36359479990 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Peter from Marietta, GA
- Parts Used:
- WR02X11330, WR17X2891
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench set
Refrigerator water dispenser tube (5/16"OD) broken at the back by valve
Tube was too short so I used the union to attach additional tubing to reach the valve at the lower rear of refrigerator
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- Customer:
- JOSEPH from SURFSIDE, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR02X11330, WR17X2891
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Cold water for door - leaked on floor
Pulled new tubing to the tank and put a union about 8 inches down from tank to new tubing. Great repair. Parts not readily available locally.
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- Customer:
- Susan from Polson, MT
- Parts Used:
- WR62X107
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Ice trap door would not open
1. Unplug refrigerator or flip breaker to kill power to the refrigerator.
2. With hands, gently pull the bottom lip of the 3" X 11" face plate panel above the dispenser head.
3. Remove the 4 screws that are under the removed panel.
4. Tip the assemby down to reveal 2 plugs.
5. Gently pull the 2 plugs to disconnect.
6. Open the assembly to reveal the solenoid.
7. There are 3 screws at the base of the solenoid. The center screw attaches to the green ground wire.
8. Remove the three screws.
9. Observe: The bracket at the top of the solenoid unit tucks behind a 4th screw above the solenoid. You may need to loosen this screw to relesae the solenoid.
10.Unplug the yellow and red connector to the solenoid. It should not be totally free to remove.
11. Put the plunger into the solenoid. Note that the plunger has an opening to insert the white plastic trigger for the trap door. Make sure the trigger is inserted into this opening before reassembling.
12. Plug the yellow and red connector into the new solenoid.
13. Position the new solenoid to match the screw holes. The bracket at the top of the solenoid tucks under the 4th screw. Tighten as necessary.
14. Insert the green ground wire into the middle screw hole at the base of the solenoid and tighten.
15. Insert the two screws to either side of the ground wire and tighten.
16. Gently reconnect the two plugs.
17. Tip the assembly back into place making sure the trap door and hoses are lined up correctly.
18. Replace the 4 screws.
19. Snap the face plate back into place.
20. Turn on the power and give it a try!
I used other instructions provided by customers on the website. They were very useful.
This is the second time we replaced this unit. The first replacement failed within the one-year warranty period. I called customer service and they had a replacement part and refund for the previous part on its way immediately. Excellent service!
2. With hands, gently pull the bottom lip of the 3" X 11" face plate panel above the dispenser head.
3. Remove the 4 screws that are under the removed panel.
4. Tip the assemby down to reveal 2 plugs.
5. Gently pull the 2 plugs to disconnect.
6. Open the assembly to reveal the solenoid.
7. There are 3 screws at the base of the solenoid. The center screw attaches to the green ground wire.
8. Remove the three screws.
9. Observe: The bracket at the top of the solenoid unit tucks behind a 4th screw above the solenoid. You may need to loosen this screw to relesae the solenoid.
10.Unplug the yellow and red connector to the solenoid. It should not be totally free to remove.
11. Put the plunger into the solenoid. Note that the plunger has an opening to insert the white plastic trigger for the trap door. Make sure the trigger is inserted into this opening before reassembling.
12. Plug the yellow and red connector into the new solenoid.
13. Position the new solenoid to match the screw holes. The bracket at the top of the solenoid tucks under the 4th screw. Tighten as necessary.
14. Insert the green ground wire into the middle screw hole at the base of the solenoid and tighten.
15. Insert the two screws to either side of the ground wire and tighten.
16. Gently reconnect the two plugs.
17. Tip the assembly back into place making sure the trap door and hoses are lined up correctly.
18. Replace the 4 screws.
19. Snap the face plate back into place.
20. Turn on the power and give it a try!
I used other instructions provided by customers on the website. They were very useful.
This is the second time we replaced this unit. The first replacement failed within the one-year warranty period. I called customer service and they had a replacement part and refund for the previous part on its way immediately. Excellent service!
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Broken drawer slides.
Pretty much self explanatory.Removed drawer and anything on top of glass shelf.Remove two screws holding on slide.Replace with new slide.Repeat on other side.Replace shelf and drawer.
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- Customer:
- James from St. Louis, MO
- Parts Used:
- WR57X10023
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
the connection on the valve was stripped
After trying to reconnect a flexible hose to the water valve several times I stripped the connection to the water valve, causing it to have a slow leak.
Twice I tried to have an appliance parts store order the part without success. (I even brought them the part from the refrigerator to show them how it looked. ) they ordered the wrong part two times and then said they could not figure out what part I needed.
Finally my wife and I went on line, keyed in the model number and searched for parts of the refrigerator related to the ice maker. We saw the correct part and ordered it ourselves.
It was a success. I changed the part within 30 minutes and the ice maker has been working ever since. I would search and find a part on my own again before trusting someone who supposedly sold parts as their business.
Twice I tried to have an appliance parts store order the part without success. (I even brought them the part from the refrigerator to show them how it looked. ) they ordered the wrong part two times and then said they could not figure out what part I needed.
Finally my wife and I went on line, keyed in the model number and searched for parts of the refrigerator related to the ice maker. We saw the correct part and ordered it ourselves.
It was a success. I changed the part within 30 minutes and the ice maker has been working ever since. I would search and find a part on my own again before trusting someone who supposedly sold parts as their business.
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- Customer:
- Ron from ORANGE, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR30X10093
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Unit had stopped making ice
Ordered the icemaker replacement. unplugged the unit, followed the simple instructions and got it done in less than 30 minutes. It did take a LONG time to start making ice. But it's working now.
