36358772892 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.

Removed the ice maker from the freezer. Removed the switch. Tested the switch with a multimeter. Ordered a new switch. Replaced it in the box. Installed the ice maker ( 3screws and electric cord plug. It works. Details available on the internet.

This part (plastic tubing) does not show up under my model of refrig...so I had to look thru the various water lines and pick the one that "looked" right. Luckily, this is the exact replacement part and works perfectly. I removed the lower back panel from the fridge, removed the bracket holding the water line connectors and pressed the outer ring of the coupler up until it released the old water line. I pushed in the new line, made sure it was snug with a gentle pull and ran the line under the fridge up to the existing coupler. I removed the old line from the existing coupler under the front left of the freezer door, and pushed in the new line. I did not need to use the new coupler. If my old line would not have been so brittle and cracked in several places, I could have just cut out the leaking portion and popped the new couple in to mend the line back together. Easy job and we can stop buying bottled water at the store now!

Vacuumed the area around the compressor, removed the PTC relay switch cover, pried the broken relay switch off the unit with a screw driver and replaced with the new relay switch. Replaced the backing of the refrigerator and tested, within minutes the work was confirmed.

I removed the door from the fridge by taking off the screws that held the top plate on. I then removed the old broken cam from the door and the old hinge pin on the fridge and replaced them with new parts. I then put the door back on, screwed the top plate of the door into the top of the fridge, and with a few minor alignment adjustments with the freezer door, I was done.

When it was discovered there was a cooling problem in the refrigerator, I went to parts select web site and went through the troubleshooting section. Then I tested the defrost timer and the defrost element as directed by the web site. I then found out doing this, that is was the defrost timer. I ordered the part online and it was delivered THE NEXT DAY! I removed the bottom panel of the fridge, removed the screw holding the old timer, removed the wires, and reversed the procedure to install the new one. It has been 1 week, and everything is working great. Thank you PartSelect.
I have since then recommended you to a relative who was having the same problem. Thanks again.

Removed all the freezer shelves/trays. Removed screws top and bottom on back panel. Found coils completely frozen over. Used heat gun to completely melt all the ice. Found that the Defrost Heater actually includes a new Defrost Thermostat (unlike the service manual shows). Unplugged and unsrewed the old Defrost heater parts and unclipped the Defrost Thermostat. Installed the new parts, put everything back together, and returned the unneeded Defrost Thermostat for a refund. It's been working fine ever since.

Tube was too short so I used the union to attach additional tubing to reach the valve at the lower rear of refrigerator

Removed back panel from freezer by removing a few screws.. Unplugged refrigerator as not get shocked.. removed old heaters and thermostat and replaced with new ones and it's been working perfectly!!

I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.

Pretty much self explanatory.Removed drawer and anything on top of glass shelf.Remove two screws holding on slide.Replace with new slide.Repeat on other side.Replace shelf and drawer.

Ordered the icemaker replacement. unplugged the unit, followed the simple instructions and got it done in less than 30 minutes. It did take a LONG time to start making ice. But it's working now.

1. Unplug refrigerator or flip breaker to kill power to the refrigerator.
2. With hands, gently pull the bottom lip of the 3" X 11" face plate panel above the dispenser head.
3. Remove the 4 screws that are under the removed panel.
4. Tip the assemby down to reveal 2 plugs.
5. Gently pull the 2 plugs to disconnect.
6. Open the assembly to reveal the solenoid.
7. There are 3 screws at the base of the solenoid. The center screw attaches to the green ground wire.
8. Remove the three screws.
9. Observe: The bracket at the top of the solenoid unit tucks behind a 4th screw above the solenoid. You may need to loosen this screw to relesae the solenoid.
10.Unplug the yellow and red connector to the solenoid. It should not be totally free to remove.
11. Put the plunger into the solenoid. Note that the plunger has an opening to insert the white plastic trigger for the trap door. Make sure the trigger is inserted into this opening before reassembling.
12. Plug the yellow and red connector into the new solenoid.
13. Position the new solenoid to match the screw holes. The bracket at the top of the solenoid tucks under the 4th screw. Tighten as necessary.
14. Insert the green ground wire into the middle screw hole at the base of the solenoid and tighten.
15. Insert the two screws to either side of the ground wire and tighten.
16. Gently reconnect the two plugs.
17. Tip the assembly back into place making sure the trap door and hoses are lined up correctly.
18. Replace the 4 screws.
19. Snap the face plate back into place.
20. Turn on the power and give it a try!

I used other instructions provided by customers on the website. They were very useful.

This is the second time we replaced this unit. The first replacement failed within the one-year warranty period. I called customer service and they had a replacement part and refund for the previous part on its way immediately. Excellent service!

Pulled new tubing to the tank and put a union about 8 inches down from tank to new tubing. Great repair. Parts not readily available locally.

Procedure for Replacing the Ice Chute Plate
1. Turn off the power.
2. Snap off the outside trim ring. Use a plastic screwdriver to avoid scratching the cabinet.
3. Locate the three small holes below the control panel facing, just above ice chute. The center hole is not used. With a small, blunt, object (wire – blunted nail) that is slightly smaller than the holes, push up rather firmly up through the outer holes to release front control panel.
4. Remove the three wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out of retaining clip. Use caution: Excessive force will break clips.
5. Release the secondary panel by removing four screws (one in each corner).
6. Remove the flap assembly.
7. Clean all accessible areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. Rinse the cleaned area with clear water and thoroughly dry everything before re-assembling the panel.
8. Install the new flap assembly.
9. Re-installed everything in the reverse order and check the functionality.
10. Order a spare ice chute flapper to be ready for the next event.