36348047891 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the screws that held the unit in place, and also the screws that held a plate that covered where the unit plugs in. I unplugged the unit, and removed it. Put the new one in, reversing the steps. Turned the new unit on, and had ice in 45 minutes! Summer is coming, I need my ice maker! This is the second unit I have replaced on this refrigerator, the first one was not releasing the cubes. This second one was a different style than the first, but same install process.

Removed old Ice maker and replaced with new Ice maker.

TURN WATER OFF TO REFRIDGE. TURN OFF ELECTRICITY.

Remove old ice maker (AFTER REMOVING THE BIG ICE TRAY) by disengaging two philips head screws but don't totally unscrew them. You must then totaly unscrew the bottom screw below the top two screws. Unplug the 5 head connection. (electricity)

Use adapter for the electrcity, etc from the box, (five head connection) Use the old plastic hose to hit the new cup. TIGHTEN TOP SREWS. LEVEL BY EYE. Turn the system on. Prime with some fresh water.

PS make sure that the light is on (green) and you will be in ice city. Be careful not to disengage the elcectic head when replacing the big ice tray.

HAVE A COCKTAIL!

I ordered both a new replacement ice maker, and a new solenoid/pump. They were delivered to my house within one day and I had them installed in a matter of an hour. I had to use the power extension cord supplied with the ice maker.

The new "quick connect" hose couplings on the new pump are great.

Ice hopper had no ice in it. But water in door worked and if I added ice to hopper, it would dispense in door. I added water to ice maker but no ice was made. Replaced ice maker and all it required was to unplug harness and remove two screws with nut driver. Easy!

Removed Ice Maker (2-Bolts)
Removed Ice Tray Screw Motor (to get to Ice Maker Plug- 4 small screws)
Installed new Ice Maker and reinstalled Ice Maker Screw Motor
Extreamly easy

I used a block of wood to hold up the door. Then unbolted the lower hinge from the fridge. That is when I found out that it was fine and it was the upper half of the hinge that was broken (worn).
So I unbolted the upper hinge (mounted on the bottom of door) It uses the same part. So I installed the part on the upper half of the hinge.

I wish somebody would have told me that you need 2 of these for each hinge. The bottom one was in good shape, lucky for me.

Thanks to the stories on PartSelect my wife and I knew what to expect. The biggest hassle was sawing off the rivet that's on the hinge on the refrigerator (my wife volunteered for that job). When we got everything back together the door worked a lot better, but still wouldn't close without a little push. In frustration and running out of time, we put the stuff back inside the refrigerator door and that did the trick! The weight was enough to allow the door to close on its own.

There was what seemed to be a half chewed up washer under the refig. door. The door wasn't closing all the way. DING!! Something was wrong!!

I looked up your schematic for the refrig door and decided what piece might have broken. It was a good guess and the part showed up a few days later.

I wedged up the refrig door to take the tension off the lower bracket. Then, just took off the bracket and replaced the broken door closing cam.

If a 74 year old guy can install an ice-maker in a 20 + year old fridge in 20, or so, minutes it must have had good pictures and BIG PRINT. Working quite well at this time!

I removed two screws at the top of the door, lifted the door off. I got lucky: the broken cam was the one on the door (easy to remove), not the one on the body of the refrigerator (tough to remove).
There is a shim which was also broken - no way to know that ahead of time. I bent a 5/8" lock washer flat and it served acceptably as a shim.
It would be helpful if PartSelect.com could include with its listing of the cam, the fact that (1) the shim will probably be needed, and (2) there's a very good chance that you'll need TWO of the cams as well.

Why don't they just tell you that you have to buy 2 cams. I have now replaced the cams on both doors. The other door broke about 4 years ago. Fortunately the first time I read the user commetns or I would've bought just one. It is a quick easy fix. The longest step is drilling out and replacing the rivet. Everything else is done with a nut driver.

removed top plate and raised the door off. I removed the L bracket from the fridge then noticed the part was rivited onto the L bracket. I cut the rivit and replaced the cam and used a small bolt and nut to sdecure it. Replaced the L bracket, the door, and the upper support. Only problem was the surprise rivit

Thought I would only need one when I looked at the picture of the parts. Decided to order two just in case and after taking it apart both were broken. Needed two.
Took the top door bracket off and lifted the door off of the bottom bracket. Re-assembled cams, put a little white grease on all moving parts, placed the door into bottom bracket and installed top bracket. Adjusted top bracket to make door line up with edge of refrigerator and all is well.

Removed refrigerator door and replaced bottom door pivot with the included mating cam and the door closing cam on the bottom of the door.

I didn't know that there were two mating cams and only ordered the door closing cam which I read online was the problem. It was the number one part on the part select list. The number two part was a kit including the door closing cam and the pivot with mating cam attached. It would have been helpful if there had been some notes that said check condition of both cams before ordering the part. So I have a spare door closing cam and paid an extra $19 including $8 shipping which negated a return.

The repair is easy - getting the right parts the first time is the trick.