59673509201 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- John from Swarthmore, PA
- Parts Used:
- 67002783
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Freezer too warm(everything melted), refrigerator too warm
Using socket wrench, took bottom right panel off on back side of refrigerator to expose compressor. It was very hot to touch, with no noise, signifying it wasn't working. It was a Tecumseh, TP142ar229b8. Evidently from internet search this is not a good brand. Turned off power at circuit box. Removed metal spring clip holding on white relay. Took off capacitor (black square piece) attached to relay. It was okay as I measured 15uF with multimeter. Disconnected electric cables to white relay by pulling off connector. Took off white relay with long cylindrical protrusion from compressor by pulling it straight off. Shook relay - pieces of ceramic fell out, indicating it was bad. Ordered and received new one (next day). Attached new relay to existing compressor by pushing it on. Replaced capacitor and electrical cables by pushing on. Replaced spring clip. Turned on power and compressor was working. Replaced bottom back panel.
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- Customer:
- Janet from Bend, OR
- Parts Used:
- WPW10289497
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The door bin on a friend's refrigerator had a crack in it that quickly grew to a much bigger crack.
You just take the old door bin out by sliding it up and replace with the new bin by sliding it down in the door.
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- Customer:
- Julie from Bronxville, NY
- Parts Used:
- WP67002224
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Dog ate toe grille
Snapped into place with the attached clips. Could not be easier. Really great service from PartSelect--got here faster than I expected. This was a great service--would recommend to everyone!
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- Customer:
- Debbie from Bluffton, SC
- Parts Used:
- EDR4RXD1
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The filter was clogged.
Replaced filter and the water started to flow like the Nile River and the ice maker came back to life.
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- Customer:
- Frederick from Hanover, MA
- Parts Used:
- WP67006506
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Power cord was cut
I removed the 5/16 inch hex head nuts holding the rear access panel where the power cord was connected. Once removed, I released the Molex plug and ground wire. I connected the new cord, screwed in the ground and installed the rear panel. Having the exact OEM part made the job quick and easy.
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- Customer:
- Daniel from Bellflower, CA
- Parts Used:
- W11227239
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Fridge side not cold when freezer is blasting cold
I knew it was either the thermostat or defrost control board. Checked resistance with multimeter across the thermostat and heater element. Both check out ok so I replaced the board and all is good. Board on my model was in the controls panel.
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- Customer:
- David L. from Red Rock, TX
- Parts Used:
- W10874836
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The orignal proberm was broken hinge on End Cap
There was little or almost nothing to change out the End Cap, two screws on the End Cap and two screws on slide. It took longer to removed and replace the two drawers and shelve than it did to replace the End Cap. The part I ordered was exactly what I needed.
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Ruth, MI
- Parts Used:
- D7824706Q
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
My old icemaker lost some of the nonstick surface and the ice didn't want to come out
I unhooked the wire harness from the ref. and took out three screws and pulled the old unit out. I than changed a few parts from the old icemaker to the new and reattached the new ice maker to the ref. and plugged the wire back in. everything is working fine. No problems. Also I was very happy with the ordering process. Thank you!!
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- Customer:
- Linford from Cedarville, NJ
- Parts Used:
- D7824706Q
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Icemaker would not fill with water.
Removed screw under ice maker. Tilted ice maker up to remove unit from upper two screws. Disconnected plug at rear of freezer. Attached wiring harness, baler arm and cover from old to new ice maker. Reinstalled in reverse order. Had ice within one hour. Very easy fix.
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- Customer:
- Richard from SAN FRANCISCO, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP67003426
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The refrigerator compartment kept getting warm.
The vents at the back of the freezer were constantly getting packed with ice. A repairman failed to spot the problem. I used Partselect's web site to do my own analysis and determined that it was the defrost thermostat.
I followed the web site's instructions, which were exceptionally good. Behind the rear wall of the freezer was a lot of ice on the cooling fins and heavily encrusted over the old thermostat. (It was not really difficult, but I am in my 70s and no longer do things like this on my own.)
After replacing the part, I checked the ohms of the old part and found it to be faulty. Since then, the refrigerator has been working great. I wish I had started here. The repairman I had hired replaced the "control board" at significant expense. I doubt very much that anything was wrong with the old control board.
Many thanks to Partselect for an exceptionally helpful web site.
I followed the web site's instructions, which were exceptionally good. Behind the rear wall of the freezer was a lot of ice on the cooling fins and heavily encrusted over the old thermostat. (It was not really difficult, but I am in my 70s and no longer do things like this on my own.)
After replacing the part, I checked the ohms of the old part and found it to be faulty. Since then, the refrigerator has been working great. I wish I had started here. The repairman I had hired replaced the "control board" at significant expense. I doubt very much that anything was wrong with the old control board.
