1069432481 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the crisper drawer cover and took out the glass and put it in the new drawer cover. The freezer support shelf had been missing for a while. All it needed was the shelf suuport that slid down over the stud in the freezer wall. Couldn't be simpler! No tools needed.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

My main rave for this site is I received my parts in less than 24 hours!!
I was shocked at how fast they arrived ( I didn't pay for overnight shipping either)
The repair was simple. Pulled out the old broken covers, put in the new ones and slid the drawers back in. Sure is nice to have them seal again! :)

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.

After viewing online videos of the repair process, it was very easy to replace the evaporator fan motor - just remove the back panel of the freezer compartment for EASY access to the evaporator motor. I received the new motor a day earlier than I thought I would. I took 15 to 20 minutes to replace the old motor. The only problem was the wiring on the new motor was on the opposite side of the motor as compared with the old motor. I was able to rotate the new motor enough for the new wiring to connect. VERY HAPPY with the results. A word of caution: the motor mounting brackets are plastic - go easy when trying to remove the brackets.

Followed the video instructions.

Simply drop in new bracket and put glass shelf back into place

easy - remove the door, replace th part, put back the door

Just followed the video supplied with shipment. 5 minutes, even for a mechanically-challenged person.

It was straight forward enough--removed six screws from the metal cooling coil shield at the back of the freezer compartment and removed the shield. That left the motor and its mounting exposed atop the coil. Removed the electrical leads and popped out the motor and fan. Then I replaced the leads on the new motor, reset it in the mounting and pushed the fan propeller from the old motor on the spindle of the new. Twenty minutes tops.

I pulled the wiring harness off the bad motor, removed the fan blades (it was just a press fit and can be pulled off by hand), took out the three screws. The fan on the replacement motor had to be installed out of the fridge. I wiggled the new motor into place and installed the three screws. I cut the wiring harness off the fridge side and cut back the insulation. Using wire nuts I reconnected the wiring. I plugged the fridge back in and it worked like a champ.
The repair went fairly easy. The motor was a bit difficult to get into tight space with my big hands. The wiring harness on the fridge side had to be cut and wire nuts used to reconnect the wiring to the new motor but it was pretty straight forward. Over all the repair was easy except for being in a tight spot. I recommend trying to fix it yourself, you may supprise yourself and save some serious bucks on labor cost to boot.

I read a previous entry that stated the stud needed to be twisted out, which was very useful. I was bit worried at first when I removed the broken one and a bit of the insulation came out and it seemed mangled inside, but twisting the new one in worked. It is in there firm and strong, good as original.

I just did what the instructions outlined and the job was done fast.

I did some tests and determined that the tub-to-pump drain hose had a leak in it.I then looked on the web to find disassembly instructions. I have a stacked washer dryer combination in a very confined space. The repair involved disconnecting both the washer and dryer from the water, gas, electric and venting systems first, then unstacking the dryer from the washer (not so easy, it required a helper). The machine was then pulled out so I could get at the parts necessary to remove the outside components and sheet metal. Then, I disassembled the top, front and access panel in the back. The disassembly went very well. I got access to the drain hose assembly and removed it fairly easily. I ordered a replacement drain hose assembly and found that installing the large port of the assembly was very difficult. (The two other ports were easy.) After thinking about it, I tilted the machine back a bit so I could try it from the bottom. That worked fine.I then reassembled and tested the machine. No leaks. Good luck with yours!