JCB2488MTR00 Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

I took out the old socket by moving a clip. Reattached the electrical wires, clicked in the socket and that was it.

First I had to figure out how to get the old unit out so I could work on it. The three screws that others wrote about were the ones that hold the motor in place. There are 3 screws holding the ice maker in the frame, along with one screw covering the electrical connection. The electrical connection was difficult to unplug because the locking tab was on the back side of the connection and with no room to work in the freezer it didn't become apparent until several frustrating minutes went by. There were no instructions provided, the picture on the ordering page showed the complete ice maker, and for $80 you get a printed circuit board with a small round item which must be the motor/timer control. The two plastic parts for moving the ice from the ice maker were included but not replaced because I didn't notice them until I had finished replacing the ice maker back in the freezer and wasn't going to start over again.
Once installed, there wasn't any noise, even of water flowing like the old one, could not tell if the unit was working or not. In the morning there was new ice in the bin indicating the repair had been successful. This is like anything else, if you have done it before it is a 5 minuter job but when you have to look at it and try to figure it out it takes a bit longer. All in all, it was simple enough, I was expecting a complete ice maker unit like was in the picture when ordered but only the motor module was actually needed.
We have another refrigerator/freezer that has an icemaker that is over 20 years old and has never been repaired, it is a Sears model though, probably made by Whirlpool or someone else.

Sorry I didn't do the repair but my husband did. It took him about an hour and a half. He did have to take the main part of the ice maker out of the fridge and take a couple of pieces off t oslide the tabs from the stripper arm into place. It was great. Fixed the icemaker for $22.00 dollars with no service fee. I can't imagine what they would have charged me.

I could have bought the "brains" of the ice maker, but decided to replace the whole ice and make sure the problem was fixed. This refrig was let in home I just bought, so do not know its history. The biggest problem was trying to get the ice maker out of the tight spot without applying undo pressure on any part. It finally came out. The next problem was figuring out the catch on plug-in for electrial power. That done, the new ice maker went in without a hitch and is making ice. Glad I decided to order the part and do it myself for the cost of a service charge -- and not service call and part.

Had to widen screw access hole in motor frame enough to use the phillips bit with my 12V impact driver. That worked perfectly. It took an extra two hours of trying to break the screw free without stripping it and figure out what to do when it wouldn't budge. Once I got the screw out the fix went quick and the ice maker now works great. If you have a coroded screw go straight to the impact driver.

removed the LED covers on both sides of the freezer, unplugged each circuit board, plugged in both circuits, replaced the LED covers, job complete, making ice

Installing the new icemaker is simple. The only problem I had was disconnecting the wiring. Had to use pliers to gently pull the plugs apart. After that, installing the new one was relatively easy. It's a tight fit but can be accomplished with big American hands ;-). After about 15 minutes, it starting making ice again.

Replacement of parts was simple. But there are three main reasons that ice maker quits: door sensors stop working; ice maker, or it control system, stop working, or the coil controlling when water is released into the ice maker stops working. It was easy to replace the door senors; repairman replaced the ice maker and control board, which is located in one end of ice maker, but it ended up being the coil or simply a frozen water outlet into the ice maker that stopped the system from from working. The first thing you should do is to make sure that the water outlet into the icemaker is not frozen - use a hair dryer to melt frozen ice in the outlet - don't melt the plastic outlet with high heat. If the system still does not work go to this: look at red sensor on door to the the right. If it blinks twice in a couple of second with a time out and then repeats over and over, close the door on the receiving sensor on the left hand side of the casing and if the red light comes on steady then the sensor is working properly. So, now you have the coil that turns the water on and off or the water maker itself that can be bad. It will be one of these that are at fault, but not both. Call a repairman.

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

First thought it might've been a problem with the inlet valve assembly but it wasn't. Took the factory unit out of the refrigerator and from testing found out one of the wires (black) was busted so splice a new wire in and motor started working but the "arm" would only rotate to a certain point and stop. I then discovered a broken tab inside the motor housing so at the point I just ordered a brand new icemaker unit. When I got it, I just mounted it to the base plate then slid it into the tracks in the refrigerator. The spout where the water comes out was the only tricky part but it is flexible so you just have to push it away and put it back into the tray when the whole unit is inserted. Once inserted, connect the power to the refrigerator, lock the wire cover to the base plate and you should be fine. The new unit started working right away. Whole process took 5 minutes.

I did an internet search about the problem and found the information and experience that other people had. Ordered the part and that's it. One important thing to remember is to unplug the power supply of the appliance prior to making any repair. I short circuited the original board when I tried to plug it back in after cleaning the optics. (The board might have been bad before that.) The red light stop working but the frige is making ice non stop!!

Do not try to pull out the water filter by the cap. There is a button that releases the filter so you will not have to replace the cap. The cap twists onto the filter. When replacing the filter, the cap goes onto the new one.

Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the On/Off button at the top to turn off internal power. Open the freezer door and move the icemaker switch on the right side freezer wall to "off".

To get access to the icemaker, first remove a hinged plastic door that mounts to the ceiling of the freezer compartment by two hex screws. Remove the screws and the door so you can work with the icemaker without interference.

The icemaker assembly will slide out once the wireharness has been disconnected. To disconnet the wire harness, a while plastic shield has to be removed from the right side of the icemaker, just behind the water inlet.
Locate a hex screw on the bottom right rear of the icemaker and remove it with a socket wrench. Then the plastic cover can be pulled off.

Slide the icemaker out enough so you can get your fingers on the plug connector. It takes some effort to pull the plug connectors apart. Once unplugged the whole icemaker assembly can be removed.

The motor module is located on the left side and is protected by a white cover. This cover is not attached so it can be pulled off to reveal the motor module.

Remove 3 screws from the outside of the motor module and the module can be pulled out of the housing. Insert the new motor module. The module turns the shaft of the ice srapper arm. the shaft has a D shape which mates with the hole in the motor module so you may have to roatate the scrapper arm until the shaft shape matches up with the hole shape in the motor module.

Once the motor module is seated, replace the 3 screws and push the white cover back on.

Position the icemaker so you can reconnect the wireharness plug connectors. Once connected you can push the icemaker asembly back into the grooves of shelf rail. Reattach the while protector shield which covers up the wire harness plugs.

Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the power button to turn internal power back on. Move the icemaker switch on the right wall of the freezer to the "on" position and close the door.

The icemaker should start making ice within 2 hours.

This was relatively easy, but did require patience. First I removed the ice maker door cover, then the bolts, which required a socket and wrench. Next the icemaker wires had to be disconnected, it was a little tough - the connection was on there tight. Once the old unit is out, make sure you remove the motor cover and bracket - you need those on the new one before it goes in. After replacing the bracket and motor cover on the new unit, you connect the wires, pop in the new unit and put all the bolts back in. It was mostly a one person job, but I did need a second set of hands when disconnecting and connecting the wires.