Many thanks to Partselect for an exceptionally helpful web site.
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- Customer:
- Morten from SAN JOSE, CA
- Parts Used:
- W10874836
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Refrigerator Repair - How to Replace the Pantry End Cap
Broken bottom drawer lid mount
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- Customer:
- Michael from TAKOMA PARK, MD
- Parts Used:
- W11176463
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
The water supply line to the ice maker kept popping off after I replaced the water filter because an "ice plug" had formed in the fill tube, unbeknownst to me.
1. Turn your water OFF and pull the refrigerator out from the wall so you can access the back.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you can gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you can gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.
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- Customer:
- Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
- Parts Used:
- 8009
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
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- Customer:
- WADE from PILOT MTN, NC
- Parts Used:
- WP67003426
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
COILS WAS ICING ON REFRIGRATOR SOLID ICED FOUND ENTIRE COILS
CHECK DEFROST THERMOSTAT WITH VOLT OHM METER AND FOUND THERMOSTAT BAD ALSO OHMED OUT HEATER AND HEATER CHECKED OK INSTALLED HEAT SRINK CONNECTORS ON NEW DEFROST THERMOSTAT PUT SYSTEM BACK INTO O
PRATION ALSO CHANGED WATER FILTER ON REFERGRATOR
SYSTEM WORKING OK AND NO ICING OF COILS THANKS WADE BOYLES
PRATION ALSO CHANGED WATER FILTER ON REFERGRATOR
SYSTEM WORKING OK AND NO ICING OF COILS THANKS WADE BOYLES
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- Customer:
- Carl from EAST LYME, CT
- Parts Used:
- WP67003426
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Refrigerator would not cool, while the freezer kept food frozen and the ice maker worked fine. Also, noticed frost build up at the rear of the freezer compartment
First, turned off the circuit breaker. Then: 1. Removed all food, , wire sliding baskets, and the ice bin.
2. Removed ice maker by removing the electrical connector from the socket in the rear panel, removed the single bottom screw with a 1/4” nut driver, loosened the 2 top screws with a 1/4” nut driver, and lifting the unit up and off the 2 loosened screws.
3. Removed the freezer door by loosening the 4 screws( 2 on each side) with a 1/4” nut driver and then lifting the door face off the loosened screws.
4. The next task is to remove the panel at the rear of the freezer compartment: use a flat blade screw driver to compress the side clips that hold the ice maker electrical socket, pushing it into the space behind the rear panel, then removing the rear plastic cover in the center of the rear panel, and finally removing the thermistor cover on the right rear upper corner of the rear panel( separate the thermistor from this piece, threading it through the slot in the top of the plastic cover.
Now, the rear panel can be removed by removing the 4 1/4”” hex head screws with the nut driver and gently easing the panel from its position.
5. Now comes the hard part: the defrost thermostat and most of the surrounding “plumbing” was encased in ice. I used a hair dryer to melt the ice, which created an overflow of water drawing into the collection pan; get ready to mop up this water.
6. With ALL the ice melted( this took over an hour), I simply cut the 2 wires, stripped the feed ends, removed the defective unit, clipped the new thermostat to the copper tube where the old unit was clipped, cut excess wire/stripped the new wires and used 2 orange wire nuts to connect each wire.
Now all the parts and pieces can be reinstalled in the reverse order
2. Removed ice maker by removing the electrical connector from the socket in the rear panel, removed the single bottom screw with a 1/4” nut driver, loosened the 2 top screws with a 1/4” nut driver, and lifting the unit up and off the 2 loosened screws.
3. Removed the freezer door by loosening the 4 screws( 2 on each side) with a 1/4” nut driver and then lifting the door face off the loosened screws.
4. The next task is to remove the panel at the rear of the freezer compartment: use a flat blade screw driver to compress the side clips that hold the ice maker electrical socket, pushing it into the space behind the rear panel, then removing the rear plastic cover in the center of the rear panel, and finally removing the thermistor cover on the right rear upper corner of the rear panel( separate the thermistor from this piece, threading it through the slot in the top of the plastic cover.
Now, the rear panel can be removed by removing the 4 1/4”” hex head screws with the nut driver and gently easing the panel from its position.
5. Now comes the hard part: the defrost thermostat and most of the surrounding “plumbing” was encased in ice. I used a hair dryer to melt the ice, which created an overflow of water drawing into the collection pan; get ready to mop up this water.
6. With ALL the ice melted( this took over an hour), I simply cut the 2 wires, stripped the feed ends, removed the defective unit, clipped the new thermostat to the copper tube where the old unit was clipped, cut excess wire/stripped the new wires and used 2 orange wire nuts to connect each wire.
Now all the parts and pieces can be reinstalled in the reverse order
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