubing slides right out. Just push the tubing into the ring to seat it. A handful of screws hold the valve and cover in place.
The new valve works, and I have a functioning ice maker again.

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

Took the front panel off,replaced the parts inside on the door ,Replaced the panel ,Tested
Now found out that it is the solniod that is bad ,Part on order ,Thanks

Ordered new fan motor
Got part took fridge apart
Result was the motor was running
The fan blade had come off the motor
Replaced the motor anyway and reinstalled the fan, working well

Removed the 3 screws that hold the ice maker in place and remove the cover and level wire. Put the cover and wire on new part and install the 3 screws. Had ice within 1 hour. A very easy job for the do it yourselfer. Suspect the heat coil that melts the cubes was not working in the old unit and cubes stayed in the tray.

Wrong part, found the problem. Start with the thermostat, controls both when to start and stop the defrost cycle. Not the defrost heater or the timer.

Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.

This was the third icemaker replaced since January 1999. Improvement need to be made in the design of the icemaker so that more than 2-3 years of life is available.
The most difficult part was disconnecting the power plug in the back of the icemaker. You must squeeze the upper and lower tabs together and pull out at the same time to disconnect. Once this is done, take out one nut head screw, lift up on the icemaker and remove from the hanger. Be careful that you don't break the plastic tabs on the hangers. Replace new icemaker in reverse, feed water supply where it must go in the back, resnap onto hangers, replace the nut head screw and snap in the power plug. It took about 2 hours before the icemaker began making ice. It has been working fine ever since. PS. I saved about $200.00 over having a repairman come in and replace the unit.

removed old ice maker by taking out a couple of screws in the back of freezer,when new ice maker arrived i saw that it didn't have the same hose apparatus as old one so I easily took apart old one then took apart new one and switched them out-very-- easily done for a 61 yr old lady I might add-- also had to reinstall ice maker arm off old ice maker as new one does not come with one Then installed new ice maker in freezer I am very very pleased,sure saved a lot of money doing it my self

Unplugged refrigerator.
Removed water drip tray.
Removed two Phillips screws.
used putty knife to
get behind outer plate and popped it off.
Disconnected electrical connections.
Removed the 4 nut driver screws.
removed ice maker door.
Removed seal around old Ice shoot flap and cleaned.
Removed insulator pad from old ice maker flap and cleaned.
Installed seal and insulator pad on the new chute door.
clipped new chute door intact with seal and pad in place and snapped the top clips into place.

Reversed procedure to reinstall refrigerator parts.

Plugged in refrigerator and tested. Had no issues.

First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!