GRT17G4BW0 Gibson Refrigerator - Instructions

Most of my time was spent removing food items from the shelf that supported the rails. Once that was done, a quick removal of the screw, replace the left support rail and re-installing the screw. Done. I wish all of my repairs were so easy!

Emptied the shelf. Took out the shelf. Screwed in the one screw for the support rail. Put shelf back in. Put drawer back in. Works like a charm.

You tube is my best friend for DIY repair. I supported the door with wood blocks, removed the bottom bracket and was able to slide the refrigerator door down and out without removing the freezer door. Replaced both hinge bearings and door stop and washer on bottom hinge and slid the door back into place. Door is very light when empty. Fast and easy, door opens and closes smoothly and no problem with condensation anymore.

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

Wow. What an easy repair. It was so easy I literally had my 10 year son complete the repair.

(Handyman requirement for Cub scouts).

Removed 1 screw and pulled out old broken guide rail, replaced with new part and screwed it back in.

It took long to wash and clean the shelves we pulled out than it did to make the repair.

easy. took glass tray that held meat draw out. unscrewed old rail screw new one in. put glass try back in frig. put meat try back in.

Looked up similar problems and found it to be the defrost timer. All I had to do was remove the plastic portion in the fridge section to get to the old timer. Popped the new one in and put it back together. Works great now. Would have been almost $150 to have a repair company come out and fix it.

Took one screw out to remove the old rail off by removing one screw placed the new one into the slot and replaced the screw and put the drawer back into the refrigerator

Just had to pop the old pieces out, assemble the new ones, and pop them in. Very easy. Anyone can do it.

Pulled the drawer out, lifted the shelf out of the refrigerator, unscrewed drawer slides from shelf and rescrewed the new drawer slides and returned the shelf, drawer, and the job was finished. Thank you so very much for your speedy delivery.

Removed the screws on the piece holding the switch which is at the front of the ceiling of the refrigerator box. Removed the old switch and replaced it. Very simple repair.

First removed existing damaged shelf retainer bar and end caps from freezer door. Next cut down new oversized retainer bar to size with hack saw. Then slightly opened up doubled over metal at each end of retainer bar with pliers and screw driver in order to create the small "nicks" that are needed to house the "bumps" that secure the retainer bar to end caps. Used tin snips for this. Next inserted new end caps and used pliers to crimp secure. Clipped in new assembly in freezer door.

I watched the video on how to change the defrost thermostat. I removed the back cover inside the freezer then I pulled off the old defrost thermostat and then using a pair of wire cutters I cut it off and then bared a little of both of the wires and then slid the heat sherink and wire connectors on the existing wires and then slid the other ends of the wires into the wire connectors then crimped the ends of the connectors and then tried using heat on the heat shrinks but still used rubber electric tape over it. I clipped the new thermostat were the old one was and then reattached the freezer wall cover and plugged the refrigerator back in. 24 hours later I checked the temperature in the refrigerator and freezer and both are running a lot colder.

Screwdriver

First I removed the plastic grill (pulled out, no screws) from bottom of refrigerator, then I removed electrical plug & two screws from old timer (timer located on the front inside left lower side of refrigerator). Installed in reverse order.