1069640584 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I did the repair just as your video showed me. It worked out great.

First of all the part was not located in the section of the refrigerator that was shown in the video. I wasted a lot of time taking that section apart only to find that the part wasn't there. After some investigation I finally located the defective part. It was behind a piece of sheet metal that had to be bent out of the way to unscrew the part. If I hadn't bent it out of the way, it would have been a major disassembly to remove the sheet metal. Once removed, the installation of the new part was fairly simple. The only confusing thing about the installation was determinig which of the prongs on the part that the internal wire to the new part was to be attached. There were 3 options given and the instructions were not very clear as to which one I should use. Apparently I guessed correctly because the refrigerator seems to be functioning perfectly since the repair.

I just simply eliminated the ice buildup with hot water and a knife. But I still have the Defrost Timer Kit for future use.

Remove inside door trim plate. Then removed three screws that held in the light assembly. The only difficult thing was reconnecting the temperature adjustment rod. After replacing this rod you must slide the temperature control slide to midway and this hold the rod in place while reinstalling the light assembly. If I were to do it again it would probably take me half as long.

One day the ice cream in the freezer seemed mushy, but the ice was still frozen. There was not water in the ice bin. However, the problem resolved itself. This suggested that the defrost timer had become stuck for an extended time, but then continued to run. The fact that the freezer went back to frozen, implies that all the components of the cooling loop (compressor, condenser & fan, evaporator & fan) were fine. It was possible that the problem was caused by a bad defrost (?evaporator?) thermostat but everything I saw on line suggested that the defrost timer is the culprit about 40 - 50% of the time. Anyway, I followed the instructions in the on-line video at this site for replacing the defrost timer and it was easy. It would have only taken 15 minutes, but I spent a while reading the defrost timer instructions and hunting down a schematic for my refrigerator, to determine which pin the loose wire should go on.

Unplug the refrigerator. Remove the rear shelf supports by lifting them straight up. No tools required. Remove the screws holding the rear cover of the freezer. Use a nut driver to remove the 4 screws holding the fan housing. Unplug the wiring harness, then remove the fan and install the new one. Remount the housing, plug in the harness replace the rear cover, install the shelf supports and plug in the refrigerator. It was 30 minutes start to finish, which includes the time to gather the tools, unload and reload the freezer, and putting the tolls away!

I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.

removed rear wall panel took off old fan motor disconnected motor. Installed new grommets re-installed motor inserted new fan. Didn't have to trim fan re-connected wires and rear panel and reconnected power. no problems...

1. Unplug Refrigerator 2. Remove inside back freezer panel. (4 Screws) 3. Remove Duct Cover (3 Screws). 4. Cut electrical connections to fan. 5. Remove Old Fan motor (2 hex screws. 6. Install ground wire (was not one there previously). 7. Put slide-on electrical connectors on remaining 2 motor wires. (Were not any on original unit.) 8. Replace Fan Motor (Don't forget the rubber vibration pads) 9. Reconnect electrical wires. 10. Press on plastic fan blade. 11. Plug in refrigerator to test install. It works. 12 Unplug refrigerator and replace ducting and back panel to freezer. Plug it back in. Voila, Quiet again.

Was very simple once I found out where the defrost timer was located. I had a friend walking me through trying to find the location on the phone. Not all models have them in the same place. Once the part was located all I had to do was remove the cover, unplug the old one and plug the new one in just the way the old one came off. The black wire was easy to locate on the old and just matched it up. Put the cover back on and plugged it in. It was no time till I started feeling it cool. Checked both top and bottom with thermomater and it was where it should be within 12 hours. I am happy and using it again. Was almost ready to throw it out. Did not know it was so cheap to fix one. Nothing anyone can't handle. If this woman can do it anyone can.

The evaporator fan is located in the freezer behind the back wall. If you have the ice maker remove it first then remove the screws on the top of the panel. You will notice the side brackets for the top shelf will make it hard to remve the panal but by slitly binding the center the panal came right out. The fan is held in a bracke tha comes right out. The wire unplu right from the fan so do not try to unplg the seal plug to the left side. Swap the fan with the new one useing the new rubber monts re-connect the wires and reasymble. Put the bottom of the back panal in first then work each side in past the shelf bracket binding the center slightly.

I was a Sears repair man for fourty eight years , so I don"t think I should say how easy this was.

Pulled the electric plug! Removed the freezer shelf and the rear shelf supports by pulling straight up. Swung rear panel out of the way after taking out the two phillips head screws at the top. Removed the plastic deflector grill to which the motor is attached with a nut driver. Removed motor from grill and disconnected wire prongs (pull off). Attach new motor. Only issue - the ground prong has been moved to the front of the motor so the wire just reaches and has to be gently bent back so the fan blade clears it. Reattach deflector grill. Push on fan blade, but not too far to hit wire. Reassemble the rest in reverse order.

I used a socket and ratchet to back out part way the screws holding the seal. There are 4 pieces of metal strips that the screws go through to hold the seal on. Don't remove the screws completely or the plastic panel of the door will fall or come off. Take the new door seal and power it with baby power. This will help make the seal not hang up when you close the door. Now, shake off excess powder outside and then begin to install the seal. Start at the top left or right corner and work across pushing the lip of the seal into the recess of the metal strip. You will want to tighten some of the screws as you go but leave enough looseness to push the seal into the strip's recess. Proceed down each side and the bottom last. I should note that you could remove the door first and you wouldn't have to stand on your head to screw in the bottom of the seal.

This was a very simple repair once I had the right part. And the thing that made ordering from you so easy was that you had all the diagrams online! This not only made the repair easier once the part arrived, but it helped me to be sure I was ordering the correct part in the first place. Now I know where to go for any appliance part I made need in the future. Thanks for helping me get it right the first time.