59672252202 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the 3 screws that hold the ice maker in place and remove the cover and level wire. Put the cover and wire on new part and install the 3 screws. Had ice within 1 hour. A very easy job for the do it yourselfer. Suspect the heat coil that melts the cubes was not working in the old unit and cubes stayed in the tray.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Very easily removed top shel glass above crisper--removed old rail by lifting up--and place new one in slots provided---simple!! Part was delivered in less than 3 days-------very fast and cheap !!!

replaced inlet valve per insert with part, easy

Total time 10 minutes. 9 minutes to clear out the food and 1 minute to install the part. Installation was self evident and could have been done blindfolded. Part just snapped in.

Remove 1 screw under ice maker. Gently pull downwards to unhook ice maker. Disconnected 4 pin wire connector. Remove and set aside the cover and wire loop you will need on new ice maker. Reverse the steps to install new maker. Once new ice maker is installed you will have to wait 2-4 hours for ice. There is a thermostat that will need to reach 10 degrees F to operate.

Very easy to order from parts select. Took seconds to replace.

On the back of the refrigerator, I unscrewed and removed the lower-right panel. As I peeled the insulation off the panel, the insulation would disintegrate, so I used a vacuum-cleaner hose to remove most of the insulation. I removed the remaining adhesive with my fingers. I peeled the backing off the new insulation, and stuck it to the panel.

I had ordered two pieces of insulation, hoping to also replace the insulation behind the compressor, but removing the compressor was complicated and risky, so I returned the second piece of insulation.

The parts were very easy to replace, however I am still without ice and cannot figure out why. I have ohm tested the contol unit and everything works fine, I am able to jump it and turn on the motor and water fill valve. Any suggestions?...

First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!

Cut old fill tube into pieces, removed and replaced with new tube. Extremely easy.

Thermostat kit it only had one connector. Fortunately I had a small wire nut that I used on the other wires.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

We noticed that items if the fridge portion of the refrigerator were starting to go bad before they should have and that the items in the freezer were not solidly frozen at times. I actually had two parts that needed to be replaced on my refrigerator, the relay assembly located near the compressor and the temperature control switch located in the freezer section. My fridge was making a clicking sound several months before it stopped working. I used the symptoms link on the website to help me locate what part might be the culprit and found the relay switch near the compressor bad and replaced it. A few days later we still had the same problem of both the fridge and freezer not being cold enough. Turns out the temperature controller in the freezer was just barely turning on when it would get warm enough in the freezer section. Once that part was replaced the refrigerator worked like new. It took me a while to find both problems since one was masked by the other but the website was a great help in finding both and getting the parts to fix everything.

My freezer compartment gasket was torn and needed replacement. This was on a bottom freezer Kenmore refrigerator. I couldn't find directions for how to take the freezer compartment door off, and figuring out how was the hardest part. Here are the instructions:
1. At least 24 hours prior to starting, remove the gasket from the packaging and lay it out in a warm area, to allow the creases to come out.
2. Unplug the refrigerator.
3. You will have to take BOTH doors off, so put at least the freezer compartment contents in a cooler so they don't thaw. Also remove all items from the refrigerator and freezer door.
4. Remove the refrigerator door first - remove the plastic cover from the top hinge, then remove the 3 metal screws holding the hinge in place. Lift the door up, and it will come right off. Set it aside.
5. Now remove the freezer door - there is one bolt head, for the top hinge pin. Remove it, and lift the door up and put it down on a table.
6. Towards the center, pull up on the old gasket, and use a pair of diagonal cutters to cut it in half. It will take a few cuts, but eventually you will get it out and cut in half. Then remove the old gasket.
7. The new gasket simply presses in. Start at two diagonal corners, then press the other two corners in, then do the straight sections.
8. Now replace the freezer door, then the refrigerator door, plug in the refrigerator, and put the contents back in.