25361462100 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

easy. took glass tray that held meat draw out. unscrewed old rail screw new one in. put glass try back in frig. put meat try back in.

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.

You tube is my best friend for DIY repair. I supported the door with wood blocks, removed the bottom bracket and was able to slide the refrigerator door down and out without removing the freezer door. Replaced both hinge bearings and door stop and washer on bottom hinge and slid the door back into place. Door is very light when empty. Fast and easy, door opens and closes smoothly and no problem with condensation anymore.

Most of my time was spent removing food items from the shelf that supported the rails. Once that was done, a quick removal of the screw, replace the left support rail and re-installing the screw. Done. I wish all of my repairs were so easy!

Emptied the shelf. Took out the shelf. Screwed in the one screw for the support rail. Put shelf back in. Put drawer back in. Works like a charm.

Wow. What an easy repair. It was so easy I literally had my 10 year son complete the repair.

(Handyman requirement for Cub scouts).

Removed 1 screw and pulled out old broken guide rail, replaced with new part and screwed it back in.

It took long to wash and clean the shelves we pulled out than it did to make the repair.

Took one screw out to remove the old rail off by removing one screw placed the new one into the slot and replaced the screw and put the drawer back into the refrigerator

Just had to pop the old pieces out, assemble the new ones, and pop them in. Very easy. Anyone can do it.

Looked up similar problems and found it to be the defrost timer. All I had to do was remove the plastic portion in the fridge section to get to the old timer. Popped the new one in and put it back together. Works great now. Would have been almost $150 to have a repair company come out and fix it.

Pulled the drawer out, lifted the shelf out of the refrigerator, unscrewed drawer slides from shelf and rescrewed the new drawer slides and returned the shelf, drawer, and the job was finished. Thank you so very much for your speedy delivery.

I removed the housing at the top of the refrigerator compartment that contained the reefer light and temperature adjustment knob. This required a small nut-driver. Inside, I found the old defrost control, unplugged it, unscrewed it with a Phillips screwdriver, and replaced it with the replacement part. Then I replaced the housing to its original position.

Removed the housing with the light, 4 hexhead screws. This exposed the defrost timer, removed 2 hexhead screws, electrical connector and reassembled the unit.

Great resource and service, thank you.

Assembled the bar and ends, then slide into slots on door. Cross bars have tabs to lock in place. These tabs may need a little effort to get started.

I called the repairman who diagnosed the problem as a thermostat then had to order a thermostat took about 2 weeks to get back and install (cost little over $100). did good for about two weeks and same problem reoccured. I decided it was defrost timer and ordered from this site for $19.95 including shipping. I got on ( you tube ) and got instructions(recommend you tube) for DIY install about 15 to 20 minutes. Has been running great for about 3 weeks. ( YOU TUBE IS GREAT FOR A DIY REPAIR ON ABOUT ANYTHING)

First removed existing damaged shelf retainer bar and end caps from freezer door. Next cut down new oversized retainer bar to size with hack saw. Then slightly opened up doubled over metal at each end of retainer bar with pliers and screw driver in order to create the small "nicks" that are needed to house the "bumps" that secure the retainer bar to end caps. Used tin snips for this. Next inserted new end caps and used pliers to crimp secure. Clipped in new assembly in freezer door.