CTG21GABGRWW Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.

Removed the back cover of freezer to acess the coil. Turned the timer to defrost and checked the voltage across the heater. Didn't have any. Stayed on the common side of heater and measured on both sides of thermostat and one side didn't have any voltage. Shorted the thermostat wires together and heater started working.

Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.

While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope

Would have been an easy job but the bottom channel of the refrigerator door that the gasket snaps into was rusty and had to be cleaned out with a screw driver. Took some working with it to figure out why it wasn't snapping in hence the long time to fix it.

The freezer door gasket went much better. It had been folded for shipping and had to be heated per the instruction to ensure a seal. That was easier than I expected it to be.

The seal seems fine now. No moisture. I wish I had done this sooner!

The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.

Removed screws (4 total) that hold everything together. Removed broken pieces; slipped two new side pieces in place, replaced the screws; put entire frame into place, glass shelf on top, drawers in place: Done!!

as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.

10 minutes total.

first started with the bottom corner then went across the bottom and proceeded to go around the refrigerator. this made it hard to get the last corner in the track. I redid it by getting all four corners set in the track then worked on pushing the sides of the gasket in. This worked much better.

Very easy. Removed all the parts from the fridge. Removed the glass. Unscrewed the two screws holding the rails to the front and rear support. The front support that has the "fruit" and veggie" settings, you have to remove the plastic name cover off to expose the front screws. The install is the reverse of the removal. The only "tricky" part is remembering the configuration (left from right) and removing the vinyl edging that the glass rests on from the old left and right rails and placing it on the new rails. Good Luck to all! "Quality is not an act, it is a habit" - Aristotle

Unplugged frige, removed top shelf, pulled broken fan blade off. Replaced with fan blade just purchased from PartSelect. Very simple repair. Orderd and recieved the right part.

first I removed the old inside shelf, very easy and then replaced with new inside shelf retainer and end caps, which all lock into each other and make the process quick and easy.

I had to figure out how to remove the old gasket and install the new one on my own since there were NO INSTRUCTIONS. The old gasket had to be cut off; the new one had to be warmed in hot water to make it flexible enough to flatten out. Once that was done, I had to trim excess plastic from the inside corners before the gasket would press into place at the corners.

This was much easier than I anticipated.
The most time doing the repair was waiting for the water to soften the new seal.
The old one pulled right out, she cleaned it off and I pushed the other into place.
Part select got it to me quicker than expected and when I phoned the order in and inquired about whether I needed the retainer behind it she asked someone and found I did not which saved me $16.
They are great and this whole transaction went too smooth...

Found the part I needed in only a few minutes on the website and ordered it in less than 5 minutes. The part came within 2 days and I simply removed 2 screwes from the old part and installed the new part and replaced the 2 screws , the easiest repair job that I have ever done in my home. Thanks