36348257897 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

We had to empty the freezing section, remove the 4 screws that held the back panel and defrost the coils. Then with the diagram we got from the internet, we removed the defroster and easily installed the new one and put the back panel back on. We did find later that it was still icing over so I ordered the thermostat and we installed it today.
It too was easy to install. We spliced the wires and hooked the new thermostat to the old wires and reinstalled the back panel. Hopefully this will solve the problem for us now.

Removing gasket by pulling it back to expose 1/4" screws and replacing with the new one was easy. What was a HORROR- was that the new gasket doesn't seal against the door properly, and door doesn't want to close at all. to remedy this we had to put packing tape along the outer portion of the gasket all along the door to hold it donw, in order for the door to close. This is "possibly" becuase I overtightended the screws that hold the metal brace that holds down the gasket. Don't make this mistake and if you do, packing tape is the answer.

When it was discovered there was a cooling problem in the refrigerator, I went to parts select web site and went through the troubleshooting section. Then I tested the defrost timer and the defrost element as directed by the web site. I then found out doing this, that is was the defrost timer. I ordered the part online and it was delivered THE NEXT DAY! I removed the bottom panel of the fridge, removed the screw holding the old timer, removed the wires, and reversed the procedure to install the new one. It has been 1 week, and everything is working great. Thank you PartSelect.
I have since then recommended you to a relative who was having the same problem. Thanks again.

1) Unplug Refrigerator. Remove all shelves and light shield in the freezer.
2)Remove panel covering refrigeration coils inside freezer in back. Two hex head screws w/nut driver.
3)Remove the defrost heater using phillips screw driver. Two screws.
4)Unplug two quick disconnect stakons and wires from heater.
5)Plug the wire coming down the right side into one side of the new heater and plug the shipped white wire into the other quick disconnect spade at the heater.
6)Install the new dual element defrost heater into the same place where the old was. Connections to the right.
7)Route the wire that was on the left across the top of the coils and down the right side.
8)Bring the existing wire from the left side down the right side and the white wire up the right side. Wires should not be tight at all and do not remove the tape at the stakon.
9)Now wires need to be cut (if necessary)and crimped together in the shipped stakon. This stakon looks like a wire nut.
10)Wires should be tucked gently into the styrofoam up and down the right side. Wirenut should be positioned so that water can not collect in it.
11)Replace the panel over the cooling coils.
12)Plug Refigerator back into the wall outlet. Put shelves and light shield back in.
13)My refrigerator is now working without a problem. It's been est two weeks.
Ice maker is also working correctly.

I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix
the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would
have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was
pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to
take the new part back out after the small challenge of putting it in.
The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still
good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from
a website even if it seems like a sure thing

Pretty much self explanatory.Removed drawer and anything on top of glass shelf.Remove two screws holding on slide.Replace with new slide.Repeat on other side.Replace shelf and drawer.

Instructions say run capacitor is by motor, but on this frige its in the refrigerator compartment. The capacitors looks different, one square and the other long

Unplug the fridge, then:
1) Remove food and shelves from freezer
2) Remove rear panel from inside freezer (panel that covers the evaporator coils)
3)Stare at all the ice covering the coils for 10 seconds!
4) Plug the drain hole in the bottom left side of the freezer (cork or plug made from rolled up paper towel), and place a big towel in the bottom of the freezer compartment to absorb the melting ice
5) Plug in a table fan and leave it blowing into the freezer compartment, at the iced-over coils. Come back in 30 minutes.
6) Ice should be all melted. Place the wet towel in a bucket.
7) Remove the little clip attached to the green wire from the top of the panel., and then remove the two top screws on either side of the panel covering the coils. Take out the panel.
8) Removed the two screws that hold the heater element in place at the bottom of the coils. Pull the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
9) Connect the wires to the new heater element, and screw it back into place. Put panel back, shelves in, turn fridge on. Fixed

I ordered the defrost heater and replaced that, also ordered the defrost thermostat but the old one looked fine so I did not replace that. Fridge and freezer have been working great, no more icing problems.

Thank You PartSelect!

repair was simple removed glass shelf and removed the two screws holding rail in place. I was really amazed at the quick service that I had receiced, I ordered two of the same part and they had the instructions to send back the additional part in my email the next day. Thanks for your help.

First I propped up the door. Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the hinge on. AT this point you do need someone else because the door swings loose. I attached the new bracket and lowered the door. It went verey smooth. I ordered the new bracket after reading the installation stories from others who just repaced the plastic pieces. Its worth the extra money to just put on a new bracket

First I disconnected the Power from the unit. Pulled out the freezer drawers and the ice machine used a 1/4 inch nut driver and removed the sheet metal from the back of the freezer exposing the evaporator coils. I defrosted the coils. Then I removed the two screws holding the defrost heater braket assembly and removed the two electrical connections from it. I then installed the new heater put everything back together(reverse of installation)and it works like a brand new fridge and freezer.

I just slide the new one in place, using exsisting sliders. I had to remove the old grab handle from old pan and snap it into place on new pan.

I removed all of the items in the refrigerator door. I then removed the top hinge cover with a Philips screwdriver, and removed the two machine screws holding the top hinge using a socket wrench. This allowed me to lift the door off the bottom hinge pins and set the door on its side. I removed the two screws holding on the broken bottom hinge cam riser block and replace it with the new one. After tighening it back with a socket wrench, I tried to put the door back in place. I asked my wife to hold the door steady while I lay on the floor to guide the door downward over the bottom hinge pin. I then replaced the top hinge screws and checked the door. It still didn't close on its own! I realized I had to loosen the top hinge screws and adjust the door so that it stands more vertically (evening the gap with the freezer door). With this adjustment, the door closes fine.

rerfrigator side not cooling After determinating that the defrost timer was running I turned it to defrost and watched tosee if frost started to melt. When it didn't I checked the heater with ohmeter, checked OK, so the only other component in the defrost system is the thermostat. Then just a matter of cutting and splicing wires and snapping the new thermost in place

I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.