10654209300 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The repair was incredibly easy -
1. Turn off the water at the water line for the fridge
2. Disconnect the pressure fittings for both lines running to the resevoir.
3. Remove the old resevoir
4. Install the new resevoir and run the lines back to the orginal fittings.
5. Reconnect the fittings, turn on water.
6. Drink water!

I just removed a few screews and took the cover out of the ice box. Put my voltage meter to the refrigeator and realized the the unit was not defrosting...I then got the part number and entered it in on your web site. A few days later my part arrived. I put the part on and in just about 20 minutes I was up an running again...Thank you Part Select for fast and great service. I own 35 rental properties and having a online appliance parts store really saves me a lot of time and money.

Thank you
Curtis Hall

First I removed the relay and over load and exam. Saw that the relay was burnt. Before I order the part I check to see if the compressor was still working by jumping the common start and run terminals.It did. I also checked the start capacitor with a capacitor tester it was good. I than order the part which came the very next day.Installed the part

I ran all the ice maker module tests that I could find online, I tried cleaning the contacts inside the ice maker control module, nothing worked...so I finally decided to purchase a new control module. I had already had the module out and taken apart a few times, so the new one was very easy to install. Just removed the entire icemaker from the fridge, removed a few screws, took off the old module, put on the new one, replaced the screws, re-installed the icemaker in the fridge (it just slides in and out similar to a shelf). And 30 minutes later I heard the first batch of ice cubes drop! And by morning the bucket was nearly full. After two weeks of no ice and trying to fix it myself - the family was glad to have ice again (it was July in NC!). In retrospect, I should have followed the advice I found online and ordered the new part sooner and saved all of those frustrating hours of trying to "fix" the part myself.

The hardest part was getting the front cover plate off. I used two kitchen knifes one in each slot on the bottom of the plate and pried it off and unplug it. I removed one screw to release arm. I then used long nose pliers to remove the pin on door arm assemble. Then unplug door heater. New door has no heater. The heater had cooked the plastic arm, which caused the arm to fail. Then reassemble in reverse order.

Taped plastic cover to get it out of the way with duct tape - removed three screws on each side - removed retaining screw for each module - carefully disengaged module using small flat head screw driver being sure to release the plastic retainer and then reverse the process. Be sure new modules snap into place.

Biggest problem was initially figuring out what the problem was. Turning off the ice maker had no effect and it just kept making ice.

Emiter blinking red; ice maker stopped working. Called appliance repair, said electronic control boards needed to be replaced. Quoted me $275, including parts. Ordered part at partselect.com, installed in 15 min and ice maker started producing ice. Also discovered on other online forums that this part is a common failure on these model refrigerators. Very easy to swap out, plug & play. Make sure to unplug appliance before performing repair due to shock risk.

It was easy, I followed the instructions on the paper and it went well.

Well I changed out the optical boards which I thought were the problem and the ice maker is still not making any ice. I can see the ice makers fingers rotating but there is no water entering through the tube. I jumped the water manifold in the back and water comes out but I cant figure out what is not telling it to run water and fill the ice tray. Any ideas would be appreciated I guess i'll replace the ice maker next. Thanks in advance.

Removed the broken coupling with the new one from your store. It took less than 10 minutes. The video you provided on the website was very helpful.

changed the starter connected to the compressor

The CAUSE of the LEAK were the O-rings on the water filter itself. My son followed others suggestions on how to detach the water hose from the filter housing, advise was helpful. After replacing the water filter housing, helpful, and inflow water tube the leak was still there. So my son then inspected the water filter and replaced. Water filter light was still green so we did not think it needed attention.

First I installed a defrost timer, (the old timer had burnt out contacts in it) It seemed to work for a few days, then went back to not comng out of defrost cycle, I then installed a defrost thermostat. It seems to be working better than before. I found out that maybe I wasn't running it cold enough. So I turned it up colder. Now it works ok for 2 - 3 days, then I check the Temp in the freezer and its up to 6o. So I manually reset the timer and it works for 2 - 3 days. Don't know what to do now to fix it.

took the old motor out and replaced it with the new one along with the drive shaft.

Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.

The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.