25354369400 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Unscrewed the water line cover. Removed the platic case around the water filter base. Everything went well until I tried to remove the two water hoses. After I finally figured out that I had to push in the release washer while pulling the hoses out, things went well. Unfortunately it took several hours of wasted time and several searches on the internet to finally figure this part out. From there on out it went smoothly. Old base came out with two screws. Reversed process for reinstall of new base. Water hoses just slipped back into place and locked themselves in. Just takes a little patience.

The symptom was a fried power board located in the freezer door behind the ice/water dispenser. Replacing the board was fairly easy. However, the new board also cooked soon thereafter. I discovered that the root cause for this failure was a failed diode Part Number 5303918287. The diode is located in the wiring near the three water solenoids in the rear (lower right) where the water enters the unit. Unless the diode is also replaced, the board will fail again.
Replacement of these components is fairly easy. One trick that work well for me during re-assembly was to use a long wood screw to thread up through the water dispenser panel and into the end of the water tube, and then pull on the screw head to gently feed the tube down into the dispenser.

The radiator was not being properly defrosted and the refrigerator and freezer could not keep the temperature. Two things can be causing this, the defrost module which defrost the refrigerator on a regular basis ($110) or the thermostat ($18). I tried the thermostat since it is very easy to do (remove cover plate inside the freezer, cut wires of old thermostat, connect new thermostat by stripping wires. Presto...however the thermostat was NOT the problem. The problem was a blown timer circuit board that controls the regular defrosting. That repair was done by a technician. The board was $110, it seats inside the refrigerator in the control panel area.

Unplug turn water off
Removed two screws with nut driver loosen one
Disconnected three solenoid valves
Disconnected four water lines
Plug tubing in, tighten one flare fitting
Reattach wires to solenoids
Slide under loose screw, replace two screws
Turn water on check for leaks plug in get a drink of water

When the ice maker is over filling, either the valve is defective or clogged, or the ice maker is at fault signaling the valve to stay open too long. My problem was the latter. I had already replaced the valve, thinking that being only 2 years old, how could the ice maker be faulty. I was wrong. Ice maker unplugs and comes out with 2 screws. A quick swap with the new ice maker and all is well. Simple

The door has nylon gear teeth that wore out and needed replaced. The ice chute came off very easy with 6 screws. I used a punch and pliers to remove the hinge pin. Then the door came off and the new one put on. Very easy. The part was ordered on Sunday and arrived on Tuesday.

Test the light socket first with a bulb that you know is good. If the light still does not come on, unplug the refrigerator, remove the switch by inserting a very small, thin, flathead screwdriver alongside it and pull the switch out slowly with your other hand. There are two wires there. Remove them gently with some needle nose pliers. If you want to test to see if the switch is defective, take a insulated jumper wire, and attach it between the two wires. Plug the refrigerator back in and see if the light comes on. If the light does come on, replace with a new switch by re-attaching the wires and placing it back in the hole firmly.

Unpluged the item. Turned off the water source. Removed the card board cover. Dis-connected the water hoses. Unpluged the connetors. Matched up the colores and put it back together, very easy. Everythings was color coded.

The tray at the bottome of the "in door" unit pulls straight out. I then removed the 3 screws at the bottom, shifted the cover upwards...and removed it from the fridge door. You then have to remove the green circuit board to get at the actuator. The tricky part is the water line feed...there's not much slack at all and it's hard to get at. I ended up removing the entire assembly to put the new actuator on. When it came time to reassemble...I disconnected the 4 wire connectors (two brown, an orange, and I forget the other) so I could have enough room for my fingers to grab the water line and insert it back. The connectors were easy to reconnet w/ needle nose plyers. (make sure you diagram them before you remove...so they can be reattached correctly). Putting it back together was pretty easy. It all works...lights, buttons, etc. so I must have done it right.

Removed (unsnapped) plastic cover from back of refrigerator ( inside freezer compartment), determined that the fan was not turning, removed 4 screws from the aluminum back plate in freezer and tilted it down. Removed 2 screws with a nut driver, this allowed the fan to be removed, unpluged fan motor from the bace of the freezer and removed fan. Installed new motor and spent $38.00 to repair the refrigerator that would have cost me severial hundred dollars to replace. Thanks for the help

We broke a door shelf bin on our brand new refrigetor. We ordered a new one, put it in in less than a minute and it is fixed good as new.

most importantly on the page with the necessary part..cripser support for the refrigerator--- there was a brief insructional video on how to properly dislodge the broken part and replace it with the new showing the simple tools needed. I am not handy at all but it took me all of two minutes thanks to the helpful video.

Snap out fan cover, remove four 1/4" screws, remove back cover, remove defective fan motor, remove fan blade, install new motor and blade, strip wires and hook up with wire nuts, reinstall back cover, snap in fan cover, and plug in fridge.

First I unplugged fridge. I then removed cover that keeps fan protected. I then removed 2 screws that hold the evaporator motor in place. I then removed 3 wires running to motor. Very easy to remove, just pulled connections apart. I then replace the old motor with new.

The Sears repairman wanted to charge me $359 to repair. I did repair for under $40! Amazing what you can save if you have the time and knowlege to do it yourself.

I shut off the water supply and removed the 4 screws from the cardboard back revealing the water valve. I removed the 2 screws which attach the valve to the refrigerator and removed the water valve. Once out it was a snap to unplug the electrical leads and unscrewed the water lines, Insalling the new part was a matter of reversing the above procedure. Everything is color coded which made this replacement extrememly simple.

I will definitely use you guys in the future. The ordering process was great and delivery time was ultra quick!
Thanks for an easy part replacement and simple install.