59673504201 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

take out two nut driver screws remove piece, take off track two philips head screws. transfer temp control rod, really easy then put track back on and install piece. probable took as long to remove the two veg crispers and glass top. this is a very easy fix. i did notice that the pin on the original was about 3/8 of an inch forward so flapper door did not quite line up and im sure caused the pin to snap off. the replacement part, the pin is exactly the same position as the other side. i believe the original was defective from the mfgr.

Using socket wrench, took bottom right panel off on back side of refrigerator to expose compressor. It was very hot to touch, with no noise, signifying it wasn't working. It was a Tecumseh, TP142ar229b8. Evidently from internet search this is not a good brand. Turned off power at circuit box. Removed metal spring clip holding on white relay. Took off capacitor (black square piece) attached to relay. It was okay as I measured 15uF with multimeter. Disconnected electric cables to white relay by pulling off connector. Took off white relay with long cylindrical protrusion from compressor by pulling it straight off. Shook relay - pieces of ceramic fell out, indicating it was bad. Ordered and received new one (next day). Attached new relay to existing compressor by pushing it on. Replaced capacitor and electrical cables by pushing on. Replaced spring clip. Turned on power and compressor was working. Replaced bottom back panel.

After removing the shelves and drawers to gain access to the End Cap unit. I removed the screws and detached the unit which was a little tricky without any actual drawing details. After removing the unit I had to undo the plastic temperature control arm without breaking same. I then transferred the shelve draw slide and reconnected the control arm assembly to the new End Cap unit . At that point it was a simple installation, the drawer works better then new. Note: I did find some loose packing material behind the End Cap assembly unit that might have caused the failure of the drawer and door mechanism during its original factory fabrication. Other than that the project was a complete success. Dick S.

Took off old cover 3 screws...removed metal track and 2 other plastic sliding bars for air flow..put on new cover and carefully put back deli cover on plastic pins..easy fix...lousy design by maytag again! Thanks to PartSelect easy and prompt service and delivery!

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

I knew it was either the thermostat or defrost control board. Checked resistance with multimeter across the thermostat and heater element. Both check out ok so I replaced the board and all is good. Board on my model was in the controls panel.

You just take the old door bin out by sliding it up and replace with the new bin by sliding it down in the door.

There was little or almost nothing to change out the End Cap, two screws on the End Cap and two screws on slide. It took longer to removed and replace the two drawers and shelve than it did to replace the End Cap. The part I ordered was exactly what I needed.

Replaced filter and the water started to flow like the Nile River and the ice maker came back to life.

Awesome! Couldn't ask for it any better. I watched the video from Partselect multiple time and was just as easy as they said it would be. It took me longer to watch the video four times than it did for me to install it. I have a habit of 10 minute projects turning into a couple hours and this took about 10 minutes. Thanks.

I did a few tests with the old ice maker and determined that it was the ice maker itself that was faulty. The replacement part I ordered exceeded my expectations in the time it took to get the part. I reused the arm, wire harness and clamps from the old icemaker. Then it was a simple install into the bottom freezer compartment, turning on the water supply and bingo...lots of ice cubes.

I removed the 5/16 inch hex head nuts holding the rear access panel where the power cord was connected. Once removed, I released the Molex plug and ground wire. I connected the new cord, screwed in the ground and installed the rear panel. Having the exact OEM part made the job quick and easy.

I unhooked the wire harness from the ref. and took out three screws and pulled the old unit out. I than changed a few parts from the old icemaker to the new and reattached the new ice maker to the ref. and plugged the wire back in. everything is working fine. No problems. Also I was very happy with the ordering process. Thank you!!

Removed screw under ice maker. Tilted ice maker up to remove unit from upper two screws. Disconnected plug at rear of freezer. Attached wiring harness, baler arm and cover from old to new ice maker. Reinstalled in reverse order. Had ice within one hour. Very easy fix.