59657585791 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- W from Nellysford, VA
- Parts Used:
- 833697
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Freezer too warm; noticed sides of refrigertor were warm
I saw on a partselect web site that these symptoms could be caused by a failed condensor fan motor. After removing the cardboard panel in back of the refrigerator I noticed the fan was not running when the rfigerator was. The fan was held in place by three brackets. I unscrewed the screws holding the fan motor to the brackets and also unscrewed one of the brackets to make room to pull the motor out. I cut the wires close to the motor. I removed the fan blade and secured it to the new motor. I had to reroute the old wires in order to have enough slack to use wire nuts to attach them to the leads on the new motor. I then re-attached the motor to the two brackets remaining in place and then re-attacehed the third bracket I had removed to get the motor out.. The most difficult part was working in a very confined space.
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- Customer:
- Shelley from Katy, TX
- Parts Used:
- D7824706Q
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Ice Maker was leaking water and causing the ice to freeze into a block
First I removed the Ice bin, I then loosened the ice bin rail under the ice maker and removed the screw that attached the bottom of the ice maker to the side of the fridge. I unplugged the power to Ice Maker from the back of the fridge and unscreewed the two screws that secured the ice maker to the fridge. This allowed the Ice Maker to be removed from the fridge. To replace the new ice maker I simply repeated the steps in reverse.
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- Customer:
- Ken from Waterford, MI
- Parts Used:
- WPW10247599
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
Water Dispensor in Door did not work
After I pull out the fridge, turn off and remove the water supply line. I removed the screws that held the water valve in place. Once I pulled the water valve out, I discounted the two internal water lines, (one for the ice cub tray and the water in the door) and then removed the two sets of wires connecting to it. I then replaced the Water Valve, reconnected the two sets of wires, replaced the two internal water lines, as well as the supply line. Srewed the water valve back in and tested the water in the door. Everything worked great.
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- Customer:
- Kevin from Tyler, TX
- Parts Used:
- D7824706Q
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Icemaker leaked water into ice bin causing a glob of ice
Philips head screwdriver and ten minutes was all it took! I removed the two screws that hold the icemaker assembly in place, then pulled it out a little and disconnected the electrical plug freeing the icemaker assembly. Then I snapped the external parts off my old icemaker assembly and snapped them on the new icemaker assembly. Installing the new icemaker assembly was just as fast and easy. I snapped the electrical plug into the new icemaker assembly, then screwed in the two screws. It was making ice shortly thereafter. Glob free ice! I'm glad I didn't call a repairman. I probably saved a hundred bucks. A ten year old could accomplish this simple and easy task. No wonder the Maytag repairman has time on his hands.
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Refrigerator & freezer not cooling / freezing
First of all, I do not have a history of repairing appliances or even the knowledge of what all the parts are named or how it all works. That said, please excuse my other than technical explanation of the repair. After reading a few posts, I decided to order the two parts and give it a try. The Defrost timer was easy to remove - two screws to remove the housing and two screws to remove the timer. The bimetal defrost thermostat was an easy installation - after removing the cover plate (back of freezer section) I removed the two wire caps that was connecting the existing thermostat to whatever it connects to - I guess the heating element and ? I was a little confused because the replacement thermostat had more wires that the existing one. I decided to cut away the extra wires and connect it just like the old one was connected. I didn't work at first and I was about to call in a pro. I turned the defrost timer knob and everything started to work. It has worked beautifully since and I got to brag a little to my wife - that was short lived because she reminded me of the other "stuff" that needed to be fixed! Thanks to the folks that posted before me - it helped me understand the problem and the repair.
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- Customer:
- Bob from Hesston, KS
- Parts Used:
- 833697
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set, Wrench set
The old motor wouldn't turn the fan.
After moving the refrigerator away from the wall I removed the cover on the lower back of the unit by removing the screws that held it in place. The condenser fan was not turning and there was heat build up in the area causing the refrigerator to not work properly creating elevated temperatures in both the freezer and regrigerator. Removal of three torx screws from the original motor was all it took to get the motor free. By turining it and working the fan blade around the mounting bracket I had the motor out in just a few minutes. Replacing the new motor was just as easy to reinstall. The fan was removed from the old motor and placed on the new for installation. The original motor was wired to accept a connector from the wiring harness of the refrigerator. I simply cut the connector off the wiring harness and stripped the insulation from the wires which easily allowed me to connet the wires of the motor and harness with two wire nuts. Three self tapping screws were used to hold the motor in place replacing the torx screws. Installed I plugged the unit in and immediately the fan started spinning as the unit came to life. Cleaned and replaced the cover over the back and slid back into its spot. Running as good as it did when it was new. Easy job to take care of.
