CTF17CFG Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

I ordered four leveling jacks from this site for the refrigerator using a slightly different model number (my model was not listed). I assumed that the jacks all had the same shaft diameter and thread size. However, it turned out that the two front jacks had half-inch shaft diameters. It could be that originally there were rollers in front. The two rear jacks had quarter-inch shafts with "feet" for supporting them on the floor. So, I had to return the four jacks I had ordered and find another solution. I found two half-inch threaded bolts at the local hardware store that fit the front holes perfectly. I purchased 3.5 inch bolts to give me enough room to find the proper adjustment. I used wooden blocks and a crow bar to raise one side of the refrigerator high enough to screw in the leveling jacks. I used an adjustable crescent wrench to turn the bolts' hex heads until they were the proper height. I used the two original quarter-inch jacks in the rear holes and adjusted them to the proper height to level the refrigerator on the concrete floor where it is located. Then I removed the wooden blocks and tested to make sure the refrigerator did not wobble. I found that using the two bolts (no leveling jacks for the front holes could be found) for the front jacks proved to be the ideal solution. The job took me about thirty minutes, including the time it took to move the refrigerator into its final location and adjust the leveling jacks once more to create a solid stance so that the refrigerator did not wobble. While I had the refrigerator away from the wall, I removed the rear panel and cleaned the blades of the cooler fan and removed dust and dirt build up near the compressor with a vacuum cleaner. Then, I screwed the panel back into position, moved the refrigerator into its final place in a corner of the garage and made sure there was enough air space around it to allow for proper air circulation. This took me about twenty more minutes. I plugged it back in and listened to it come alive again. It is old but has never needed a repair and keeps everything cooled or frozen. I would suggest using threaded hex-head bolts in place of original leveling jacks if they cannot be obtained. Problem solved.

Pulled the two wires out from the access hole in the lower part of the refrigerator. Put them in the spade connectors on the new switch, and pushed the switch into place.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Just as your video described, although due to the age of the fridge, it took a bit longer to remove the defective switch. Your video made this so simple, I can't imagine why we lived with a dark fridge for so long! I was ready to buy a whole new fridge, as repairmen are often nonexistent for small repairs. I am the biggest fan of your company & it's repair video. THANK YOU SO MUCH

Could not have been easier. Trick was finding the part for a refrigerator this old, probably more than 20 years.
1. Removed crisper bin. Removed broken cover.
2. New cover dropped right into place. Replaced bin. Everything fit.

Started new gasket soaking in very hot water before removing the old gasket. By the time we were ready to install the new gasket it had mostly regained it's proper shape. New gasket install went smoothly, other than a few of the original clips broke when removing the old gasket.

Wish you gave actual outside measurements of the gaskets so that you don't have to guess the dimensions of ones that are shown overlapping.

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

Naturally you have to push the frig from the wall and unplug it form the wall outlet and while you are removing and installing the old motor and installing the new motor. Do not open any of the frig and freezer door untill you are finished and you plug the power cord back into the wall outlet. Remove the lower back panel with a screw driver or a 5/16th hex driver. It is a kind of carboard. Once all the screws are out of that panel pull the top out from behind the steel above and then pull it out from the bottom and set it aside. Unplug the power line off of the motor. There are 3 separate brakets holding the motor in place. 1st remove the fan from the motor by romving the finger nut off the motor shaft and then remove the 1st bracket screw from the bracket all the way. Then use a light to see the other 2 screws and you will see that you do not have to take them all the way out like the first one. Just loosen the other 2 and then turn the motor and brackets counter clockwise and then pull the motor and brackets all out as one from the right hand side of where the brackets were mounted. I took the motor and brackets to the counter and removed te brackets from the motor and installed them to the new motor making sure that the bracket with the one screw hole in it is mounted at the right place so that when you reenstall the motor and brackets will let the motor wire connector be the closest to the outside where you can replug the power cord back onto the motor. Install the fan onto the new motor with the new finger nut that comes with the new motor. replace the back panel and pkug in the power cord fot the frig and let it run. Mine ran a lot quieter after the new motor was plugged in. Have fun if you have to do it. It is worth it.

Defrost timer is hidden in the control panel in the refrigerator top middle. Turn to off and remove two screws which are hidden behind white tabs. I had to pry the old timer from the plug with a screw driver because it was tight. Try not to short across the terminals. Plug in the new timer. Replace it in the clip where you got old one and reinstall the controls. The freezer was still all frosted up so I had to remove the cover and defrost it with a hair dryer to get it to work. Then I turned it on and it works great.

removed the inside fridge electrical panel and swapped switches

1) This is a built-in refrigerator with the compressor, coils, etc. at the top. Turn off the breaker to the fridge. 2) Remove the front panel off the top (just push up and pull out). 3) Removed 2 screws to the old timer and carefully remove the plug. Plug the new timer in and screw in. 4) Since our fridge was heavily frosted up, we moved everything to another refrigerator and coolers and kept the refrigerator off until all panels were room temperature. 5) If you haven't cleaned the coil in a while, vacuum it with a soft brush attachment. 6) Turned back on and the refrigerator is cooler than ever!

easy pry out, disconnect wiring, connect on new switch and press in switch.

I opened the refrigerator door, slid the new crisper tray in and I was "in business! You are awesome! The refrigerator is 31 years old and I gave up trying to find parts in Seattle and decided to check on the internet.Thank you. It was all so easy!

I started removing the switch by prying on the right side with a screwdriver, when it emerged enough I used pliers to finish removing it. I then unpluged rhe wires from the bad switch and pluged them on the new switch and "poped" it into the hole.

Connected the 2 wires and pushed in the switch until it clicked.