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from Pompano Beach, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR57X10022
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
Water leaking from refrigerator
First, I moved the refrigerator out from the wall, unplugged from the electrical outlet, disconnected the copper tubing to the refrigerator, removed screws holding the cardboard backing, removed the nuts holding the assembly to the refrigerator and pulled it out. At that point, I disconnected the tubing units and wiring connectors from the assembly one by one attaching to the new assembly as I went.
However, this was not possible in the case of two wiring connectors. Evidently, the replacement part was made differently than the original. I had to rewire the replacement part as it allowed and then put the reconnected assembly back in place. I then placed the cardboard panel and reattached the copper tubing. Everything is working and no more leaks!
However, this was not possible in the case of two wiring connectors. Evidently, the replacement part was made differently than the original. I had to rewire the replacement part as it allowed and then put the reconnected assembly back in place. I then placed the cardboard panel and reattached the copper tubing. Everything is working and no more leaks!
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- Customer:
- Jim from Jacksonville, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR17X2059
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
crushed ice feature inoperative, broken pieces in water dispensed.
Found broken pieces of deflector in delivered ice. Removed dispenser, carefully disassembled it, marking fasteners, sprimgs, and levers. Local repaimen say no replacement part available, must replace entire ice maker @ $350. Found exact part in your online reference, ordered at price of $3.76, part arrived two days later--perfect fit, exactly same as original. Reassembled, and it works exactly like new. Family very happy. Good job!!!!!
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- Customer:
- Robert from Orlando, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR55X129
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
ice being made but would not dispense
Easy repair. Snapped cover off control panel. Removed 4 phillips head screws on control board assembly. Removed (2) connectors from assembly and pulled out defective unit. Installed new control board in reverse order. Everything now working. Very fast and easy repair once you have the part.
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broken drawer rail (cheap plastic poorly engineered)
remove screws from broken rails and install new rails with screws.
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Plastic drawer side rails broke. The rails and the drawers seem very flimsy for the cost of the refrigerator.
Very simple fix. Unscrewed broken drawer rails and replaced with the new. No big deal. But again, these seem very flimsy for this model of refrigerator. they should use metal drawer rails with rollers to better accomodate the wieght of produce in the drawers.
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- Customer:
- Mark from Albuquerque, NM
- Parts Used:
- WR72X239
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
slide rail broke causing shelf to fall
repair was simple removed glass shelf and removed the two screws holding rail in place. I was really amazed at the quick service that I had receiced, I ordered two of the same part and they had the instructions to send back the additional part in my email the next day. Thanks for your help.
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- Customer:
- Bruce from Mobile, AL
- Parts Used:
- WR2X4550
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Drive cup broke due to ice cube jamming it
Remove three screws insert part; manually checked out drive and waited for ice to buildup and it worked like new.
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- Customer:
- Phillip from Springfield, VA
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11653
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Ice chute frosted up
Procedure for Replacing the Ice Chute Plate
1. Turn off the power.
2. Snap off the outside trim ring. Use a plastic screwdriver to avoid scratching the cabinet.
3. Locate the three small holes below the control panel facing, just above ice chute. The center hole is not used. With a small, blunt, object (wire – blunted nail) that is slightly smaller than the holes, push up rather firmly up through the outer holes to release front control panel.
4. Remove the three wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out of retaining clip. Use caution: Excessive force will break clips.
5. Release the secondary panel by removing four screws (one in each corner).
6. Remove the flap assembly.
7. Clean all accessible areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. Rinse the cleaned area with clear water and thoroughly dry everything before re-assembling the panel.
8. Install the new flap assembly.
9. Re-installed everything in the reverse order and check the functionality.
10. Order a spare ice chute flapper to be ready for the next event.
1. Turn off the power.
2. Snap off the outside trim ring. Use a plastic screwdriver to avoid scratching the cabinet.
3. Locate the three small holes below the control panel facing, just above ice chute. The center hole is not used. With a small, blunt, object (wire – blunted nail) that is slightly smaller than the holes, push up rather firmly up through the outer holes to release front control panel.
4. Remove the three wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out of retaining clip. Use caution: Excessive force will break clips.
5. Release the secondary panel by removing four screws (one in each corner).
6. Remove the flap assembly.
7. Clean all accessible areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. Rinse the cleaned area with clear water and thoroughly dry everything before re-assembling the panel.
8. Install the new flap assembly.
9. Re-installed everything in the reverse order and check the functionality.
10. Order a spare ice chute flapper to be ready for the next event.
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- Customer:
- Ather from Commerce, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR17X3670
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Water Line Broke that brings water to the Door
First Remove the screw and cover from the left top front of the fridge using a Phillips Screw Driver # 2
Then using a nut driver 1/4 of inch (or Socket set)
remove the two nuts holding the door hinge keeping the door in closed position. Now unplug the electrical connector between the door and the fridge body(Simply pulling it apart) Now hold the door from the middle and raise it up so that it can slide out from the bottom hole, on the main body
Now place the door on a table or a flat surface(Put may be a sheet or some thing to prevent the finish from getting scratched) Now remove the nuts around the inner panel of the door(nut Driver or Socket set) Remove the old lining and discard .Install the new lines and then replace every thing in the reverse order.
Note : Before tighting the top nuts of the door, make sure you keep the door aligened so you would not have to do it after completeing the job.
Then using a nut driver 1/4 of inch (or Socket set)
remove the two nuts holding the door hinge keeping the door in closed position. Now unplug the electrical connector between the door and the fridge body(Simply pulling it apart) Now hold the door from the middle and raise it up so that it can slide out from the bottom hole, on the main body
Now place the door on a table or a flat surface(Put may be a sheet or some thing to prevent the finish from getting scratched) Now remove the nuts around the inner panel of the door(nut Driver or Socket set) Remove the old lining and discard .Install the new lines and then replace every thing in the reverse order.
Note : Before tighting the top nuts of the door, make sure you keep the door aligened so you would not have to do it after completeing the job.
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