CSX20BABGWH Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

Shut off water and disconnected at factory joint at bottom hinge. Unplugged the electrical at the top hinge. Removed the door and installed new bottom hinge and cam assembly. Reinstalled the door and hooked water and electric back up. Part worked fine.

I supported door with 2* 6 scrap wood. I used cedar shingles to raise door to correct height.
Using a socket wrench, I removed the hinge from the fridge and the cam assembly from the door.
I installed the new hinge and cam using the shims thatwere behind the original parts.
I removed the 2*6 supports and the door now works perfectly.

Empty veggy drawer. And slide out top glass shelf of drawer. Using philips screwdriver, remove (2) screws that hold rail to side wall of fridge. Replace with new slide . Slide glass shelf back in and then veggy drawer. 15 - 20 Minutes tops to fix. Tell wife if drawer doesent shut don't force it closed! (Overload it)

1) Unplug Refrigerator. Remove all shelves and light shield in the freezer.
2)Remove panel covering refrigeration coils inside freezer in back. Two hex head screws w/nut driver.
3)Remove the defrost heater using phillips screw driver. Two screws.
4)Unplug two quick disconnect stakons and wires from heater.
5)Plug the wire coming down the right side into one side of the new heater and plug the shipped white wire into the other quick disconnect spade at the heater.
6)Install the new dual element defrost heater into the same place where the old was. Connections to the right.
7)Route the wire that was on the left across the top of the coils and down the right side.
8)Bring the existing wire from the left side down the right side and the white wire up the right side. Wires should not be tight at all and do not remove the tape at the stakon.
9)Now wires need to be cut (if necessary)and crimped together in the shipped stakon. This stakon looks like a wire nut.
10)Wires should be tucked gently into the styrofoam up and down the right side. Wirenut should be positioned so that water can not collect in it.
11)Replace the panel over the cooling coils.
12)Plug Refigerator back into the wall outlet. Put shelves and light shield back in.
13)My refrigerator is now working without a problem. It's been est two weeks.
Ice maker is also working correctly.

Removed old hinge assembly, bolted on new assembly-door shut like new

Unplug the fridge, then:
1) Remove food and shelves from freezer
2) Remove rear panel from inside freezer (panel that covers the evaporator coils)
3)Stare at all the ice covering the coils for 10 seconds!
4) Plug the drain hole in the bottom left side of the freezer (cork or plug made from rolled up paper towel), and place a big towel in the bottom of the freezer compartment to absorb the melting ice
5) Plug in a table fan and leave it blowing into the freezer compartment, at the iced-over coils. Come back in 30 minutes.
6) Ice should be all melted. Place the wet towel in a bucket.
7) Remove the little clip attached to the green wire from the top of the panel., and then remove the two top screws on either side of the panel covering the coils. Take out the panel.
8) Removed the two screws that hold the heater element in place at the bottom of the coils. Pull the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
9) Connect the wires to the new heater element, and screw it back into place. Put panel back, shelves in, turn fridge on. Fixed

I ordered the defrost heater and replaced that, also ordered the defrost thermostat but the old one looked fine so I did not replace that. Fridge and freezer have been working great, no more icing problems.

Thank You PartSelect!

First I propped up the door. Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the hinge on. AT this point you do need someone else because the door swings loose. I attached the new bracket and lowered the door. It went verey smooth. I ordered the new bracket after reading the installation stories from others who just repaced the plastic pieces. Its worth the extra money to just put on a new bracket

First I disconnected the Power from the unit. Pulled out the freezer drawers and the ice machine used a 1/4 inch nut driver and removed the sheet metal from the back of the freezer exposing the evaporator coils. I defrosted the coils. Then I removed the two screws holding the defrost heater braket assembly and removed the two electrical connections from it. I then installed the new heater put everything back together(reverse of installation)and it works like a brand new fridge and freezer.

I removed all of the items in the refrigerator door. I then removed the top hinge cover with a Philips screwdriver, and removed the two machine screws holding the top hinge using a socket wrench. This allowed me to lift the door off the bottom hinge pins and set the door on its side. I removed the two screws holding on the broken bottom hinge cam riser block and replace it with the new one. After tighening it back with a socket wrench, I tried to put the door back in place. I asked my wife to hold the door steady while I lay on the floor to guide the door downward over the bottom hinge pin. I then replaced the top hinge screws and checked the door. It still didn't close on its own! I realized I had to loosen the top hinge screws and adjust the door so that it stands more vertically (evening the gap with the freezer door). With this adjustment, the door closes fine.

. i found this site that has a diagram of the refrigerator was able to get the right parts. it was just a matter of removeing two screws and installing the new rails. very easy

Great Service! Received the part the NEXT DAY!

We originally called a service technician. He came the next day and said the mother board was no good. He order a new one and replaced it a week later. Total part & labor cost: $185.00 (Remember we're without a working refrigerator the whole time the part is on order)
Two days later the freezer is doing the same thing. We call the tech again and he seems confused and says it could be the heating element, he'll order one at no charge and replace it for us free. He never comes back with the part and does not answer our 2 dozen phone calls. I checked the element myself and saw that the tube had been scorched, like a burnt out light bulb. Searched for parts on internet and found this great site. "Partselect.com"
REPAIR:
Refrigerator had been unplugged for a few days to defrost ice build up in freezer. First, I removed the shelves from freezer compartment, removed the back panel and removed screws holding heater element in place, I unplugged the two electrical leads and plugged in new part. AS EASY AS THAT !!!!! I reinstalled the screws to hold the element, installed the back panel and replaced the freezer shelves. I plugged the refrigerator back in and within hours the freezer started making ice again. It's been about 3 weeks and we have not had a problem since.
Fantastic Service and instructions and Inexpensive !!!! I will use this site again, if needed, and will recommemd to anyone who needs parts.

After removing the 4 screws from the inside back panel of the freezer and setting a small heater with fan, on a small metal step ladder for about twenty minutes to defrost the freezer coils, it was a snap to remove the two small screws holding the burned out heater harness defrost assembly, and unplugging the wire harnesses to replace the burnt unit with a new one. Actual hands on time was about 5 minutes. Difficulty level, well... my wife did it and she is not mechanically inclined.

I bought the GE Refrigerator about 4 years ago for about $1500. The defrost Heater failed about one year ago. Then I called local repair guy, he replaced the Defrost Heater and charged me about $250. Now it happened again. I think we should try it to fix it by myself. I found the parts from partselect.com, it costs me $50 with 2-3 days shipping. After it replaced, it works fine again.

Note: Symtom: cannot make cool air, Frozen area with frost on the wall. Regeriator "leaking water" on floor since iced food started to melt...

Solution: open the cover of the wall inside of frozen zone, use hot water to defrost it gradually. removed the failed Defrost Heater and replaced it with new one.

Note: after you defrost the area inside of the wall, your refrigerator will work normally without the Defrost heater without any issue about week while you are waiting for the parts coming.

I propped up the door with 2x4 and shims to be level with the freezer door. Then removed the 2 screws holding the hinge to the main unit. Then removed the 2 screws holding the cam washer to the door.
Replacement was the reverse of disassembly. Be sure to tighten screws almost tight until both pieces are located correctly then fully tighten. Lift up refrigerator door slightly to remove shims and wood block.
I did the replacement myself but was nervous that the door would fall off the block and shims. I recommend having another person hold the door closed during the process.

Removed door contents to lower weight (good time to clean/disinfect door compartments), blocked and shimmed door up to correct fininished height. Removed lower hinge components (make sure shims positions are noted). Replaced w/new components and removed blocking. Easy job, should have done sooner.