JFFCF72DKL06 Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.

So far haven’t done the repair and probably will give up. This issue is discussed in frequent questions area of your web site. Steve’s video needs to be updated to discuss what to do with end caps that are snapped, rather than screwed, in. Before decided to DIY, I looked at video. Video job is easy. Steve showed it was easy, but video end cap has screws. I figured mine did too and so ordered the part. When placing order, rep. and/ or web site should point out issue as now that look at item on line can see no screw holes. As your instructions note for my issue, if can pry old unit off, challenge is to recall where everything that drops out goes when replacing. Because I’m stubborn, will probably try one more time, but likely will fail to swap out old for new end cap. Warning: screwless end cap replacement is not easy.

Remove the crisper baskets, Hinged lid, Glass shelves, support bars, and to make it easier - the door bins.
There are no screws on the end caps for this model of fridge, unlike some YouTube videos you might see.
There's a release catch nearly in the middle of the cap. With your index finger, press down on the tab, to release the catch, while lifting the front of the end cap. The end cap should lift up and away from the side wall of your fridge.
Be careful to then rotate the entire assembly - in the case of the right side end cap - towards you, so that you can disengage the tab on the crisper drawer temp controller, that fits in the back wall of the fridge.
Once you've unhooked the control rods to the crisper temp. control, you'll need to remove the crisper drawer runners.
Again - on this model, there are no screws. The runners just slide out from underneath their retaining plastic tabs. Slide them towards what would be the front of the fringe if they were in their natural position, they clear the retaining tabs and become free.
The control rods need to be re-attached on the new end cap.. just take your time click it between the various plastic tab.
Then insert the end tab of the crisper temp control in the back wall, rotate the entire assembly 90 degrees, so the end cap is aligned with the slide wall, and lower it into position until the retailing clip clicks into position. Congratulations, you've replaced your right side end cap!
Then reinstall all the supports, shelves, bins etc. and you're good to go.
Good Luck!

Popping out the broken switch was easy once I was able to see how the new switch part was engineered. The switch was made to be replaced, having a simple tension hook on the bottom of the switch which needed to be depressed to pull the switch out of the cabinet. Once pulled out, there were modular plugs for the power line that were easy to pull off the broken switch and plug into the new switch. Pop the new switch back in and VOILA, the lights worked again! Thanks to part select's good diagrams of the actual model of my refrigerator, it was very easy to hone in on the exact part I needed. I did notice one problem with the order as the correct series for the part was displayed earlier in the process, but had the wrong series later in the process. However,. I trusted the system and the part is for the right series and fit well (an exact match, down to the color). Thanks Part Select, I would definitely use you again.

Removed pantry drawer and both crispers. Removed glass shelf. Removed both support bars. Using my thumb, pressed into the square openings in pantry cap. That snaps the cap loose from side of the fridge. Removed l-shaped assembly from fridge. Photographed the assembly with my phone camera so I could reconstruct the assembly. It is very complicated reassembling these parts. Reassembled these parts onto replacement part. Inserted tabs on cap assembly into slots in side and back of appliance. Replaced support bars, glass shelf, crispers, and pantry drawer in that order. Slid pantry lid onto plastic prongs at either end of the drawer. If new prong is too long, slice tiny section off with serrated knife and slide lid back into place. Job well done!

Very simple. Matched female plugs with respective male color coded prong; pushed together then inserted unit in slot of freezer sidewall and rotated into position...job done.

Received the union I ordered, then discovered that the tubes were different sizes, so I had the wrong part. I had read elsewhere that it was necessary to trim the two ends of the tubes with a box cutter to stop the leaks - I did this, and the leaking stopped. I was then able to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/16 to 1/4 union and replace it. The leaking is stopped, and the water supply in the door is now working like new. No problem with partselect, but I did buy a caliper so that I can check tube diameters if I ever have a similar problem! This is a great site to find instructions - well worth the time to search!

first pressed in two bottom corners then used fingers to press in bottom section,pressed in two top corners then pressed in both sides using fingers followed by pressing in top section using fingers.VERY EASY !

followed the instructions provided and that's it!

The other instructions and the video provided by Parts Direct are pretty good with instructions, but they omit two steps. First, if you have an ice maker, you will need to unplug the connector on the back side of the panel you remove at the back of the refrigerator to access the drain tube. Just unplug it and you can move the removed panel to the side without disconnecting any of the water lines. Second, the instructions say to just reconnect the "bottom end" of the new p-trap drain to the drain pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. They don't tell you there are two places to connect the new p-trap to the drain pan. The original tube/trough connected to the one at the back of the drain pan on the left (viewed from the rear of the refrigerator). At first, it looks like the new p-trap won't reach to it for the connection, but if you look closer, there is another connector to the right of the original one that the p-trap connects to properly. Replacing the drain trough with the new p-trap was actually pretty easy and would only take about a half hour. Add another half hour to give the refrigerator coils a good cleaning as they will need it now that you can reach them. The real time consumer, 3 to 4 hours, is needed to use a hair dryer to melt and clear the ice from the condenser at the back of the freezer so the water can drain. Just take your time and all the ice will eventually melt and drain out so the new p-trap will work properly.

First I removed the six screws from the cover. I then disconnected the two wires and pulled the small motor out with its base and removed two screws that hold it in place. I then changed the old one for the new one and set it back in its place. I then set the cover back and turned it on. I was happy again.

You need to remove both humidifier drawers plus the glass shelf for the bottom of the humidifier drawers and the bar at the front as a start. If I had known this before starting it would have sped up the install time. Then, pull out the deli drawer.

To remove the end cap (either side) there is a plastic tab to push down on just over halfway back and then you can slide up the front of the end cap. Once you have slid up the front of the end cap a few inches, (past the channel it is locked into), you can pull it forward. You can observe the configuration on the spare part to see how this needs to be done.

To install the new end cap, reverse this process. The trickiest part is then re-inserting the deli drawer and the lid. Getting the lid onto the two axles was a bit of a struggle as the fit is very tight. Re-installing the humidifier parts is much easier. My repair time included using the opportunity to clean all of the removed drawers and shelves. If you know about the need to remove the humidifier drawers ahead of time and eliminate the cleaning I think this would take less than 15 minutes.

I called the installer of my filter unit and he told me that often, thhe fridge filter is the problem. Like magic it worked

Unplug the fridge then wheel the refrigerator out to where you can get to the back - you will probably have to disconnect the ice maker water hose. Using the nut driver remove all the screws from the lower panel on the fridge. You will not have to remove the water hose connection just move the panel around a little. Look on the left side (facing the back of the fridge) you will see the capacitor held onto the compressor with a spring clip. Just pull the clip toward you and that will free the capacitor. Pull up on the capacitor and that will unplug it from the compressor. Be careful not to touch the two poles on the old capacitor. Capacitors store electricity and it could give you a jolt. I used electrical tape to insulate the poles and then threw it away. Plug in the new capacitor- re-hook the clip, reinstall the back panel, plug it in and verify that the fridge is working. Hook your water hose back up and move it back into place and you are done.