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- Customer:
- Darrell from Pepperell, MA
- Parts Used:
- D7824706Q
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Ice Maker broke at the begining of summer !!!!!!
The new Ice Maker Assembly arived in less than 24 hours. I was amazed that it came so fast.
I had already removed the old ice maker in order to get the modle number.
I just took two parts off of the old ice maker and quickly snapped them into place on the new ice maker. Then attached it to the refrigerator in less than 10 minutes. With in a few hours I had ice again !!!!!
I would definatly use partselect.com again.
I had already removed the old ice maker in order to get the modle number.
I just took two parts off of the old ice maker and quickly snapped them into place on the new ice maker. Then attached it to the refrigerator in less than 10 minutes. With in a few hours I had ice again !!!!!
I would definatly use partselect.com again.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Blue Springs, MO
- Parts Used:
- R0181181
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Bottom freezer door hinge broke
I removed the plastic cover from the top hinge and loosened the screws. The magnet seal kept the door in place so I removed the top hinge and tried to lift the door off the bottom hinge but the water line wouldn't let it go. Since I don't use the water feature, I just cut the water line and lifted the door off. That's when I discovered the hinge pin was actually broken off, not just the cam. I went ahead and replaced the cam kit and put it temporarily back together, got right back on line and ordered the bottom hinge. The service was again very fast and in a couple of days I received the bottom hinge, repeated the whole process again and this time replaced the bottom hinge assembly, put some petrolium jelly on the cam kit and now it works smooth and perfect.
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- Customer:
- Sameul from Las Vegus, NV
- Parts Used:
- R0161092
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Thermostat would not work
First I removed the knobs, then the plastic cover over the thermostat. Then, I removed the two screws that hold it on. I removed the thermostat, unplugged the electrical leads, and pulled out the old thermostat. I then inserted the new one, hooked up the leads and reassembled.
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- Customer:
- Alfred from Port Charlotte, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10613606
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The compressor would try to start,but would not.
I pulled the whole unit(condenser&overload relay)
with my hand & disconnected the wire connected
to it & Replaced it with the new one.Peace of cake.
with my hand & disconnected the wire connected
to it & Replaced it with the new one.Peace of cake.
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- Customer:
- Elaine from Milton, FL
- Parts Used:
- R0181181
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Part of cam broke off bottom of fridg. door & it quit closing automatically
Took longer to move food from door to inside fridge & take grandkids' artwork off door, & then put it all back than it did to replace cam.
1. Used phillips head to undo 1 screw holding cover over top bracket; lifted off cover.
2. No need to have someone hold door while you remove top bracket; magnets in door gasket will hold it tight to fridge. Used socket to remove 3 screws in top bracket & lifted bracket up off top of door.
3. Door's not heavy. I stood on a sturdy chair to get better leverage. Opened the door enough to break the magnetic seal & llfted it up off bottom bracket. I moved it over just enough to get to the cam, rested the bottom of the door on the floor, & leaned it up against the open front of the fridge to help preserve chilled food.
4. Removed the 1 screw holding in the bad cam to the bottom bracket (uses smaller socket than screws on top bracket).
5. I checked part that goes up inside bottom of door & it was fine, so did not replace it.
6. Trickiest part: putting the door back on. I put a hand mirror on floor by the right corner & facing up so I could see the underpart of the door as I lifted it eased it down on the right place.
7. Closed door, made sure it was straight, replaced top hinge & cover, food, & artwork.
1. Used phillips head to undo 1 screw holding cover over top bracket; lifted off cover.
2. No need to have someone hold door while you remove top bracket; magnets in door gasket will hold it tight to fridge. Used socket to remove 3 screws in top bracket & lifted bracket up off top of door.
