5967954201 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Two screws hold each of the panels onto the refrigerator. Two more screws hold the metal drawer guides. Once the panel is released from the refrigerator, the metal drawer guides need to be transferred to the new panel. This step is repeated for the right side panel. The right side panel contains the air flow mechanism controlling how much cold air is released into the pantry drawer. It is attached by a network of plastic tabs which need to be pushed back in order to release the mechanism from the panel. A flat screwdriver is helpful to do this. I'm not positive that the air flow mechanism along the back of the refrigerator went back into place correctly; it seemed to sag a bit as it's not attached by screws.

Removed the 3 bottom drawers and shelves. Removed 4 screws from the old parts. Removes the screws from the existing guide rails and transferred them to the new parts. Put everything back in , in reverse order. Just take your time and do not over tighten things.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

Slid the new glass in place

I watched a YouTube video real quick to see what I had to do and got to the job at hand. I removed the old gasket by pulling it out of the track and bring it around the front of the drawer. I wiped down the entire area where the new one would go and started inserting it into the groove, making sure it went in completely in on the bottom. I was done in less than 15 minutes. Super easy! This fixed the issue and the freezer door closes fully.

ordered part -- great delivery-- 3 days--- removed damaged bracket and replaced with new --- very easy to order correct part per web pg thanks

I did exactly what the email I got said to do: remove the 2 crisper drawers, remove the glass directly above the crisper drawers, drop in the center rail. It worked just GREAT! Thanks a bunch!

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

First I removed the two vegetable bins. I then removed the glas top shelf from the pantry and removed the pantry drawer. There were 3 screws that held the pantry end cap to the interior of the refrigerator. I removed the three screws. I then lifted up the front end of the end cap allowing it to snap free. I then snapped the new end cap in place and reinstalled the screws. The rest was just reversiing the drawer installations.

Pushed on new one as directed online.

Easy- took off fruit and veg drawers out. Added support under the glass in middle. Put drawers back. For Utility door just replaced.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Removed cover ,two veggie bins, glass glass shelf, all took 10 min. It took longer to wipe clean every thing I installed the new end cap with 3 screws, I had to add one of my own as the factory only used 2 the rear one was not installed.it didn't matter.One thing that I didn't like was the parts came with no info, but my 40 years of working for air lines made the job easy for me.

Pretty simple, remove the pantry lid, drawers above glass pantry cover and then the glass cover and its metal supports.
Then the pantry tray from its metal slides.
Remove the slides then the broken end cap.
The slides and end caps are attached with 1/4 inch hex drive screws.
I did notice a small change in the new end caps which will improve the
strength of the problem tab. I do not expect the same problem again.

The glide was very easy to put on; however it is easiest to put in the front screw first, due to the thickness of the glide. Pretty easy!