1069808715 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

followed directions

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

I just replaced my defrost thermostat after using the place-in-ice-water method, and I think it may not have been necessary. My timeline: my fridge was not getting cold enough. I realized it the day before going on a trip. I vacuumed the (very dusty) coils at the bottom, and the next morning the fridge seemed colder, but I thought I should order parts just in case. I ordered a heater and a thermostat. The fridge seemed to be operating normally when I returned from my trip, but I had the parts, so I thought I'd go ahead and dismantle the freezer and test the existing parts. My intention was to return both parts if the old ones passed the tests. I opened up the back of the freezer and there was no ice on the fins. I thought, great, the existing heater works! I cut out the thermostat, placed it in ice water, and didn't get continuity. So I decided to go ahead and put in the new thermostat. Because I'm not experienced with using a multimeter, I thought I'd test the new thermostat to see how the test should work. To my surprise, the new thermostat also failed the test! Stumped, I thought I might as well install the new thermostat, since I had opened the package and couldn't return it.
Further internet research suggests the place-in-ice-water method of testing is not adequate. One YouTube video by Parts Dr says to place the part in a working freezer. I froze my old thermostat and tested it; still no continuity. This thermostat may not be typical, though. The video discussed the temperature ratings on thermostats. The temperature rating on both (old and new) thermostats is L8.9-16.7C. That converts to 48-63 degrees fahrenheit, which obviously are not freezing temperatures. I'm not convinced I needed a new thermostat, but I trusted the videos I consulted earlier.
I cleaned the fridge thoroughly, so at least now I have a nice clean fridge to show for my efforts.

first confirm that freezer is cold. if is frozen solid it needs to be defrosted. take the freezer items out,take shelf out, bottom cover, 2 screws. then ice maker, 3 screws and unplug wires. then back panel 2 screws. In refrigerator compartment were the controllers are located, look under it you will see 1 hole, insert a flat end screw driver and turn clockwise till it stops. this action will turn on your defroster, also the compressor will stop. is the heater melting the ice? if so soak up water and clean tray, use hair dryer in drain hole to aid in the defrost, check tray under fridge and if its dry keep defrosting. it should take half an hour. now take the flat head screw driver and turn the defrost timer clock wise out of defrost mode a quarter turn or so. the compressor should come back on, soon after the fan in the freezer compartment should also come on. this steps lets you no that the defrost heater works, fan works and drain hole is clear. if its defrosted place parts back in the reverse order. if not defrosted replace heater or mother board. in refrigerator compartment were the dials are located their are 2 screws, one on the left and the other on the right side take them out, the cover will drop down, you will find wiring schematics you will need them to install defrost timer. is timer making ticking sound? if no replace timer. new timer will be different from original so follow instructions that come with it. timer is above were the hole is located. the plastic hold downs will break when you try to take them off, unplug fridge, lift timer out and remove from wire harness. the new timer has a black wire that slips over either 1 or 2 depending on color of wire on the wire harness. check schematics. some silicone adhesive will keep unit in place, ad some into the plastic shaft prior to installation, plug wire harness return wiring instruction along with new one inside of cover, plug in fridge, turn defrost timer clock wise with flat head screw driver making sure that you hold timer from above so it wont move. did compressor come on?. put all paper work inside of cover before installing cover

I removed the broken end cap and then I snapped the metal shelf onto both end caps and replaced the shelf.

I really must say that dealing with PartSelect was exceptional. It took about three days for me to get the part and, prior to that, it was very easy for this sidewalk fixer to locate the correct part on their website. Thank you for your excellent service.

Removed the existing broken end cap, and replaced it with the new one. Installed shelf securely back in fridge. Easiest repair I've ever done. Less than 5 minutes. I wish everything were that easy.

I tipped the refrigerator back and my friend used an adjustable wrench to attach put the new wheel assembies on. I also used a socket wrench to get the old attacheement bolts to thread. I rolled the cleaned appliance in place and adjusted the wheels with the socket set for easy door closing. It went smoothly.

When we got the part, we read the instructions, which were easy and very clear step by step. Taking the old part off took most of the time, it was attached a little differently than was described in the video and the instructions for the part. Once we detached that, the replacement part went in very easily and quickly. It took a short while for the cycle to start, we were actually a little worried that it wasn't going to work. Then it started cycling. After the first day the freezer had started icing up, we took a blow dryer and melted it and waited. It hasn't started freezing up again. The refrigerator is keeping the proper temperature and the freezer is also working properly, it's been a week. We seem to be obsessed with going out and checking to see if it's working but I think it's a success. Doing this ourselves only cost $26.00. A huge savings if we had hired someone else to repair it for us. We will definitely choose this option with any other appliance that needs repair. It was easy and simple to find the correct part thanks to the website. And the video tutorial was very informative and helpful.

Ordered a defrost timer kit and a Bimetal defrost thermostat clip. I matched the wires but first I unplugged the frig.I cut the two wires on the Bimetal defrost and added the two connectors. All's well that ends well.Problem solved.

This website saved my marriage. For the past two years, every time we would open the fridge everything in the door shelves would fall all over the floor. This was not only embarassing when we would have family and friends over but I really got tired of my wife yelling every time she would open up the fridge. I tried every type of glue and repairs to try and fix it, finally gave up and thought the only way I would find peace at home was to purchase a new fridge. I accidently stumbled across your website and before I knew it and about $6 later my life improved more than you can imagine. The best part was how easy it was to find the part I needed with the detailed pictures you have. The part was shipped fast and very easy to install. I will definately use partselect again. Thanks!

Unplug Dryer. Remove 2 5/16in hex screws from lower panel and remove panel.Remove 3 5/16in hex screws attaching lint duct. Remove 8 1/4in hex screws attaching blower housing. Remove 2 1/4 hex screws attaching thermostat to blower housing. Using adj. wrench on back of motor shaft nut to hold, loosen fan assy. w/ 7/8in socket. Remove 3 5/16in hex screws holding fan housing to motor mount. Remove 2 5/16in hex screws holding housing and motor mount to base floor. Push belt pulley wheel up enough to loosen belt and take off rear motor pulley. Motor w/mount can be slid out bottom for replacement [wires are layed toward front].Using 6in flat tip screw driver press down to unlock front & back motor bushing holddown clamps. Pinch electrical wire connector ends to pull off old motor. Remove and Install new motor, reversing steps. Belt replacement [suggested w/new motor] requires removal of 2 5/16in screws to lift/remove door w/front panel [disconnect door switch wires upper right rear corner].Remove 4 5/16 screws holding front bulkhead. Once bulkhead is pulled up and off, allow front end of drum to sag and rest IN PLACE [removal not required to slip old belt off and install new belt]. Note belt location point around drum. Slide new belt on. Reinstall bulkhead and panel/door [Don't forget door swich wires]. Adjust belt into position and push spring-held belt pully up to allow looping of new belt around rear motor belt pulley. Complete w/hand turning of drum to ensure belt is aligned and feeding properly. Reinstall lower fan housing/covers/thermostat,etc removed for motor installation.

Well the part and repair was so easy my wife did it and is very proud of herself

First I had to tilt the refrigerator on wood on the supports under the refrigerator, the wheels were easy to get to then I unscrewed the old ones and replaced them with the new better wheels. The old ones where plastic.

Just replaced the old piece with the new. Simple and easy.

Just like the video showed me.It still does not work. Have to turn it off and on to make it start up.I also replaced thermostat in freezer. Does not work.