59679242013 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.

Removed the ice tray with nut driver underneath after removing and unplugging ice machine. Then by remembering, unplugged the necessary electric connectors because electric worked well(replaced electric last time I got a new assembly). Plugged in electric needed, not all (again I'm saying that), then fit back assembly with nut driver underneath.

I followed the video provided by Part Select. I also let the refrigerator stay unplugged overnight with all the doors open. This p-trap kit has fixed the leaks out of the front of the refrigerator. There is no ice build-up in the freezer. Perfect!

Pulled the unit out after reminding myself how to do so on the internet.

Replaced bad assembly with new. Not for the average person, some basic mechanical know-how needed.

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

Removed rear cover, removed fan and than drip tray. install new tray and reassemblied

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Watched you tube video,.....followed,....went very well.....picked the right wiring harness,.....no problems.......making ice in 1 hour

No tools required, but you must be careful not to shove or jam this kick plate into place as it is a plastic part and not really very sturdy. This is the second time I have replaced the kick plate and PartSelect has always been knowledgeable, polite, and helpful
!!

Turn ice maker off
Remove ice tray
Remove side panel cover
Unplug ice machine
Slide ice machine out remove bottom section
Install new ice machine

Very good instruction videos on you tube.

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

I followed the video instructions.
When it got to removing any pucker from shipping, I chose putting the gasket in a tub with hot water rather than using the option to use a hair dryer, on places I thought needed the heat.

The option worked perfectly, except with the first gasket I did not dry all the water from parts of the new gasket, so some fell on the floor as the gasket was inserted into the refrigerator door.

Switched the drain out using the video tutorial
Fixed the problem
Have had no more drain issues

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Removed the plastic frame, washed the frame and fridge, set new glass into the frame.