JCB2488MTR00 Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

We popped out the new filter and replaced the cap with a twist. It was so easy. It is important to vaccum the front of the refrigerator for accumulating dust.

At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved me $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

Searched my issue on the internet then chose part select to see if bi-metal thermostat was available and it was so I ordered part which was under $30.00 incl. shipping. I then went to You Tube to watch how to replace the part but most importantly to find out where it was located and degree of difficulty. Replacement was rather simple and it fixed our 22 year old fridge. I must add that when I looked up the part it also told you what percent of the time that particular item actually fixed the problem based on others experience. I thought that was neat info. as I felt better about ordering something that may or may not fix my problem. Thank you,

I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.

I replaced this same ice maker a month before, if that long, using a part I found $40 cheaper from another site. Needless to say you get what you pay for, the existing part was not exactly the same as the original and leaked water all over the place. I removed the not so old icemaker by removing the flapper door and removing the harness cover then pulling out the existing icemaker followed by disconnecting the wiring harness. Now with the old icemaker removed I removed the bottom tray/shield from the existing ice maker by removing the three screws from it then attached the tray to the bottom of the new ice maker from PartSelect which did not come with the bottom tray/shield. Finally, I executed the removal process in reverse order to install the new ice maker.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

I removed two small bolts that secure the flapper that keeps ice from falling out when you open the door, one bolt that holds a cosmetic cover for the wires and slid the icemanker forward. The only difficult part was removing the plug since it was high up, the wires were stiff and there's a release to push that locks the two plugs together. Once it was removed all was installed in the opposire order.
The part I ordered had a slightly taller channel where the water refills so I had to trim it to allow the new icemaker to slide in without bending the fill nozzle. Other than that it was pretty easy.

Freezer worked great, refrigerator stopped getting cold and lots of ice formed around the condenser on the bottom of the refrigerator.
First I had a serious ice issue, ice build up around the bottom of the refrigerator and all through the cold air vents, condenser and cooling fan. I unplugged of the fridg and let defrost over night. I also took all the cold air vents out and cleaned them.
Then I followed the switch install video very simple switch install. Now the Refrigerator works Great nice and cold.

Piece of cake. It took me longer to remove the food from the freezer, remove shelves and back panel than to do the repair. I heard the fan making some noises so I replaced both the fan and defrost thermostat. I used the instructions submitted by a another customer. My 20+ year old fridge is like new now.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

I followed the instructions that was on your site and it was very easy to follow.

I pulled off the panel covering the part in the freezer cut and stripped the wires. Used crimper and connectors put the new part on put the wires band panel back on and plugged the refrigerator back in. Everything works just fine now.

We emptied out both sides, refrigerator and freezer, and followed the instructions in your video. We turned it off and disconnected the power. We took off the freezer door first. It made it much easier to get the shelves out and reach way back into the freezer. We removed the light and cover, then the ice auger motor. The back panel was easy to lift and remove. The wire assembly was a little hard to understand at first, but when we figured it out it was easy to remove and replace the bimetal defrost thermostat. We did check the video when we had the wire harness out, to make sure we got it right. We reassembled the freezer's inside parts and reattached the door. Before we turned the power back on, we scrubbed down the entire refrigerator. When we turned the power back on, the refrigerator and freezer were operating quietly - no sparks or explosions or shorting out - hooray! And the problems were solved.
The most important resource is your video. It looked like something we could do, and then ordered the parts. Our repair took a long time because we checked the video so many times. Thank you so much for the great information and the excellent parts. We could not have done it without you.

Replacement of parts was simple. But there are three main reasons that ice maker quits: door sensors stop working; ice maker, or it control system, stop working, or the coil controlling when water is released into the ice maker stops working. It was easy to replace the door senors; repairman replaced the ice maker and control board, which is located in one end of ice maker, but it ended up being the coil or simply a frozen water outlet into the ice maker that stopped the system from from working. The first thing you should do is to make sure that the water outlet into the icemaker is not frozen - use a hair dryer to melt frozen ice in the outlet - don't melt the plastic outlet with high heat. If the system still does not work go to this: look at red sensor on door to the the right. If it blinks twice in a couple of second with a time out and then repeats over and over, close the door on the receiving sensor on the left hand side of the casing and if the red light comes on steady then the sensor is working properly. So, now you have the coil that turns the water on and off or the water maker itself that can be bad. It will be one of these that are at fault, but not both. Call a repairman.