Models > CTG21GABGRWW

CTG21GABGRWW Hotpoint Refrigerator

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Diagrams for CTG21GABGRWW

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This genuine OEM part is an end cap for the retainer bar on your fridge or freezer door. The retainer bar is used to keep items secure on the door shelves. The cap can be used for either the left- or ...
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The light switch in your refrigerator is used to turn the light on and off when the fridge door opens or closes. This is considered a closed switch, which means that when the fridge door depresses the...
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This is a package of twelve Phillips-head screws. They can be used as replacement screws in refrigerators, ice makers, or freezers. Be sure to check that your appliance model is compatible with these ...
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This is the replacement vegetable drawer side rail for the left side of your refrigerator. It is made of white plastic and is approximately 18 inches long, and 6 inches wide. The slide rail supports t...
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$8.06
Sold Individually.
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This white fresh food door gasket used to seal the refrigerator door when closed.
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This is a cut-to-fit door shelf retainer bar.
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This slide cover or slide rail is a genuine OEM replacement part for your refrigerator. This part is made of white plastic. To install it, simply remove the glass shelf, remove the current slide rail ...
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This is a replacement pack of sheet metal screws for your refrigerator. These are Phillips-head screws, and are approximately ¾ of an inch long. This package contains 12 screws. These screws are typic...
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Common Problems and Symptoms for CTG21GABGRWW

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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Noisy
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Door Sweating
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Leaking
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Freezer not defrosting
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Fridge runs too long
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Customer:
Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
Parts Used:
WR23X10725
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
116 of 144 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
David from Greenfield, IN
Parts Used:
WR50X10010
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
freezer coil frozen solid
Removed the back cover of freezer to acess the coil. Turned the timer to defrost and checked the voltage across the heater. Didn't have any. Stayed on the common side of heater and measured on both sides of thermostat and one side didn't have any voltage. Shorted the thermostat wires together and heater started working.
28 of 45 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer:
Jania from Novato, CA
Parts Used:
WR23X10725
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
The refrigirator light would not come on.
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.
24 of 38 people found this instruction helpful.
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