3. Door's not heavy. I stood on a sturdy chair to get better leverage. Opened the door enough to break the magnetic seal & llfted it up off bottom bracket. I moved it over just enough to get to the cam, rested the bottom of the door on the floor, & leaned it up against the open front of the fridge to help preserve chilled food.
4. Removed the 1 screw holding in the bad cam to the bottom bracket (uses smaller socket than screws on top bracket).
5. I checked part that goes up inside bottom of door & it was fine, so did not replace it.
6. Trickiest part: putting the door back on. I put a hand mirror on floor by the right corner & facing up so I could see the underpart of the door as I lifted it eased it down on the right place.
7. Closed door, made sure it was straight, replaced top hinge & cover, food, & artwork.
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- Customer:
- Tuan from Garland, TX
- Parts Used:
- R0161088
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
water stop pumping follow by refrig stop cooling
the problem was the evaporator has frozen causing the water line to freeze also.
I opened the cover to see the evaporator, verify it was frozen, try to unplug and let it thaw, but it would freeze again. Thought the defrost thermostat was not working but did not verify, order new one and replaced; it did not work. After a long time of experimenting different things I found out that the defrost thermostat was supposed to be clamp to the line. It was not clamped to the line, was just hangin from its wires when I found it. So.....it works now!!! but I don't know what happen in the first place: the clamp fell off, or did it come from mgfr unclamped but happen to work since it was cold new, now getting old and not cold enough to close the thermostat unless on the line? anyway, it works and I decided to keep the part for spare. Hope this help someone else!
I opened the cover to see the evaporator, verify it was frozen, try to unplug and let it thaw, but it would freeze again. Thought the defrost thermostat was not working but did not verify, order new one and replaced; it did not work. After a long time of experimenting different things I found out that the defrost thermostat was supposed to be clamp to the line. It was not clamped to the line, was just hangin from its wires when I found it. So.....it works now!!! but I don't know what happen in the first place: the clamp fell off, or did it come from mgfr unclamped but happen to work since it was cold new, now getting old and not cold enough to close the thermostat unless on the line? anyway, it works and I decided to keep the part for spare. Hope this help someone else!
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- Customer:
- chad from stockton, CA
- Parts Used:
- W10613606
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
no cooling either fridge or freezer
Refrigerator was stored for about 2 years and we picked it up when the owner decided to move into an apartment and no longer needed to unit (lost home to foreclosure). Brought the unit home and it worked great for about 3 days. On the third day my wife noticed a slight electrical burning smell. I did also and quickly emptied the unit and hoped for the best. The unit did indeed stop working. I fancy myself a do it myselfer but I would normally not go near electricity but thought what the heck it was free if i ruin it I would give it away. After a little research i found Partselect and they had a great design and a few stories that sounded similar so i pulled the relay capacitor for the compressor and sure enough the unit showed burn marks where the unit had shorted out. Maybe a bug got in there or water, dirt but I ordered the part. I arrived in two days which was great. I installed the part and plug the unit in and crossed my fingers. Very happily the unit clicked on and has been running great ever since. thanks Partselect, while I may not be one of your big customers I will refer anyone with appliance issues to your site first.
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- Customer:
- Ronald from Delaware, OH
- Parts Used:
- WPW10247599
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Icemaker stopped making ice.
After doing some research it appeared that the water valve was the culprit. I don't have the expertise to test the old valve but I did try adding water manually to the icemaker and it spit out the cubes so I figured the icemaker itself was ok. I ordered the new water valve on a Friday morning and it was on my doorstep the next morning. This was standard delivery!
I removed a few screws at the back of the refrigerator that holds the valve. Pulled the old one out, removed three hoses and two electrical connections. Reconnected the same on the new valve and reinstalled it. Later that day the ice cubes started dropping again.
I removed a few screws at the back of the refrigerator that holds the valve. Pulled the old one out, removed three hoses and two electrical connections. Reconnected the same on the new valve and reinstalled it. Later that day the ice cubes started dropping again.
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- Customer:
- Martin from Rutherfordton, NC
- Parts Used:
- WP4373559
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
coupling on water line thru freezer door cut due to moving Refg and having to remove doors.
Snapped the large end of the coupling onto the main line coming from the water source and snapped the other end onto the small line leading to the ice maker. Quick and simple.
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