CSX25DPBAAA Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

The internal water line was leaking. I could not find any repair parts for my refrigerator but the GE 5/16 water line was the same size. I purchased 6' of tubing and two unions. Make sure the clean and square. If possible, make the cuts in a spot where you can use the pliers and wrench to tighten the union. I cut approximately 2' out of the existing line and replaced it with the same length of new line using the 2 unions, one on each end. Took about 5 minutes.

After bagging the ice in the old bin and rinsing out the new bin, I removed 4 screws that held the old ice bin facing/door frame to the old ice bin and the facing came right off. Then I just screwed the facing on the new ice bin, popped the new door into place, and put the new ice bin back into the freezer. Although web descriptions for the parts I ordered referenced GE and other appliance brands and not Kenmore at all, the search engine led me to these parts and everything fit perfectly.

This was a very easy fix. I cut the water lines at the reservoir, coupled the old lines to the new lines with two plastic barbed fittings used for outdoor drip irrigation. All I had to do was pull the old lines out and the new lines followed. Easy as pie!

it was really easy now it works like it did when it was brand new

Cut out cracked tubing between valve and where tubing enters into refrigerator. Cut new tubing to length and attach to existing using union.

you must pay careful attention when taking the dispenser apart,especially the long rod that controls the deflector,but if close attention is payed to disassembly you should have no problem.

removed old auger; replaced it with a stainless steel auger

Removed the screws holding the faceplate. Then couldn't change out the auger so needed to remove all of the other screws in the unit and fully disassemble the icemaker unit. Should have marked the parts as I took them apart as I needed to find a parts diagram on-line to reassemble. Not sure that I put them back together right as the unit will not dispense whole ice cubes as it did previously.

1. Turned off the water supply to the refrigerator.
2. Removed the front panel and disconnected the water line to the front left.
3. Removed the left rear (freezer side) panel and disconnected the reservoir from the main water supply input. This was a little tricky to figure out. You must push in the water line at the same time pushing in the coupling. Then pull the line out while keeping the coupling pressed in.
4. Removed the screw that holds the reservoir to the back of the refrigerator.
5. Pulled the old reservoir out and replaced it with the new one.
6. Basically the rest is the reverse of the above. It took a little bit to fish the lines through the original path they came.

Overall this was an easy repair. If I had known how the coupling in step 3 worked this would have been a 15-minute project.

After inspection of the new door recess assembly, I realized that I could use sidecutters (electronic assembly type) and 'clip' off the inward lock tabs of the old recess assembly and disengage it from the crank door arm without any further disassembly of the refrigerator door. It was easy to 'unhitch' the tang from the crank arm and wiggle it out through the external opening of the ice/water dispenser compartment. I reversed the process and inserted the new assembly through the external opening of the compartment. The new door recess assembly snapped into place on the crank arm and fit tightly against the ice chute opening, correcting the issue caused by aging distortion of the old rubber seal cup portion of the door recess assembly.

Pull out the old, dump the nasty ice. Remove 4 screws attached to the front cover. throw in trash, replace with new auger assembly, with 4 screws. Put it back in ice maker and let it make ice. Easy, cheap and never left the house to searc for the right part, found it on the front porch.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

Did not do the repair because the unit arrived damaged. The packaging was in good condition. The plastic around the plug in shattered, and some of the plastic was inside the motor. Very good, and fast on adjusting the order.

Disassembled ice-maker, noting what screws went where, what direction ice release control arm pointed, and noting how the control arm spring was mounted. The door assembly comes off first followed by the circular assembly that houses the ice door and last grinding arms. It is quite easy see how it comes apart as you look at the screws. Remove the screw holding the back end of the control arm and note the spring position. The control arm needs to be turned to line up notches to pull it thru a faceplate hole while rotating the arm about the "U" that is on the outside of the faceplate in the door housing. There is a retaining clip holding the rotating impeller to remove to complete the dis-assembly. Use vinegar to clean rust out of bin and other parts around the faceplate. Assemble the unit in the reverse order to complete the job.

Removed the Ice Maker container. Removed the one screw that held the remnant of the old light shield. Placed the new light shield in place and installed the screw. 5 Minutes from start to finish.