25331672100 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the old ice maker and unplugged the cable. Screwed in the new one with a 1/4 nut driver at the 2 mounting screws, plugged cable in. Checked ice maker with a small level before final. All Ok and after night I had Ice and it has been working great since.

I found a couple of videos online of a similar product fix to get a lay of the land. When I got the part, I unplugged the unit and turned off the water. It was easy to take off the back panel and remove the old water intake valve to swap it out for the new one. Once I attached everything again I could see that the valve was taking up water but it didnt seem to be going all the way to the icemaker. I gave it some time and by the next day, there was fresh ice!

I ordered two of the long refrigerator shelf door bars and cut one of them to fit the freezer shelf door because that ready-made door bar was very expensive. The fit after cutting and notching to receive the end caps went very well.

Turn off power. Remove ice tray. Back out the two screws with nut driver and just lift ice maker off screws. Do not bend the water fill tube in the back . Now unplug the wire and remove ice maker .
To replace, match the color of wires on plug. Adjust wires in place and water fill tube and back on to the screws. Hold in place and snug screws. Turn power back on. In 4 to 5 hours your ice will start .
FED-EX UT to MN was 13 days to deliver .

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.

You tube is my best friend for DIY repair. I supported the door with wood blocks, removed the bottom bracket and was able to slide the refrigerator door down and out without removing the freezer door. Replaced both hinge bearings and door stop and washer on bottom hinge and slid the door back into place. Door is very light when empty. Fast and easy, door opens and closes smoothly and no problem with condensation anymore.

From discussions with friends, I determined the problem might be easy to fix. The fridge made a lot of noise, but the compressor DID come on, and inside the freezer was cold, but the main fridge was warming.

After unplugging the fridge, I removed the fan assembly in the freezer (there were about 4 nuts and a couple of plugs to uncouple.

I could see right away the fan blades has broken off, but the motor looked good. The new new fan pushed easily onto the shift and fit perfectly in the housing.

I reinstalled the fan assembly, plugged in the fridge, and right away heard the new fan come on - very quietly. What was a roar became a whisper and the fridge was down to 38 degrees with a few hours.

Turned off fridge circuit breaker
Removed all food from freezer and put in cooler.
Removed shelves from freezer
Removed ice maker
Removed 2 hex head screws
Tilted back evaporator cover and tried to unplug connection.
Found connection was iced over with a huge block of ice coming from water inlet to ice maker
Spent several hours trying to melt and chip away ice without damaging fridge.
Finally was able to break up ice with long flat head screwdriver and hammer.
Unplugged connector and was able to remove evaporator cover.
Cut wires near thermostat and removed
Stripped wire as needed and crimped new thermostat in place.
Used heat gun and lighter to melt heat shrink. This took a long time and required a lot more heat than expected.
Reconnected evaporator cover connection and reattached cover.
Reinstalled ice maker
Reinstalled shelves.
Put food back in
Turned circuit breaker back on.

It was real easy but I still have problem making ice cubs
Fell problem is in the ice maker went it dose make cubs they don,t dump

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

But I have back ground mechanical skills, I did see the video one time, and everything went smooth......

take the ice bin out of freezer. there are 2- 1/4" screws. these screws only need to be loosened a few turns. the ice maker can be slightly lifted up and will come off the screws. unhook the wire harness. take the "L" bracket off the old ice maker and put on the new one. set the new ice maker in. hook up the wire harness. put the new ice maker over the screws, tuck the wires out of the way and pull down into place. tighten the screws.

Looked it up on how to, follow the video
. Very easy 1-2-3 it was out and new one in..........??.

After pulling the fridge away from the wall and opening the paper backing on the bottom, I could see the motor. It's affixed to 3 metal ribs by 3 small screw/nuts. There is also a 12" wiring harness that led to a simple disconnect. Removing the disconnect and the 3 nuts was easy. However, there was no room to remove the motor with the fan attached. Between frame parts, the drip pan below, the ribs, and small, delicate copper tubing that can't get bent, it wouldn't fit thru any openings. So we rotated the motor inside the framework until the blade faced out, then reached in with a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the washer. Removing the washer is easy, it's just difficult to reach. With the washer off the fan was out of the way and very carefully (it was tight) the motor came out. Reverse was the same issue. Motor tight going in, not a lot of room to maneuver fan onto motor, and needed needle nose to tighten washer again. Make sure you tighten the washer before you install the motor on the prongs. Otherwise you need to remove it from the ribs, twist it to face you, then reinstall it on the prongs. Also, I felt I was stripping the nuts into the new motor. Turns out the holes in the motor aren't tapped. i realized the nuts are self tapping once I looked at them. I'm a big time DIYer and this wasn't bad at all. If your motor/fan assembly comes out whole, it's even easier.

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.