1069610612 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

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Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Disconnect power. Remove back panel on the refrigerator. Relay and overload is a modular unit attached to the compressor. Disconnect module from compressor, install new unit. While you're in there clean the condenser coils with a vacuum and clean the fan and condensate pan. Reassemble, and you're chillin. Total time approx. 15 min.

After searching online to diagnose the issue with my refrigerator being warm and the freezer being cold and not shutting off to defrost I decided to get the defrost timer kit. The kit arrived within 2 day. With the directions included, after unplugging the appliance for safety, I installed it relatively quickly with only a screwdriver . I then plugged it back in and it immediately went to defrost. I thought, wow I have it fixed. Well unbeknownst to me it still didn't cool in the fridge area. After doing more internet research I found a suggestion to unplug the fridge for 24 hours to unthaw ice that may be lodged between the freezer and fridge that is blocking the distribution of cold air into the fridge. After doing this, it now works like a charm.

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

I removed 7 screws hold the heavy cardboard cover on the rear of the fridge. The dificult part was taking the screws that hold the 3 fan motor braces on the fan out. After that it was a matter of making the wire conections and putting it back in. I did not have enough room to laydown to do the work, If i had it would have been a lot easier to see the screws that had to be removed. All in all an easy job, and the part was a perfect fit.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Reviewed Youtube video as a reference. Unplugged refrigerator. Removed old defrost timer. Matched the color of the wiring harness to the diagram that came with the part. Attach new part to wiring harness.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

snapped the new ones on the aluminum bar and inserted into the freezer

I removed one bolt and took out the old roller after first blocking up the fridge. Then I was puzzled for a moment because the hole in the new assembly was not tapped. But then I saw that the old bolt was a self tapping bolt. I used it to tap the hole then removed it and installed the new assembly. No sweat job.

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.

I simply slid off the broken supports, and slid the new ones on.

Simply replaced broken ones.

I slid the bar into the end caps, then slid the end caps into the slots on the door. No tools were required. My fridge is old, and I was very pleased that I was able to find the part.