HTG22CBMARWW Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

Ironically I did this today, as this email request came up asking how it went. I'm not a repairman, I'm a software engineer, and I can't thank this site enough for the step by step videos. With the video to help, this was a breeze, I was nervous as I had to empty all my freezer out onto the living room floor. Once that was done the repair took about 30 minutes. Thank you partselect!!!!! My second time doing business here, and I'll be coming back (well, if something breaks, so let's hope I don't have to).

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.

Followed the repair video, was spot on!!

luckly i have a bit of experience in refrigeration im an hvac technician by trade. this repair was a bit tricky in that i did not know at first if it was a Temperature Sensor issue or the main control board. I had tested the defrost termination thermostat and the defrost heater and as i suspected they were ok. Next i wanted to test the thermistors (temp sensors) it is hard to find technical data on these fridges. I needed to test the thermistors resistance @ a certian temperature to ensure they were working properly but where do u get such data? I also wanted to know some information about the logic programmed into the board (i.e when do you initiate defrost etc. . .). I had no such luck so i figured since i tested the defrost heater and thermostat and they were ok and all of the evap fans and such were working i'd order a circuit board and new thermistors. Got the CORRECT PARTS from this site in 2 business days and my fridge is working great! changing the parts was really easy, figuring out which parts to change was the only difficult thing about this job.

Removed back panel,removed ice maker.And you can see the two wires colors are a snap to identify cut the two wires spliced the new one in done deal!

Emptied Freezer (to get access to panel covering condensor coils and Defrost Thermostat). Pulled off cover panesl. Had to wait for ice to clear from condensor. Replaced Defrost Thermostat (5 min job), replaced panels and was back in business.

Part select was great. I entered the model number and was able to locate a list of problems associated with my refrigerator. I was able to view a repair video, courtesy of part select. I followed the instructions and the repair was simple. The hard part was trying to remember how everything went back together. I unplugged the unit and removed the freezer racks. I then unscrewed the back panel within the unit. I then placed an old towel inside the unit and used a hair dryer to melt the ice build up inside. I also removed the light bulb and then removed ice maker. I then located the old defrost thermostat and replaced it as demonstrated in the video. I then located temp sensor and replaced it. It took longer trying to secure the rear panels than the actual repair. My mistake was I had secured the ice maker unit before securing the fan panel. I would secure the large panel first, then followed by the light bulb/fan panel. The ice maker should go in last. It has been 8 days since the repair and it still working! The total cost was $27.

Very limited working space in this model. Must remove grill and disconnect elect connector on motor. One additiional tool suggested: Extendable rod with magnet on end because you will most likely drop something. First, remove two screws holding motor to metal strap. Tool must be inserted between blades of fan in order to get to the screws and this is the hard part. Fan and motor are removed as one assy and this takes some manuvering. Might have to remove front screw on metal strap to gain more room. I did not attempt to remove fan shroud. My fan was attached to the motor shaft with a metal clip. Spray a good lubricant such as PB Blaster on the shaft, wait a few minutes and press it or tap it out gently. Save misc parts on old motor for reassembly. Your set up may be different so check out everything before starting.

removed evaporator coil cover inside freezer, defrosted the coil with blow dryer, cut wires to defrost thermostat, removed old defrost thermostat, wired new one to old wires with wire nuts and then taped with black electrical tape, reattached defrost thremostat to evaporator coil, easy job, the thing that took the longest was thawing out all the ice

Replaced the Defrost Thermostat and the Defrost Heater.

I watched the video then ordered the defrost timer it was here in two days (ordered late saturday arrived tuesday). Spent $. 16 On two wire nuts and went to work . The repair took one hour including defrosting the coils with a hair dryer . Your website is my " go too " for parts and repair. I spent less than $20 including shipping !

According to PartSelect website, the probably cause was Temperature Sensor or Defrost Thermostat. I watched the replacement videos. . .. very nice and seemed easy. Ordered the parts and got within 3 days (nice!). I followed the procedure on the video for disassembly, I used a hair dryer to melt the ice buildup on coils and then cut the old Sensor and Thermostat out of the wire harness and, instead of using crimper to seal my new splices, I soldered them instead. I used shrink wrap sleeves, then wrapped in electrical tape for permanent insulation. My Fridge now functions like new again.Thanks Partselect! You are the best!

Followed the video instructions with the help of a young man who worked on trailer hitches before and knew how to splice wires. Beware of splicing the wrong fan motor back into the assembly. . . . That happened here and we had to start the splicing all over again with the correct fan motor.

I followed the video provided by PartSelect, very helpful. I had to cut and splice 4 wires. The repair was successful. The replacement part was an exact duplicate of the original. I still notice the same sound but one tenth the volume. I hope the problem does not return. Many thanks to PartSelect for information to identify the problem and prompt shipping of the repair part.

First, I had to remove the freezer drawer front. This is 8 large phillips head screws. then remove the plastic cover over the drawer slides. to do this, remove the white center screw from the slide near where it attaches to the drawer front. then the plastic cover will slide off pushing to the rear of the slide. take off the slides from the freezer walls by removing the phillips screws and pulling them towards you. They have tabs/slots in the rear. remove the center tray support and support bars, too. the icemaker has to come out, that is just 2 phillips screws but you also have to disconnect the electrical connector. just squeeze the locking wings and rock/pull. a screw in the top center of the back panel comes out. Lift and pull the back panel out. The evaporator coil appears. The thermocouple is attached to the coil in the upper right. Cut that one's wires and take it out. Just cut back about an inch from the back of the thermocouple, there is not much slack. Seperate and strip the wires back about 3/8 inch. Do the same for the new thermocouple. I twisted the wires together and used a solder sleeve to join the wires. The sleeve is just a little plastic tube that has a ring of solder in it that melts with heat gun heat. You can join the wires using butt connectors or whatever method appeals to you. I just wound the extra wire and put a cable tie around it, there is plenty of hiding space in that area. Make sure the new thermocouple is contacting the coil firmly.At this point, for a test, I left everything apart, propped the drawer against the opening and plugged the fridge in. Note that the evaporator fan will not start spinning immediately! It will just sit there making little bumps like it wants to go. The temp in the coil has to get settled before the electronics in the refridge will tell the fan to spin. It takes maybe 20 minutes. Reassemble. Fridge and freezer work great. It does take several hours for all to get cold again.